Heated washer jet - Wiring Diagram

Hello,

I need to install a heated washer jet to my MK1 Rivage - It's been removed at some point in its life.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this please? 

MrP said

Hello,

I need to install a heated washer jet to my MK1 Rivage - It's been removed at some point in its life.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this please? 

Try rubjonny  

is any of the wiring still in there? not sure where it comes in on a mk1 but id try the scuttle anyway. its simplicity itself to wire, earth to the claw and live to one of the G spades on the fusebox, #2 is factory for most.

hardest part of the install is finding a jet that aint knackered oh! and before you spend any money check the hole in the bonnet will accept the late type jet, it may have had an early bonnet and hence non-heated jet was required…

rubjonny said

is any of the wiring still in there? not sure where it comes in on a mk1 but id try the scuttle anyway. its simplicity itself to wire, earth to the claw and live to one of the G spades on the fusebox, #2 is factory for most.

hardest part of the install is finding a jet that aint knackered oh! and before you spend any money check the hole in the bonnet will accept the late type jet, it may have had an early bonnet and hence non-heated jet was required…

Non of the wiring - I believe it comes in on the upper scuttle panel grommet, behind the TCI unit.

Are the G spades live via the heated rear window? I have a vague feeling that the heated jests should work with the rear window for some reason!

I have a couple of working Jets from a Corrado and all cabling  

the jets are on an ignition live, as the idea is to stop them freezing up in the slipstream when you're driving along I believe?

rubjonny said

the jets are on an ignition live, as the idea is to stop them freezing up in the slipstream when you're driving along I believe?

In that case, easy-peasy! It's only two wires!

Thank you Mr Jonny!  

welcome

Bit of an update. I can't find any spare ignition live plugs on the back of the fuse box at all.

G2 is being used for Ignition live on my head unit.

Ideally, I'd like to have it connected via the rear heated window switch. (it's a summer car only so don't see the point in having it live all the time). Any idea which cable I need to connect it to?

do what VW used to so, crimp a female spade with 2 wires, 1 off to the jets and the other to a male spade, for your accessory electrics to plug into.

you have 4 ignition live spades though, 1, 2, 3 and 5 so one should be free? check fuses 12 and 18 if any of these are dead. with the jets i assume they can ice up even in the summer if you're driving at speed when its cooler, say at night or just because its england

but for the stereo if you want it factory it shouldn't be ignition live at all, it actually should be on a key-in-ignition live from the ignition switch pin S. if you look at the stereo loom see if there is a small brown/red wire, with yours being a late-ish cab it may have had this already. plus its always there if you have an electric hood

rubjonny said

do what VW used to so, crimp a female spade with 2 wires, 1 off to the jets and the other to a male spade, for your accessory electrics to plug into.

you have 4 ignition live spades though, 1, 2, 3 and 5 so one should be free? check fuses 12 and 18 if any of these are dead. with the jets i assume they can ice up even in the summer if you're driving at speed when its cooler, say at night or just because its england

but for the stereo if you want it factory it shouldn't be ignition live at all, it actually should be on a key-in-ignition live from the ignition switch pin S. if you look at the stereo loom see if there is a small brown/red wire, with yours being a late-ish cab it may have had this already. plus its always there if you have an electric hood

Thanks!

Ignition live spades, 1, 2, 3 and 5 are all these on the G block? All mine are used (including the 2 spade for my radio).

If the radio is factory and on the key ignition live, doesn't that mean it'll loose all settings everytime you take the key out?

Would you happen to have any MK1 golf wiring diagrams? I think I'm going to remove my dash and check all the wiring for what it's worth - I know my Radio wiring and roof wiring has been played with, I need to install this heated washer, want to fit OE central locking (have a working kit from a Corrado) and VDO gauges. I'm really funny about wiring so want strip it back, route it properly and tidy it all up.

the key live is just to turn it on and off, instead of your current ignition live feed. you still have the permanent live to keep the settings

I dont have any scanned ones to hand, but if you check my signature link for jetta89.pdf thats pretty close plus theres my fusebox faq:
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?219775

I really need to scan in some haynes diagrams, just not got round to it yet

Ahh,

So instead of an ignition live direct from the fuse box, there should be a key-live direct from the ignition switch? I get you now!

I actually have a MK2 Scirocco Haynes manual - I'm guessing that's pretty similar?

yeah the rocco harness is basically the same except for clocks (2 plug like mk2 golf) rear lights (plugs like late mk1 and mk2, not spades like mk1) plus it has rear wash/wipe which yours wont have

rubjonny said

yeah the rocco harness is basically the same except for clocks (2 plug like mk2 golf) rear lights (plugs like late mk1 and mk2, not spades like mk1) plus it has rear wash/wipe which yours wont have

Ok, I can deal with that. Clocks work perfect, rear lights are fine too!

Only thing now is the roof. Do you have a wiring diagram of the electric roof?  

here you go, note wire from ignition switch pin SU to hood and fusebox K plug, you should have a wire from this to the radio as well g1powerhood.pdf - Google Drive

rubjonny said

here you go, note wire from ignition switch pin SU to hood and fusebox K plug, you should have a wire from this to the radio as well g1powerhood.pdf - Google Drive

Ok, so I've had the dash off to have a look.

My wiring for the hood is nothing like in that link.

My hood switch plug has a black 5 pin plug using all wires:
1 - Brown > Earth
2 - Blue > Goes to the boot, possibly a relay for the hood
3 - Red > Fusebox, P3 (has a aftermarket spade)
4 - Grey/Blue > Fusebox, G8
5 - Green >Goes to the boot, possibly a relay for the hood

All cables look untampered, other than the Red cable which has a aftermarket spade right next to the fusebox.



Now, going to the Brown/Red cables which should go to the K plug.. I have no K plug!

I have a few cut cables behind the dash which have been taped up:
Brown/Red > Fusebox, B14
Brown/Red > Ignition Switch, SU
Grey/Blue > Fusebox, G8
White/Yellow >Fusebox, Single terminal (black spade) not plugged in anywhere
White/Yellow >a clear, 5pin plug which goes on the back of the clocks.

To note, the Brown/Red cable which goes to the ignition switch is NOT key ignition live - It's dead (guessing faulty ignition switch which has prompted the bodge?)


I'm very confused now. Any help appreciated.

dont worry about plug K, its not actually needed unless you have a seatbelt warning relay anyway. looking at it B/14 is connected internally in the fusebox to K/5, so it would perform the same function.

The red wire to P you mention was put there as a bodgearound for the dead SU feed, what it was like originally was the red wire to switch had a spade that plugged into a mating connector on the B/14 wire allowing hood loom to separate from dash harness. you can see that plug housing on the diagram 'T1a'  What it means is your hood can be opened with ignition off and no key in the ignition, which isnt correct. it should only work ignition off, key inserted.

grey/blue is dash illumination, so see if anything doesnt light up and check if it has power, if not chase the grey/blue if it does the bulb has popped. you can see from the diagram G/8 has a spare spade 'T1' hanging off it though, chances are its just that which is missing

white/yellow is vehicle speed sensor for the radio, does nothign unless you have cruise control or expensive VW stereo with speed sensitive volume control

OK, 

Sounds good! 

The grey/blue will be for the stereo plug more than likely (my stereo plug only has an earth and live feed, the rest are chopped). 

The chopped wires are all next to the stereo chopped wires so makes sense. 

The speed sensor wire presumbly were connected up to the stereo too (my stereo loom has a blue/white so presumbly from a later VW).

So, the brown/red is left.. 

Ill get a new ignition switch fitted, then connect the cut wires to each other and also to the stereo for the ignition live. 

But Im a little confused about the red wire from the roof switch. Does this just need splicing onto the brown/red near the B14 plug? Surely this means the roof will now work with ignition on? 

aye stereo should have a dash lighting feed, its normally piggybacked out the ciggy lighter power 3 pin plug behind the dash

yeah the later cars always had the speed signal wire, to the stereo plug, regardless of what stereo was fitted. plus there was the spade at the fusebox for cruise, again there even if not fitted

with the red/brown you may find there are 2 wires at the switch pin SU, 1 for stereo and other for fusebox/hood. either that or it will split at the fusebox end, or in the spade end. see if there are any lost wires behind the stereo need to plug the switch plug. It may be though it wasnt quite new enough for vw to have wired it up to the stereo. up to you if you bother or not, my thinking was though if you did that would free up the ignition live spade for your heated jets

you can ignore the B/14 pin as it has no function on your car, just run SU to the hood and stereo if you like.  The hood switch red wire wants wiring up to the SU wire, it still wont work with the ignition off though as the relays are also triggered by the grey wire from ignition switch pin P which is only live with the ignition off

rubjonny said

aye stereo should have a dash lighting feed, its normally piggybacked out the ciggy lighter power 3 pin plug behind the dash

Sounds right, I checked continuity and it fed to most of the dash switch illumination feeds as wsell as G8.

rubjonny said

yeah the later cars always had the speed signal wire, to the stereo plug, regardless of what stereo was fitted. plus there was the spade at the fusebox for cruise, again there even if not fitted

Ok, so i'll just reconnect the wire together (if only for my OCD) but it'll be left unused. I run an Alpine headunit so the functionality isn't required.

rubjonny said

with the red/brown you may find there are 2 wires at the switch pin SU, 1 for stereo and other for fusebox/hood. either that or it will split at the fusebox end, or in the spade end. see if there are any lost wires behind the stereo need to plug the switch plug. It may be though it wasnt quite new enough for vw to have wired it up to the stereo. up to you if you bother or not, my thinking was though if you did that would free up the ignition live spade for your heated jets you can ignore the B/14 pin as it has no function on your car, just run SU to the hood and stereo if you like.  The hood switch red wire wants wiring up to the SU wire, it still wont work with the ignition off though as the relays are also triggered by the grey wire from ignition switch pin P which is only live with the ignition off

Ok, My SU pin definitely only has one wire and the wire is untampered around the ignition area. The only place I can see it's been played with is the area behind the headunit.  Even around the B14 pin it looks untampered.

The red wire from the hood switch also looks untampered right up to the fusebox end (it was wrapped in original, crusty loom and only had around 20cm showing, if that).

Also, the red wire is a fairly chunky wire, the SU Brown/Red is a thin wire, should this concern me?

I think I'll connect the SU wire to the Headunit (behind the headunit area), leave the other end connected to the B14 and then I'll splice a spade terminal into the SU wire near the fusebox end to clip the Red hood wire into.

That'll leave the pin for the heated washer jets.

BUT.. for future proof, I want to fit VDO gauges at some point, won't that require an ignition live?