radiator upgrade

hi, any1 know of a bigger radiator that i could use that in my 1.3? one with a built in water tank so its a direct replacement.or advice on how to change the plumbing to fit a bigger one in??

Why do you need to change the plumbing? Just stick with the standard header tank. I think the diesel rad is the big one. I'm in Harrogate. When I've got mine sorted I'd like to have a look at your bike carb setup.

The 1.1 & 1.3 gained a separate header tank for the 1983 model year (08/82 on, "D" chassis in VIN), so if you can find one in a breakers, you can see how it works (hoses might be a bit old to use, but maybe they'd be good enough).

However, as mentioned above, why do you need to change the radiator? - my '82 1.3 ("C" chassis) was perfect at all temperatures and engine speeds with the expansion tank in the rad. If you are getting overheating, it's not a design issue - let us know, and we'll tell you what's knackered…

i wanted to upgrade because iv got bike carbs on my 1.3gt engine and i usually drive it pretty hard. im just a bit worried about it overheating because i havnt figured out how to match the gt's temp sensor to my 1.1 dash…plus it can only be a good thing that its got a bigger radiator cant it?? :dontknow:

matt-mk1 said

i wanted to upgrade because iv got bike carbs on my 1.3gt engine and i usually drive it pretty hard. im just a bit worried about it overheating because i havnt figured out how to match the gt's temp sensor to my 1.1 dash…plus it can only be a good thing that its got a bigger radiator cant it?? :dontknow:

The temp sensor from the 1.3GT should match the 1.1 gauge in the dash anyway, but if it doesn't, you can use a 1.1 temp sender on the 1.3GT engine - the scale of temp's that they both need to read are very similar, if not identical. The only differences that you might note is that the thermostat rating (the temp at which it opens) might be different.

Having a too-big radiator is probably not as bad as having a too-small one, but it can make your engine run a bit cool, which is a bad thing (tolerances are designed for when the engine is at the correct temp, and all the various parts have expanded by the expected amount). Also your fuel consumption will be poorer when the engine is a bit cold.

Even with bike carbs, a well maintained* engine shouldn't overheat, and these small-block VW ones don't have any particular weak spots.

I'd get the gauge working first, and then see how it goes…

*well-maintained means, in this case, a good coolant pump, correct ratios of VAG coolant to (soft) water, and all hoses and waterways in the head and block being in good condition, not silted up or rusty

thanks for the help, il have a go at getting the temp sensor working 1st then. any suggestions of where i can get new hoses from that wont cost the earth? i dont really NEED them but thr letting the look of the engine bay down a bit cos thr getting on a bit now.
               thanks again.