MK1 GOLF 1300cc GF Engine

VW Golf Mk1
1300cc
GF Engine Code

Hi there,

Have a problem with my MK 1 and seeking advise from the experts.

The engine starts ok with the choke and the choke disengaged the engine cuts out. Without the choke, it will start but only idle for 5 seconds and cuts out.

So far I have performed the following:
1. Ignition coil voltage checked, ok
2. Fuel lines clear. Removed the fuel gauge and checked for corrosion in tank.
3. Mechanical fuel pump is working fine.
4. Contact point / breakers replaced and gap adjusted as per the manual spec.
5. All spark plug leads ok
6. Timing belt installed correctly and all timing marks line up.
7. Earth (-ve) checked and cleaned. No corroded or damaged battery terminals.
8. Carb fuel cut off solenoid replaced with a new one
9. Original carb replaced with an identical one and earthed. Solex 34 PICT 6
10. Firing order ok
11. Spark plugs ok and gap adjusted
12. Distributor condensor replaced
13. Carb gasket which sits on inlet manifold checked, no leak
14. Brake servo disconnected and inlet manifold port capped, no difference
15. +ve supply from battery taken direct to +ve port of ignition coil to bypass ballast resistor and resistive wire, no difference
16. Fuel / air mixture of carb ok
17. All jets in carb checked and clear

If there is anything I am not aware of? Quite frustrated on what is the actual cause. Appreciate if you can help me.

Thanks a lot.

Regards,

Sounds like a fueling issue to me, but to confirm this I would try to keep the engine running by using easy start of brake cleaner in short bursts to keep revs at a steady speed if this is unsuccessful then your probly looking at the engine it's self if the spark is definitely ok, but if it does run you'll be looking at fueling possible a lift pump if it is fitted with one.

Best of luck and welcome

could be crap in the fuel tank or needs a new carb
get a twin webber

Hi scrabble,
Thanks for the response. One thing I noticed was that the fuel in the fuel filter is only 1/5 full. Is that normal? I would have thought at least 1/2 full. I took the mechanical fuel pump out and tested it by putting the inlet into a container of fuel and pressed the spring loaded shaft to check the function and it was working. Was thinking could it be the spring loaded shaft worn due to the cam shaft over a period of time? Maybe the shaft is not compressed fully, hence low fuel flow? What would be your view on this?
Thanks.

Hi s1bullet,
Thanks for the response.
If I was to consider replacing the carb with a twin webber. Can you advise the model / type I need for the 1300 GF Engine?
Thanks.

That could be very possible but before you dive any deeper I would want to confirm that it is fueling that is the issue, in respect to the filter if your talking about when the engine isn't running 1/5 is acceptable I have seen filters go totally empty on poor condition systems which then fills once started and the air is expelled

As for the carbs am afraid I can't advise you on one but hopefully some one else can

All the best

Hi scrabble,
Thanks for the prompt response.
The fuel filter remains 1/5 of fuel when the engine is running, even when the engine is turned off. There is enough full in the tank, I checked, lol.
I'll pull out the fuel pump and inspect the spring loaded shaft which pumps the fuel.
Seems that there may not be enough fuel flowing into the cylinders for combustion.
The mk1 golfs you know of, are they running on Solex carbs?
My previous 1.1 had a Solex carb and I never had an issue, besides the normal blocked jets.
Cheers!

To be honest ive only had one mk1 which ive still got now which is actually running on multipoint injection, its mainly because im a machanic/autoelectrion that i am able to offer advise.
so yeah if you can check the spring loaded shaft, then hopfully you'll find a fault there if not you'll be looking else where.

I checked the fuel pump and tested it and confirm it is working with good fuel flow.
Checked the crankcase breather, all clear.
The car starts, idles a little and just cuts out. Really frustrating.
Checked all the carb jets again, all clear.
The inlet & exhaust valves are ok as well.
Appreciate if anyone can advise if they have had a similar issue and if there is a solution to this.
Thanks.

Idling issue sorted. It was a combination of problems.
The wire between the coil and condensor had an internal break which is not visible to the eye. I only noticed it with my test lamp. Never thought this would be the case as externally the wire looks in good condition. Valuable lesson.
There was a very thin split of the rubber gasket which the carburetor sits on.
Finally, when I adjusted the points, the bearing plate was off so I had easy access. Noticed when the bearing plate is put back on, it alters the points gap as the distributor shaft is pushed into a more central position. Adjust the points with the bearing plate on, only undo the retaining screws, and turn the plate until you are able to slide in the filler gauge. Quite tricky, just have to be patient.
Then adjusted the static timing again using a test lamp. Runs sweet now.

Now I have a new problem. The 1st, 2nd and 4th gear engages fine. The 3rd gear pops out after pushing it in and lifting the clutch. If I hold it in, its fine. Also the reverse gear does not go in. Even if the engine is off. I think it may be due to the gap between the finger and plate. If not, then it may be the bushes of the gear linkage.

good job with the run ning issue!
in regards to the gear issues you could very well be right with the gear linkages, but could also be an internal gear box fault worn detent's on the internal part of the selecting mechanism, but you want to be checking the linkages first id say look for worn bushes or bends in the rod parts, how does the gear stick feel? as if its like stiring a bowl of porrige the selectors will be no good, best of luck