mk1 brakes applying themseleves after 16v servo master cylin

right i've put an audi s3 18t engine in my mk1 and thought it'd be a good idea to up grade the servo and master brake cylinder at the same time. I brought a brand new servo and cylinder from GSF (lots of money) and followed the advice on this forum from the servo and master cylinder up grade.
Now the only difference that i can see that i've done is that on my master cylinder i've put the two brake switches on the right hand side instead of blanking them off and using even more ugly t-pieces. then the two hydraulic feeds to the brakes on the left, they still branch off on t-pieces and brake diaganolly.
All seemed fine when we finally got the car up and running we must of got at least a mile then the brakes started to bind to a point where the car didn't want to move and the only way we could get them to free up was cracking open one of the hydraulic lines.
any help would be appriecated and it's cool to laugh at me if i've done something pritty dumb.

How much did you cut off the threaded end of the servo?

about 10mm. pls dont say its that that ruddy thing cost a mint

Did you use the Mk1 clevis pin adapter, and refit the return spring?

In any case, sounds like the brakes are slightly 'on'. If you've already chopped the 10mm, then only a little more adjustment is needed. You can probably do all this with the cross bar. Loosen the 2 nuts on each end - beware, one of them (right, I think) is a reverse thread. Being a reverse thread means you can twist the cross bar to lengthen or shorten it. You want to lengthen it slightly - the levers are arranged so it pulls (ie to the right) to apply the brakes.

i used the mk1 clevis and put the return spring on it if thats what you mean buy adaptor.
what i dont understand is that the first 7 or so times of using the brakes they were perfect then they ground the car almost to a hault.
they felt great when they were working a definate must upgrade but then they worked without applying the pedal.
so basically what your saying is that i didnt take enough off the end of the servo thread.
I hate cars, well.. no i don't but why does everything have to be the hard way.

10mm sounds right - all you're doing is making sure the thread and clevis pin, are the same distance away from the back of the servo (where it bolts to the bracket) as last time. I read 4mm but didn't believe it, so when I did my conversion measured it. So maybe it varies.

But, the crossbar is adjustable. Just back it off a little bit and see what happens? Easy enough to take a pair of pliers and a 13mm spanner with you, in the glovebox?

true! cheers for your help just had a bad 3 or 4 weeks with the old girl and it's starting to grind me down been a big head ach from start to fin and doesnt help that it's the family car. :?. anyone thinking of doing any kind of conversion should do each conversion one at a time. I've converted mine to power steering, 02j box, hydro clutch and bigger brakes and everyone of them has been like poking yourself with a sharpe stick in the eye. I've done this in about two weeks i've not eaten barely sleep and am skint without the stress of xmas (bar humbug).
in its maiden voyage (yesturday) the clutch was slipping as we had problems getting the clutch to enage and ballsed about with the slave untill it peed fluid all over the clutch. then the brakes binded and the car ground to a hault, then because the sump is so low and fradgile i grazed a slightly raised bit of ground and cracked the sump. All in the space of less than 30mins.