Skip navigation

1.1 distributor oil seal replacement

Post

Back to the top
Hi, there seems to be a lot of oil getting into my distributor and leaking into the dizzy cap too, now i'm pretty sure this isn't normal?
i fear it could be the cause of a running problem with the oil getting onto the points etc

is there just the 1 oil seal and also an O-ring in the dizzy and are they easy enough to replace?

also does anyone know the size of these seals?

help appreciated
cheers

'83 formel e

Post

Back to the top
anyone? :)

'83 formel e

Post

Back to the top
theres the seal around the base but it wont stop it getting inside, you may have to strip it down to get at the internal seal. theres a guide on clubgti covering the 16v dizzy strip but i dont know how similar the 1.1 dizzy would be

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

Post

Back to the top
cheers for the reply, i thought so need to replace that internal seal, i think i've found that guide says the 16v seal is 12x19x5?

i guess the only way would be to strip mine and measure it then get one, but I use the car pretty much daily

anyone happen to know the size of this internal seal for a 1.1 dizzy? :P

'83 formel e

Post

Back to the top
i would be around 80% sure the seal would be the same for yours, especially if its a bosch unit. but yeah ideally you need to strip it and measure 1st if you can!

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

Post

Back to the top
okay well i might get one that size incase it is the same as they're only a couple quid, is bosch too although formel e so different dizzy but not sure if that would make a difference to the size.

found a couple on simply bearings guessing it would be best to get the one with the dust protection lip aswell? as opposed to the single sealing lip one

'83 formel e

Post

Back to the top
yeah more lips the better :lol:

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

Post

Back to the top
Please Let me knoe how this goes! I have the same issue with mine, and it fowled the points!

Post

Back to the top
yeah i think it could be interfering with the points on mine too, but at the moment i'm completely stuck on how to get the shaft out of the dizzy to get to the seal, got the drive and washers off the end easily enough, same as 16v dizzy, but the inside is different and the shaft doesn't seem to want to come out :S

anyone done this on a small block dizzy and might know how to get the shaft out?

'83 formel e

Post

Back to the top
:/ big hammer? Haha.
You could always swap the points for electronic ignition, but doesn't really solve the root problem.

Post

Back to the top
maybe look at the trigger wheel, see if there is a circlip holding it on, if there is it'll come off then the shaft comes out the back?

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

Post

Back to the top

r_chez_08 said

:/ big hammer? Haha.
You could always swap the points for electronic ignition, but doesn't really solve the root problem.

i've tried the old big hammer approach but didn't want to knock it too hard :lol:
i would like to swap in electronic ignition and probably will eventually but a bit stuck for money at the mo.

rubjonny said

maybe look at the trigger wheel, see if there is a circlip holding it on, if there is it'll come off then the shaft comes out the back?

sorry by trigger wheel do you mean the cam for the points? there is a clip on that which i've taken off but the cam wont come off so still no luck

i thought maybe i've got to remove the plate that attaches to the vacuum advance and which holds the points on etc first then the shaft will come out but removed the screws and couldn't get that out, maybe i'm just being stupid :lol: so going to try again today :P

'83 formel e

Post

Back to the top
ah sorry im in electronic ignition mode! but yes maybe theres a circlip on the front end, or maybe as you say a lot more gubbins needs to come out first!

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:

VAG Documents & Downloads

You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)

Post

Back to the top
no worries i wish i was too :P
well i think i definitely have to remove the plates to get the shaft out but taken off all the screws and clips i can find and the plates won't budge so might just give up for now and try again another time as i need the car :lol:

been looking at cheaper electronic ignition kits though and found this http://www.simonbbc.com/electronic-ignition-kits/volkswagen-golf-mk1-powerspark-electronic-ignition-kit-jfur4

anyone know if it's any good and would fit fine to my 1.1?

Rob if you have a go at the oil seal on yours let me know how you get on if you manage to do it and how!

cheers

'83 formel e

Post

Back to the top
Sure, will do mate. The cheap electronic ignition modules are meant to be OK. However. Spoke to a few people, they reccomend leaving the points and a screwdriver in the ash tray just in case!

Post

Back to the top
cheers but had a look in my haynes and it says that the plates are crimped into the dizzy body and cannot be removed, so can't dismantle the dizzy any further not sure if this is true or not though you might be able to get them out somehow :P

that's probably quite a good idea :lol:

not sure which is best out of the AccuSpark or Powerspark though? they seem pretty similar

'83 formel e

Post

Back to the top
Heya, took mime to bits finally! I had to drill out the pin holding the can drive on and undo all the cheese head  bolts on the housing. Remove the points and the vac advance and the spring piece with the threads tapped for the rotor arm side bearing piece. This just prises out with a screwdriver. Then tap on the shaft on the can side of it, the whole assembly should come out with a bit of persuasion. My oil seal was hard and brittle! Can't imagine there are many original dizzy's with good seals anymore. Just need to find a seal now!

Post

Back to the top
nice one man :thumbs:

might have to give it another go sometime but got my engine running good now so don't wanna mess it up! found that the ignition timing was way out and turned out whoever last fitted the cam belt or did the cam timing made a hash of it and set it up to the mark for the ignition timing not TDC so the camshaft pulley was a notch out! set it up properly and gave the carb a bit of a tune and she's been running a beaut so far

Simply Bearings Ltd - Ball Bearings, Oil Seals, O-rings, V-Belts, SKF is a good place for seals, so I guess you could just give yours a measure and find the right one on there?

'83 formel e

Post

Back to the top
Sorry to drag up an old thread but I'm now having this problem on my mk1 1.3 Jetta (same as 1.1) got oil coming through the distributor and leaking out of where the dizzy cap goes on. Luckily no misfires yet but it's still not ideal.

Did you fix yours leaking in the end? Was the seal easy to find?

Many thanks.

Shane
 
0 guests and 0 members have just viewed this: None.