Rear wheel bearing issues

Hi people

Right well my rear wheel bearing collapsed on me on my clipper, so got a vag bearing kit and today stripped it all down to replace. Took old collapsed bearing out and replaced with new ones ( inner and outer ).

Drove it home and got about 15 miles and totally went again, this time even worse, basically if it was not for the spilt pin it would of been off.



God knows where the nut casing went either but this was on there.

I am going to strip it down again tomorrow and have a look, but i can`t for the life of me figure out what i did wrong, any ideas ?

Has anything like this happened to anyone before

Does anyone know the torque setting the hub nut should be torqued up to. Could i have over tightened this and made the bearing collapse ?

Any help from anyone would be appreciated

Cheers Kenno

Could be over tightening yes. When you put the new ones in only tighten to about 10nm, spin the brake drum while you do it so it sits in place properly.  Loosen it off abit then gradually tighten it until you can just about move the thrust washer with the end over a screwdriver with out too much pressure.  Keep any eye on it while it beds in and adjust if neccessary.

The hub nut isn't torqued up, its only done up sufficiently so there is no play (or pragmatically, a tiny bit of play), in the bearing. TO test for this, raise the car and with the wheel firmly bolted, move it from side to side or up and down.

Don't bother with the ago old technique of "seeing if you can push the washer with a screwdriver, but without levering it" - its too inconsistent.

I assume you used good workshop technique?

You'd have to be seriously tightening it, to kill it in that time, surely?

As Paul_c said tighten it until there is 'no play' then bang that split pin and your done.

If the wheel wont spin freely its too tighten, also if it wobbles its not tight enough.

just a thought,did you renew the bearing races too? ive seen people just fit the bearing  :?
Bert

Mark if you struggle pop over any time , i will have a look . There is a spare drum with good bearing in the shed you can have .

Cheers ………

Cheers for the replies guys,

Bert i replaced the full kit with the races aswell, removed the old ones and then tapped the new ones in. To be honest i thought the whole replacing all this was quite easy, but obviously i must of done something wrong.


I did have a problem with getting the old inner bearing race off though, had to chisel it as it was stuck onto the stub axle.

When the inner bearing is on, should this sit right back and touch the seal as i had quite a bit of gap here, but it would not go any further back.

Also thinking about it, if the nut was too tight the drum would not of moved would it as i did tighten it bit to much at 1st and it did not move then loosened off a bit and seemed fine.
When i put the wheel back on i had no play in it at all, where as the other side did have a little play (the bearing that is).

Chudd might take you up on that, i will take it off in the morning and see whats what with it, but as it is it won`t make it to yours without the wheel dropping off

Mebbe your hub is warped, never had one do this myself but I supposed its possible.

Right stripped it down again, and it looks like it was the outer bearing that has collapsed this time, where as before this was fine and it was the inner that had failed. Is there only one way these can go in.



It seems that the inner bearing is ok, can someone confirm off the picture that it should sit like that.



I now think i am going to have to change the stub axle as this looks to me like its knackered now from me driving it a few miles with the bearing like this.   



Right just to confirm,
 
Races into the drum,
Inner bearing tapped on,
Then drum on,
Then outer bearing tapped into place,
Then washer on,
Then nipped up with hub nut,
Drum should still be able to move freely,
Is that about the run down of it, obviously loads of grease aswell.

Are rear tintop gti brakes the same as my late clipper cab, same drums and bearings

Cheers Mark

Mark,the bigger inner bearing is fitted into the drum then the grease seal is pressed on top of that,the drum with rear bearing then slides onto stub axel,then fit the outer smaller bearing  :wink:
Bert

Thanks for the reply Bert, i just put the race in the drum then tapped the bearing onto the stub axle with seal sat behind, then drum over that. DOH!!! , so did that bit wrong. But this actually looks ok. Any ideas on why the outer one would of failed

Cheers Mark

probably too tight to be fair,change the stub axel,loads of grease,put drum on,looseish,put wheel on,adjust bearing and see if theres any play on the wheel,there should be a fraction,dont try to remove all the play,
Bert

Sorry for all the dumb arse questions, but am i right in thinking the stub axle is not a seperate bolt on part, it comes off with the whole back plate, which would mean disconnecting the brake pipe etc.

As you can probably guess i have never actually changed a rear bearing, or ever stripped the brakes down

Cheers Mark

its not that hard to change,4 bolts from the front,just gently pull the backplate foward,theres enough to drop the stub out the back  :wink:
Bert
just go east on the pipe

Yep cheers Bert, done that, stub axle now out. Just need another bearing kit and new stub axle.
Chudd is seeing if he has got one spare for me. I definatly over tightened this hub nut after speaking to Chudd on how it should be.

Live and learn though i guess

Cheers Mark

Hi guys i took my drum off to check the pads now im asembaling it with the old bearing what should i torture it