Car cutting out when fully warm - help

Hi all sorry for atrating all these threads but i think it's best to start one each of each pronlem (I have loads)!

Ok, from cold starting the car with choke fully out, then once started push it in so the car revs around 1300 rpm, drives to wotk - all seems fine after 4-5 mins i put the choke all the way in and still all is fine, then after around 12 mins of driving the car start to judder and choke at any speed and in any gear, when i come up to a round about the car stalls - revs plumet!

She restarts fairyly well but i have to floor the accelerator and even when floored it stutury and thr revs are around 1200 rpm ans slowwly and reluctantly rise, after 4 mins of this it's all fine again.

Once cold she's fine agian and the whole process starts again!

It's like it's struggling to get fuel in? I am not offay with carbs so any help on this would be most appreciated as i may not be able to get her started again next time

Thanks

Sounds like muck in the fuel tank. Remove rear seat, inspection hatch and sender and look inside with a torch.

Thanks, would a fill up temperllery fix this? as i can't get to work on the car untill the weekend?

Sound right though as the car has been standing for over a year, but drives remarkally well!

Should i add an additive in the tank as well like redex to clean any crap?

Thanks

Standing for a year?  Are you using the same fuel that was in there?  That maybe the cause.  Fill her up asap with new petrol.

Also depends how much fuel was in the tank when it was wasn't in use - if it was less than half full the empty part of the tank could have started rusting so the fuel maybe contaminated.  As early 1800 says, have a look inside the tank (don't smoke near it!).  If you have a small magnet anywhere, attach it to a piece of string and lower it in.  When you pull it out, you'll be able to tell if theres any rust.  I've been driving my cabbie around with an old speaker fixed to the underside of the tank which draws all of the metal contaminates - going to find out what its collected this weekend.  
Another suggestion is to take off the filler cap and have a look in the neck and see if there is any rust in there.

All this rust can enter the fuel lines partially blocking them or travel even further to the engine.  

Danny

Thanks - Car had minimum fuel in her when left standing! I'll investigate that ASAP.

Another thing - Could it be the alaternator/pack breaking down under load maybe? as i have notice this happens when driving in the dark, so light, radio, heaters all on!

I just remembered this morning tyhat when i pulled up to work the battery light was very, very faintly flashing!

Would that cause those symptoms?

Thanks

Defo do what they have suggested above, but have you done the timing yet, setup the carb correctly, have you removed carb and cleaned it? also have a look at the carb flange see if there is an air leak coming in somewhere, usually the flanges split plus sucing in more air thus giving bad running and plenty of cut outs.
Just a thought fella, check these also bud if your going to do the petrol side to the car.
Look at the filter that sits just to the left of the block on the fuel line in engine bay, see if it is holding any fragments of dirt of a browny colour, change this also.
Moisture may have collected in the tank plus water going throught the lines and giving the juddering
Pete :wink:

Yes i will follow all the advice above, thanks!

I got the timing checked and it was just under 6 degrees which is fine yes? 5-7 degrees!

I struggled with setting the C0 myself (had a gunston gas anylyser) and could not get it below 2% where Bert told bme around 1% was ideal.

When i got the MOT it was 0.13% on idle and 3% at 2500rpm

Is this ok, or should i up the fuel a bit?

Thanks

Sounds like the alternator.  When the car is idling at night, rev the engine slightly and if the lights dim when the revs drop again it could be something to do with the alternator.  Check its connections first as these can corrode.  Also check the belts and see if they're worn.
Have you replaced the battery since its been back on the road?  If not, this could be the main problem.  Also, if you do short trips (esp at night with lights and heater on) the battery won't be able to charge either.

have you inspected the carb flange yet, this would be best to do 1st before setting up the carb.
When you have removed the carb look all round the inside of teh flange, it should be flat and smooth allround, if you see a bubble small or big, replace it, air leak.
I do the co's by ear, but if you have problems fella, just pop to your local garage and ask them if they can check the emissions and set them for you, if they know you they will not charge :wink:
Pete

Will do, many thanks all!

Checked the battery - 12.5V and 14.2 volts when running, so that rules that out

Quick question about the fuel filter, how much fuel should i be able to see in it running or not? It looks clean btw - very new

Thanks

Just an update, well since i filled her up the second time and put some redex in, she has been fine, rain,damp, dry, cold weather all fine!

I am hoping it was just some water in the fuel a bit of muck in the carb!

Getting her crypton tuned this friday so that should see what's she been up to