mk1 20v o2a gearbox and clutch problem help

Have just bought Scriv mk1 20v and would like some advice

The car has a couple of things I would like to sort

The gearbox and clutch release bearings are noisy and 3rd and 4th gears crunch when changing gear at speed. Have found volkswagenspares.com do a recon. 02a box with different ratio and uprated diff bolts for 395 +vat has anybody used one of their box's or could recommend an alternative.

Any ideas on the best clutch kit for the job running about 230 bhp

I also have a wheel rubbing problem the car has bbs rm 7.5" front and 8" rears, is quite low on H&R coilovers and the arches have been rolled. The rear wheels rub most times you accelerate and due to the country lanes around where I live (East Devon) they rub most of the time, is this usual with this set up or is it worth raising a touch or I hate to say changing the wheels.

Any ideas?

Andrew

I run a ASD code 02A diesel box on mine and personally think that it is a great choice for the 20vt engine as the ratios are nice and spaced out, I found that with a G60 box the ratios were too close and 1st & 2nd was just wheelspin and the rest just too close for the 20v engine.  Some people seem to like the mk3 16V box for the 20vt conversion, but can't make any comment about that as i've not tried one.

As for clutch, just use a standard LUK VR6 clutch from the likes of GSF/ECP, more than capable of handling the power, just depends whether in the future you want to go for more power as I would question their ability in handling it, you should get a new release bearing with the clutch kit.

Can't help on the wheels but know that my 16x7s with 195/45 occasionally catch when loaded up and on a bumpy road.

Thanks for the reply I think I will get the box from volkswagenspares.com and see what it is like, I agree about 1st and 2nd with the G60 box.

I am happy with the power so will use the VR6 clutch.

Thanks for the advise.


Can anyone help with wheels rubbing

hi, im doing a 20v conversion and would like to uprate the clutch too, so does a vr6 clutch fit straight onto the diesel gearbox then? and also the mk3 16v gearbox?  

Yup, the VR6 clutch will fit an 02A diesel or 16v box, i'm running an ASD diesel box with mine.  Only think that won't fit is the VR6 flywheel as it has 10 bolt fixing as opposed to 6bolt that the crank is, you'll need the diesel/G60/mk3 16V flywheel.

Not to Hijack ops: but what power are you running with the LUK clutch?

I am expecting a K03s with a map and breathing mods to have no more than 220hp and currently looking for a clutch.

Not sure really as I run an uprated helix VR6 clutch as me and clutches have a very poor history and I also plan to go for big power in the not too distant future.  My mate is running a chipped 1.8T in a caddy, which is prob about 200BHP with no problems, reports that I have read before is that the standard VR clutch is good for about 300BHP.

I now have the gearbox and will fit it next week with an LUK VR6 Clutch kit ?70.90 +vat from GSF.

My car runs about 230bhp qpeng stage 2 so will let you know how it gets on

Still looking for advice on rubbing wheels, 15"x 8" rear wheels can it be done without rubbing?

Can somebody help

Have fitted the gearbox and clutch kit today. The clutch is not allowing the gears to engage,  you a can select a gear with the engine off then start the car and the clutch just about works but is dragging with the pedal down.

I removed an 02a gear box and refitted a recond o2a gearbox and luk vr6 clutch kit.

The car has a hydraulic clutch and uses a willwood pedal box

we have bleed the clutch, no difference.

it is as if there is not enough movement on the release bearing

Any ideas

Sounds like either the clutch master or slave cylinder is goosed, had exactly the same problem on my mates caddy, bled up fine, no leaks, seemed to operate fine but the slave cylinder wasn't working properly, the rod obviously wasn't pushing far enough, changed that an it worked fine.

just changed the slave cylinder and no luck still the same the master cylinder is a wilwood one and has never given any trouble

any ideas

help

Are you using a big enough master cylinder for the job?  I think the VW ones about 19-20mm from memory so it will def need a .75 master cylinder.  Also are you getting full travel on the master cylinder from the pedal movement?

Thanks for you help mrpurple

I have just been to GSF and matched the clutch that we removed, it was a G60 clutch kit, so have bought it and will fit it on Tuesday hopefully.

I hope this does the trick as the E38 show is fast approaching.

G60 clutch fitted still the same I hate cars wright now!

we have checked the master cylinder by clamping the pipe and we get a solid pedal

Have fitted a new slave cylinder still the same but have been advised some slave cylinder are real pigs to bleed has any body had problems with Bleeding mk3 clutches.

E38 two days away a late night ahead!

VW ones aren't usually that bad, back bleeding it from the slave cylinder is a sure fire way to get it done.  Get a small oil can with a pump and modify the pipe to fit the bleed nipple, open it up and pump fluid through till it fills the resovoir.

Have just about got the clutch working, after all that it just needed bleeding and a call to the chap that built the car to tell me the clutch was not the best any way and he thinks the hole system needs upgrading.

For me thats a job for another day it will get me to my first E38 show as it is, so let the cleaning begin!