ABF wiring issues
Posted
#1383018
(In Topic #181418)
Settling In
Hi,
i have just recently put an abf in my mk1. i understand i need to use the ecu for the abf dizzy. ive tried to just use the specific wires on the ecu ie: coil pin 2, crack position sensor and all earths and ignition lives. but yet to any joy. i was hoping to use the original mk1 coil and originally the tci but then going through the ecu that was redundant. I am planning on running the car on carbs so no worries for injectors and i know the ecu is a demobilised one. Also i know the coil and my mk1 wiring is fine as i drove it in the garage to change the engine. The ABF came out of a mk1 but using the whole engine loom on injection.
I also know the other alternative is a KR dizzy, ABF cap and KR ecu. know the other question is, is everyone using the kr ecu for the advance as obviously there isnt a straight feed to the dizzy for a vacuum advance?
One last thing, i understand the full benefits and downsides to both injection and carbs, also noise but which one is better. i am also aware of induction noise difference, but im just curious as to what people think.
Can anybody help me/ shed some light on what im doing wrong.
All help would be much appreciated
i have just recently put an abf in my mk1. i understand i need to use the ecu for the abf dizzy. ive tried to just use the specific wires on the ecu ie: coil pin 2, crack position sensor and all earths and ignition lives. but yet to any joy. i was hoping to use the original mk1 coil and originally the tci but then going through the ecu that was redundant. I am planning on running the car on carbs so no worries for injectors and i know the ecu is a demobilised one. Also i know the coil and my mk1 wiring is fine as i drove it in the garage to change the engine. The ABF came out of a mk1 but using the whole engine loom on injection.
I also know the other alternative is a KR dizzy, ABF cap and KR ecu. know the other question is, is everyone using the kr ecu for the advance as obviously there isnt a straight feed to the dizzy for a vacuum advance?
One last thing, i understand the full benefits and downsides to both injection and carbs, also noise but which one is better. i am also aware of induction noise difference, but im just curious as to what people think.
Can anybody help me/ shed some light on what im doing wrong.
All help would be much appreciated
Posted
MOTY 2013
if you're runnign it on carbs use kr ecu, loom and dizzy simples. the reason you use the kr ecu is because as you say there is no vacuum advance unit on the abf or kr dizzy so it handles all the advance electronically. you need a mk1/2 tci unit as well, plus a mk2 coil as the kr leads dont fit mk1 coils properly
abf dizzy is no good for kr ecu as it only has 1 trigger window and is not adjustible
abf dizzy is no good for kr ecu as it only has 1 trigger window and is not adjustible
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
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Posted
Settling In
Cheers for the reply just wanted more conformation on the matter. I've know sorted it with thanks to you. I came across a corrado. 1.8 16v and took the lot and the wiring. Fitting it yesterday and she fired into life. All I've got to do now is tidy up the wiring and we are away. Chere's for the help.
Posted
MOTY 2013
coolio
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Posted
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rubjonny said
coolio
Dude…. Got the dizzy and the wiring I needed with ecu and everything. Fitted the dizzy and got the old girl runny nice on the old wiring. Set about changing it yesterday. Followed your instructions on a previous post but I've got a couple of issues which I'm hoping your can help me with.
1. It won't run haha.
2. Blue and white wire has a female spade connector at the end with the dizzy plug but I don't know where that plugs too.
3. I had to lengthen my crank sensor wires. Now I'm using the abf sensor. Should I use the kr 1?
Cheers
Posted
MOTY 2013
1. oh dear
2. you need to add another black collar single pin temp sensor to the side of the head, same one as the dash runs off currently
3. you dont use the abf crank sensor anymore, instead you use the kr dizzy
2. you need to add another black collar single pin temp sensor to the side of the head, same one as the dash runs off currently
3. you dont use the abf crank sensor anymore, instead you use the kr dizzy
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Posted
Settling In
Haha thanks.
Ok that's fair enough.
So the crank sensor plug is now redundant?
Also would no temp sensor on the kr loom make it not spark.
Sorry just try to get my head around it
You haven't got a diagram or pictures have you.
Cheers
Ok that's fair enough.
So the crank sensor plug is now redundant?
Also would no temp sensor on the kr loom make it not spark.
Sorry just try to get my head around it
You haven't got a diagram or pictures have you.
Cheers
Posted
MOTY 2013
yup crank sensor is no longer needed, lack of temp sensor shouldn't stop it sparking, but to test plug it into the dash sensor and see.
1 - Earth to battery -ve
2 - KR ign controller plug
3 - TCI-H plug
4 - Black - KR ign controller & TCI-H ign live - terminal 15 side of coil
5 - Green - Coil trigger - terminal 1 side of coil
\- red/black - spade is for the isv control unit, the main wire is the rev counter feed
6 - Brown - Earth to cylinder head
7 - Blue/white - Temp sensor feed (use one of the 3 on the side of the head)
8 - Dizzy plug
9 - red/yellow - Fuel pump relay earth trigger
\- black/yellow - idle switch feed (12v feed with throttle shut)
1 - Earth to battery -ve
2 - KR ign controller plug
3 - TCI-H plug
4 - Black - KR ign controller & TCI-H ign live - terminal 15 side of coil
5 - Green - Coil trigger - terminal 1 side of coil
\- red/black - spade is for the isv control unit, the main wire is the rev counter feed
6 - Brown - Earth to cylinder head
7 - Blue/white - Temp sensor feed (use one of the 3 on the side of the head)
8 - Dizzy plug
9 - red/yellow - Fuel pump relay earth trigger
\- black/yellow - idle switch feed (12v feed with throttle shut)
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Posted
Settling In
Ok sweet, cheers buddy. I will go through all the wiring later and see.
The 2 red/black wires I can cut one off can't I as I'm only using it for rev counter. don't think I've got the red/yellow fuel pump trigger but again I will check but that wouldn't stop it firing either would it?
Also do I need to use the kr TCI-H unit or will the original one be ok?
Oh yea I am using carbs aswell don't know if that makes a difference.
Cheers for all the help
The 2 red/black wires I can cut one off can't I as I'm only using it for rev counter. don't think I've got the red/yellow fuel pump trigger but again I will check but that wouldn't stop it firing either would it?
Also do I need to use the kr TCI-H unit or will the original one be ok?
Oh yea I am using carbs aswell don't know if that makes a difference.
Cheers for all the help
Last edit: by Willt987
Posted
MOTY 2013
yes the 2nd spade is for isv control unit, you use the odl red/black wire from your mk1 loom anyway, pop out the mk2 red/black and pop mk1 into the plug. green wire leave as is.
the fuel pump trigger is only needed if you want your ecu to run the pump, you can use a kjet pump relay without rev limiter instead. or if using a bike carb pump it just needs an ignition live so an 18 relay would do. assumign you're using the gti pin for fuel pump power that is!
any mk1 or mk2 tci unit is fine, they all work the same
the fuel pump trigger is only needed if you want your ecu to run the pump, you can use a kjet pump relay without rev limiter instead. or if using a bike carb pump it just needs an ignition live so an 18 relay would do. assumign you're using the gti pin for fuel pump power that is!
any mk1 or mk2 tci unit is fine, they all work the same
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Posted
Settling In
Sweet. ThatS sounds like I'm all in on everything.
I think that were I going amiss that live wire for pump is where I need. I've got a facet pump running twin carbs so I can sort that live feed then.
That could be my problem :-o
Will have see what I can to later on then and hopefully we will have a runner.
Cheers ;-)
I think that were I going amiss that live wire for pump is where I need. I've got a facet pump running twin carbs so I can sort that live feed then.
That could be my problem :-o
Will have see what I can to later on then and hopefully we will have a runner.
Cheers ;-)
Posted
MOTY 2013
should still spark even if pump not powered, where are you feeding it from?
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Posted
Settling In
Fuel pump feed is straight into the ignition live. I will check all my wires are going to the right places and stuff. Could just be I've missed something out.
I will test all the feeds and stuff aswell.
Will let you know when I've had a look.
I will test all the feeds and stuff aswell.
Will let you know when I've had a look.
Posted
MOTY 2013
ok that will work, if its a bike pump then cool sorted. if a normal electric pump once its all runnign i would recommend you get a proper relay in there to control it as with ign live it wont cut out in a crash which could be Very Bad
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Posted
Settling In
Yea once it's all running nicely in going to safety it all :-D.
Right ivI've just been to it. Had a look at the loom put the temp sensor on and checked all the wiring and no joy. Put the old loom back on and straight up so dizzy, leads, TCI-H and coil are all ok.
I've looked at your loom compared to mine and there are some differences. But I removed it myself from a 1.8 16valve corrado.
Here's a pin.
Correct me if I'm wrong but:
1.TCI-H
2. Ecu
3. crank sensor
4. ve-
5. To dizzy
6. temp sensor
7. cylinder head earth
8. coil
9. coil ve+
Hopefully it's obvious to you.
Cheers.
Right ivI've just been to it. Had a look at the loom put the temp sensor on and checked all the wiring and no joy. Put the old loom back on and straight up so dizzy, leads, TCI-H and coil are all ok.
I've looked at your loom compared to mine and there are some differences. But I removed it myself from a 1.8 16valve corrado.
Here's a pin.
Correct me if I'm wrong but:
1.TCI-H
2. Ecu
3. crank sensor
4. ve-
5. To dizzy
6. temp sensor
7. cylinder head earth
8. coil
9. coil ve+
Hopefully it's obvious to you.
Cheers.
Posted
MOTY 2013
aha, corrado ecu is powered from the 3 pin plug labelled 3, take the black/white wire out of it and run to the dizzy +ve wire9 spade
4 i assume is the battery -ve no idea why someone decided to cut it that short!
4 i assume is the battery -ve no idea why someone decided to cut it that short!
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Posted
Settling In
Superb knew you wouldn't let me down. So chuck a female spade on it (black/white) and add it with wire 9 which goes on the coil? Or actually all the way to the dizzy itself with that black/white?
Not a clue why it's that short but I'm going to solder it all nice and tidy when it's running.
Not a clue why it's that short but I'm going to solder it all nice and tidy when it's running.
Posted
MOTY 2013
yeah add a spade and pop to coil +ve, or chop the black wire spade off and put them both into same spade, or solder ecu wire to black wire, whatever.
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Posted
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Smashing I will get on it tomorrow and let you know.
Your a legend buddy thanks for all the help.
Fingers crossed she's be firing lovely.
Your a legend buddy thanks for all the help.
Fingers crossed she's be firing lovely.
Posted
Settling In
Mate, you are a legend. Plug it all in a boom she's running. And my god what a difference.
Thanks for the help much appreciated.
Thanks for the help much appreciated.
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