Electric roof

Hi just bought a 1990 clipper with electric roof which unfortunately doesn't work. A list of things I've done is
1 I have power to switch
2 I have power to the main relay in boot
3 I have no power at last connection to pump
4 I have connected pump straight to 12v and it works.
5 fluid level in pump is ok
6 checked continuity of switch which gives a reading so that does seem faulty( no expert though just watched vid on you tube)

would I be right in thinking it's the switch or could it still be something else. When I try the roof there is no noise or no clicking it is just dead.
is there a way of testing switch as don't have replacement it has a 5 pin connection can I connect 2 of them wires together or something like that to see if it works?

glad of any advice and if anyone can recommend where to get a switch would be good…

many thanks

I don't have an electric roof so not 100% sure but are you opening the roof with the engine running or just on the ignition position 2?
Anyone with a electric roof know how to open/close them?

Yes just put key in and didn't turn it. That's when I get power to the switch so I no that part is ok.
 

Well I have one but I doubt know the answer to that, however I might know a man who does.

Over to you rubjonny , John can you help our new Guy Mark out please?
This one sounds right up your street Sir!  

if you jump a wire on the switch plug between the brown/red and the blue and grey wires that should make the roof open and close, if nothing move onto the relays in the boot.

you should see 12v on the grey wire with the ignition off, this comes from the ignition switch pin P (parking lights) permanent live to the red wire which comes in via the fuse, and you should have a brown earth wire which goes to the boot somewhere.

theres a purple wire which goes to the 2 hood cover contact switches, they disable the motor if you have the hood cover fitted (close to ground) so check those out in case one has failed closed

Cheers mate I shall try that one tonight.

also try another live feed into the back of the brown/red pin in case the ign switch isnt supplying enough voltage to run the roof electrics, long shot but worth a try just in case

Now I'm really confused rubjonny? I am only getting 3v at max today off red wire on back of the switch.can we start again a bit confused about jumping wires if I connect red and brown wires isn't that a bad thing?
On the switch I have 5 wires red/brown/blue/green/ and a grey one with blue in it.
Is there a way to test the relays?
The key in ignition is a bit dodgy as well you have to wiggle it and hold it down to get any volts. Can this be bypassed?

Sorry for all questions and thanks in advance

sorry i meant the brown/red wire, as in brown with red stripe, this is the key-in-ignition live feed to the switch from the ignition switch pin SU.

if its red it may just be a slight deviation in the loom when built, you do see this sometimes or its been replaced at some point, but regardless 3v is too low you should see 12v so if you can find another 12v feed push it into the back of the switch pin temp to see if that helps.

grey/blue is switch illumination, brown is earth for switch illumination. then the brown/red is the power input, grey and blue are power outputs to the roof relays. if you jump a wire between the brown/red and the grey and blue wires see if the roof moves, if it does this tells you if the switch is to blame, if not then its the power feed to the switch, something at the relay end or possibly the blue or grey wires are damaged somewhere

if the key-in-ignition is bad you can tap it to another feed, it'll have to be either permanent live or to the P wire from ignition switch unless you also tap a feed to the P pin as obv ignition live wont work since P goes dead as soon as ignition is switched on.

any yes, in general jumping a red wire to brown is a Very Bad thing to do so you were right to query

In simple terms connect red live and the other two wires together see if that moves hood if not put a 12v live straight to back of live switch and if that don't work move on to relays. Thanks for advice more than likely be back on tonight to ask for more. Lol

indeedy

Hi sorry for delay been working away I now have a working roof thanks for advice turned out faulty relays and not enough power through ignition to switch. I have now run 12v straight to switch and replaced relays... Once again thanks

Mark, apart from the the fact that it sounds like you have got it sorted, just to add to what johnny said, my roof electrics failed a while back. Intermittent fault which left me in Glasgow City Centre with the roof 'ajar'. I.e. Undrivable. A few wiggles with the key and the ignition plug got the hood back down, but a burnt out ignition switch was the issue. This was changed at the same time as a headlight loom which takes load off the ignition switch and headlight switch. Both known failure points.