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Rear arch lip delete instead of rolling

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Hello fellow enthusiasts,

Currently restoring my mk1 (been going on for a while now..).
Anyways i'm doing the rear arches now, but there is one thing i've been wondering about.. seeing as i havent found anyone asking the same question.
When my car is done i plan to get it down to earth and have the wheels fill the arches really well, but i thought instead of rolling the arches as you would normally do why not just delete the inner lip and seam weld the inner and outer lips together and have a pretty much non-existent flange aswell as keeping the panels strength?
I plan on leaving 1-2mm of the flange on the outer arch and just weld it together with the inner where the ends meet, but my uncertainty brought me here to ask if its really stupid to do this??
I may not delete the lip all the way around, but atleast a good portion of the top, if anyone has any feedback on my idea it would have been great!

Here s a really rough sketch


I hate rust.

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Just trying to get my head around this. I'm not sure you'd be able to do it easily and get a good finish on the lip and maintain rigidity in the general panel area plus if you'd gain much from it? 

There could be a reason no one has done it before? 

Andy

LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/

1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si

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Of you cut it off, you'll have a sharp edge/straight edge but if you roll it (done right) its a gradual roll all the way around the bottom and you can get the inside to fit flush. 

If you do catch with the cut lip you'll do more tyre damage for sure. 

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It can be done  but generally it's only done that way if there's an outer fender being fitted as it hides the arch line if less than perfect.

Best option is to roll the lip. If you need to remove the return lip to gain extra clearance then rather than weld I'd bond the inner/outer lip together with a PU adhesive. No heat related distortion that way.

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Ah okey, thanks for the inputs guys.. think i'm just going to stick to rolling the arches then. Already done one arch on the other side in the normal way, glad i didnt start cutting away on it and redoing that side now :)I guess the only and best way to roll the arches is by using a roller and not going nuts with a hammer or anything else?

I hate rust.

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Read the other day about rolling arches with a baseball bat although I'm not certain how it's done

Andy

LINCOLNSHIRE REGION - https://www.facebook.com/groups/467122313360002/

1983 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign Model - Under (looooong) resto!
1962 Rover P4 80
2002 BMW 745i
2008 BMW Z4 2.5Si

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Be general. Hammer back and weld, minter!

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You can roll arches with a baseball bat or scaff pole but it's a real red neck method and only suitable for the stance scene where they care more about poke than clean lines.

It's done by using the cars wheel to rotate the bat between the arch and roll it back. It needs to be done either with coilovers to allow the correct arch/wheel gap to get the bat in or else with a bat/pole/pipe of suitable dia to fit the existing gap.

You can rent an arch roller for a weekend rather than buy one.
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