Weight of rear axle assembly on '83 GTi?

OK, I have pretty much resigned myself to the fact the Mk1 is not going to be back on the road for Gaydon  :cry: .

That means I may as well strip and refurb the rear axle properly as it will be easier fitting the new compensator and brake lines etc with it off the car.

What I need to know is how heavy is it when off the car with the shocks and drums still attached? Is it manouverable by just one person or does it need 2 people? Reason I ask is I am looking at doing this myself without assistance and don't want to get half way through only to find I can't move the damn thing by myself  8O .

Plan is to get the rear of the car supported on axle stands with the wheels off, give the rear axle mounting bolts a good clean and some of that Wurth rust off freezy stuff Littlekev used. Then remove bolts and lower with a trolley jack.

Any flaws in this approach please speak up now so I don't find out too late. I'll be cutting the brake pipes and flexi lines as they are all getting replaced.

Alkso anyone know of a good online supplier for stainless fastenings (bolts etc)?

Cheers,

Chris

it can be done with just one person but is easier with two.
I replaced mine a few months back. i lowered it off the car with a trolly jack but you will need two folk to put the axle back on the car, just to line up the mounts and struts.
i did mine in a similer way to what you describe but i kept the flexi hoses, disconecting the flexi hose was the hardest thing about the job tho.

Thanks for than cabby_dan.

Having just looked at my drive on ramp in the garage I am wondering about some mods to that that will let me raise the car using the jacking / lifting points so leaving the wheels free…….

If I can find a supplier of 2x4 steel box section local to me I may have a cunning plan  :wink:

Chris

I replaced mine by myself. They're not stupidly heavy, but they ain't light. Managed to get one off a car from the scrappy (with hubs/drums/shocks) and carry it through the sludge and crud in the yard by myself, and I'm no weight lifter for sure !
Use two trolly jacks to lift the axle back into position - should be no problem.
Get cleaning the threads on those mounting studs and buy a load of Plus Gas in preparation !!!
Good luck,
Mark.

I have to say I would consider a scrappy beam and hubs as it would make the resto process easier - how much did yours cost you?

I am looking at a way to use the cross beams on my manual ramp to lift the car on the jacking points - only think is I'm not clear at the rear where the mounting pads of an arm type hydraulic lift are usually placed when raising the car - anyone know?

The front is easy as you can see the 2 round "dimples" used in the factory for mounting the shell on the supporting cage for transporting it round the production line.

Chris

I got the beam for ?15. It was off a base model car though so I had to drill holes for the anti-roll bar. I swapped it as the one on mine was bent slightly. Someone had put washers behind the stub axle on one side to try and level it out a bit. If you're looking for one then I think a Scirocco one is the same (well, they look the same to me anyway - sure someone here would know 100%)
Cheers,
Mark

100% Yes …….


Got one on mine from 1990 Scirroco [?20.00], has rear roll bar , drums are different shape but same and it was not rusty so it made cleaning and painting easy .
I lifted my car using a wood beam placed at the furthest point rear i could get [under rear seat] . Made the job easy though , and as a bonus you can rust proof while it's all off .  


Cheers……

So when supporting the rear of the car on axle stands, where do you position them so that you can still remove the rear axle?

The jacking points on the sill have the panel seam running along them and look like they would crush? Or do you use blocks of wood on the axle stands with a groove cut in them?

Cheers,

Chris

Chris see my "Edit" above , this old picture may give you an idea i used a normal scrounged fence post  

Cheers……

Hi Chudd,

Thanks for the pic. So did you have to cut small grooves in the fencepost to avoid crushing the panel seam at the bottom of the sills then?

As I am only removing the rear axle all the exhaust and other pipework will still be in place. This "hangs down" a bit below the level of the outer sill area, so I am looking at fabbing some short metal blocks with rubber on top to sit on top of the cross beams on my ramp to give a very flattened "U" shaped support.

Chris

Chris

If you put a post under your car it sits on the  ribs on either side of the floor and misses the fuel lines , brakes lines and sills . So you will not have to groove any thing , looking at my old picture i see i even left the exhaust on . The only thing i removed from memory was the hand brake cables with the axle .

Cheers ………..

Ah - great - I did look at that area and wonder about that. Is it strong enough to support the weight of the car with the axle on without deforming the floor pan in that area?

Apologies for all the questions, but you can't beat the experience of some one that has done this already  

Cheers,

Chris

Chris

I had no problems , fuel tank empty spare wheel out etc makes the car very light at the rear .  
That part of the floor is very strong , and i was lifting my MK1 with tatty rusty sills .

Cheers……..