Still rubbish after MC and servo upgrade

Had the bigger master cylinder and servo uprade but the brakes are still spongey and rubbish, bled the bloody things twice and still no different, any ideas why?

adjust the linkage on the bulk head, and then when the slacks taken out you will need to raise the pedal again via the adjuster on the back of the arm where it attaches to the cross bar.

then beeld the brakes again, but bleed it old skool way, on the floor with the rear cut off valve pressed in, bleed furthest away from the MC and work towards it, ie driver rear, pass rear, driver front, pass front.

bleed via pushing the pedal, using a friend and going down, close the bleed valve, pedal up, pedal down, open the bleed valve, allow the pedal to fall, close the bleed valve and repeat.

the mk1 pedal is never perfect due to the number of linkages, but it can be pretty good.

if you are around the Nottingham area or want to travel your free to come and see me and I can have a butches for you, not much I cant do on a car on the drive  

Had the bigger master cylinder and servo uprade but the brakes are still spongey and rubbish, bled the bloody things twice and still no different, any ideas why?

It took me 4 litres pulled through to get rid of the air. I fitted a new M/C, brake lines, brake flexy`s and VX calipers so it was completely dry.

I`d deffo say its air in the system. A combination of one person on the pedal etc in between using an Easibleed was required on mine.

Once done it should be a vast improvement.

As well as M7R`s advice some tried and tested methods are:

1. Wedge the brake pedal on overnight, this forces small air bubbles to congregate making it easier to bleed them out
2. High spots are where the air gathers (ie:top of front brake flexy`s or pipes) so you can `crack` the joints locally and bleed from there.
3. It may be that the m/c is airlocked (see 2) above.
4. Ensure all bleed nipples are at the top of the caliper. If aftermarket calipers are used or calipers are fitted wrongly and the bleed nipple is on the bottom then remove the caliper and invert it with a block of wood between the pads or swap them to the correct side so the nipples are uppermost.
5. Clamp the pressure relief valve so its fully open

HTH and good luck

oh and DO NOT use a pressure bleeder.. this will add tiny air bubbles to the fluid and you will never get a mint pedal with it

I have used the pressure bleeder for years and always obtain a great pedal feel - it is an essential piece of kit when you are on your own doing this job.

The key is always to make sure that the fluid has stood for a least 24 hours and when you pour the fluid into the reservoir or the pressure bleed container be very careful not to aerate it, use a funnel and run it down the side of the vessel slowly.

People fail with the pressure bleeder kits when they don't get a good seal on them, which causes air to be drawn in and bubbles !!!

ill have ago at re bleeding and adjusting tomorrow and let you know the outcome, thanks again