16vg60; Advice on last few things
Posted
#1442708
(In Topic #190555)
Old Timer
Firstly my old standard gti pump has seen better days and im going to be buying a new one. I know the standard gti pump is up to the job but are there any others out there worth considering? Would i get away with a standard fuel filter on this conversion as my plan was to mount it in the accumulator bracket underneath the car.
Im considering running braided fuel hose throughout and wondered if there are any disadvantages compared to hard piping apart? Where would i get it from and what fittings would i use to connect up the pump and filter?
Im going to be running distributerless ignition and need to mount a coil, probably where the distributer was. There are kits available to do all this but they are from the states and i already have most of the things i need. What coil would people recommend i go with? Also is it possible to have HT leads made up to specific lengths to suit the coil placement? Thanks.
Posted
Moderator
HTH
Posted
Settled In
1983 Golf GT 2.1 16V with throttles/1978 Golf LS 2.1 ABF with throttles/2008 Citi Storm 1.4i/2007 Hyundai Getz - my daily
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Moderator
Posted
Website Manager
My coil is a Gen 1 Ford one, Emerald recommended it, although I think that they currently recommend the Gen 2 version. I got mine from here:
http://www.lloydspecialistdevelopments.co.uk/ford-gen.1-type-4-cylinder-coil-pack
It is mounted where the dissy once was, I made an aluminium frame for it.
I then measured for leads and had a custom set made from Magnecor to suit the 16V plugs and Ford Gen 1 coil pack. http://www.magnecor.co.uk/custom_sets.asp
I got myself a roll of Copper/Nickel and made my own fuel lines up using the original fixings - it was a pain to do but worked out well.
Posted
MOTY 2013
you can conver the fuel pump to push fit with an M12x1.5 barbed banjo adaptor, 7 or 8mm barbed fitting. you can bin the fuel accumulator as well, put a mk2/3 digifant fuel filter in its place. then its a case of choose your fuel line material, if you go rubber make sure its suitable for modern fuel! I would go with oem mk2/3/polo plastic fuel lines, and just use rubber pipes for the ends
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
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My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
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You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
Posted
Old Timer
Would those polo plastic lines actually fit rub Johnny?
I was also thinking I'd mount the filter in the fuel accumulator bracket if it would fit?
Then there is the FPR. How did you mount yours under the car torker?
For those people running EFI, how have you achieved a good idle as there is nothing in place to provide any idle stabilisation on my build or will this be taken care of purely by the ECU?
Posted
Website Manager
In the idle circuit I also have one of those one way ball valves that closes under boost because the ISV's are notoriously leaky.
Posted
Old Timer
Ok so it looks like ill need an ISV too then and figure out where to mount it.
Ill look into the gen 2 ford coilpacks, along with the stock 16V HT leads so long as the connectors are compatible ill be ok.
Ive emailed DTA to find out what coils their ECUs are compatible with, i didnt realise some had a built in ignition module :/.
Posted
Settled In
Despite having relatively wild cams (282/288 in my ABF and 288/288 in my 16V) idling is not a problem with throttles. First start on a cold morning it needs some assistance to keep the idling going but when I hit the stop street just up the road from my house it idles fine. This is all down to the ECU setup and playing with the timing around the idle mark, no idle stabilisation, just the throttle stops on the throttles itself. Calibrating the throttles plays a role as well, having the throttle openings exactly the same at idle will promote smooth idling as well.
I'm using a local engine management called Dicktator, most guys I know use it because of ease of installation and setup.
1983 Golf GT 2.1 16V with throttles/1978 Golf LS 2.1 ABF with throttles/2008 Citi Storm 1.4i/2007 Hyundai Getz - my daily
Posted
Old Timer
So far im opting to go for DTA but im still undecided. Ive heard good things about emerald too so not sure which way to go.
Would it be prudent to run a lift pump along with a standard pump also?
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Website Manager
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Old Timer
Run hard lines underneath the car then braided lines in the engine bay.
Still not decided on DTA or Emerald but i dont think there is much in it.
The gen2 ford coilpacks look like a good bet and ill make a bracket to suit it and mount that on the distributer blank i already have.
Im now looking into which wideband lambda kit is worth going for, another can of worms by the looks of it.
Posted
Old Timer
Posted
Website Manager
Ask yourself why a lift pump was fitted to the post 84 tanks ? It was so that VW could consolidate to a single tank design for both carb and GTI models.
Tin top tanks have the fuel feed to the main pump at the bottom of the tank, so gravity feeds the fuel. In later cabby tanks the lift pump draws fuel out of the bottom of the tank and feeds the main pump as the main pump would quickly burn out trying to draw the fuel out - actually this is a common post 84 cabby issue as the lift pump starts to fail, more current is drawn by the main pump, which heats the relay and in worst cases melts the solder and corrodes the relay plate pins.
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Old Timer
This is the reason i think most people are suggesting i fit a lift pump?? makes sense to me.
Posted
Website Manager
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Old Timer
If the GTI tank was in as new condition im sure it wouldn't be a concern but you cant even source a genuine replacement now.
Last edit: by daniboy123
Posted
Website Manager
Posted
MOTY 2013
http://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=how-to_2%2Ffuel-tank-cleaning_3
if all good, great leave it stock. if not then you'll have to think of another solution either swap the tank for carb, or maybe fit a facet type inline pump on the bottom outlet.
either way you'll need an external swirl pot of some kind fed from lifter or inline pump to ensure the main is always supplied with fuel. the main reason a swirl pot is required in any sertup is the VW pump requires a constant supply of fuel otherwise it will die, as the fuel also lubricates the pump internals
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
My wiring diagrams and other documents have moved here:
VAG Documents & Downloads
You'll need to sign into google/gmail for the link to work! (its free!)
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