Wiring on ABF conversion

Does anyone know how to resolve the indicator wiring issue when using ce2 fusebox and original clocks? There are 3 wires on the ce2 loom where as there is ony 1 on the original, if all three wires put together then all indictors flash, just ike hazards?

Also does anyone know how to cure the constant flashing water temp light when doing the ABF conversion?

Last question…what colour are the wires which go to the air flow meter on the ABF engine?

Thanks all!

which wires exactly are you talking about dude? what stalks are you using?

flashing light could be water level sensor, what looms are you using for this? the level sensor is on the lighting loom on a mk2 gti, red/blue wire and brown/red.

abf doesnt have an air flow meter, unless you meant the inlet temp sensor? if so its yellow/white and brown/blue

Thanks for response mate, using mk3 loom and fusebox, mk1 clocks with rev, mk1 stalks, non mfa. ABF going into 89 caddy.

Using mk3 loom which has been spliced into mk1 keeping the lighting Plugs and swapping over plugs for water, exp tank etc. Engine part nearly done, moving onto dash loom next hence few questions.

Yes it's the inlet air temp and that's spot on, thank you

ok the trouble here is that the mk2/3 CE2 fusebox has hazard switch on the column, mk1 is on the dash. so you have to work out what wires go where. see my sig for golf91 and jetta89.pdf, that should help. plus if you look at the golf91 it shows the wiring for the dash mounted hazard switch on a CE2 (tilt column models)

ah, you're using mk1 clocks and mk3 level sender wiring? the light shouldnt flash if the control relay isnt fitted with the mk1 dash it should ignore the level sensor wiring completly

That's great, thanks so much, you are a gent

Can anyone help here, this is the wiring of the loom for the lambda/oxygen sensor and the plug is the sensor, which wires go to which, appreciate any input, many thanks

find a donor mk3 in the scrappy with the same plug as your lambda then splice it on matching up the wire colours, no need to mess about then! thats the post-96 plug you have there with the roundy end, any mk3 golf will do except diesel.

but the wire colours are as follows:
1 - red/wht (lambda heater power)
2 - brn/blk (lambda heater earth)
3 - yel - (lambda sensor earth)
4 - wht - (lambda sensor signal)

Nice one, it's typical, I'm breaking a mk3 now….but it's a diesel ha! Thank you mate

OK, getting much closer now, few electrical gremlins to sort out but it starts and runs, albeit noisily with no exhaust at the moment. I have a wire coming from ecu pin 36, blue and white wire with a blue single plug, whats it's purpose? Obviously not detrimental to it running however it would be great to know, cheers

thats speedo signal for ecu, it doesnt appear to do anythign when disconnected (mine mate 166bhp without!)

My theory is that its for speed limiter and/or for the ecu mpg signal calculation

Once again thank you Mr Jonny  

Righto, got hazards and telltale, indicators, cig lighter, radio, handbrake telltale exterior lights apart from fog light to rear and blower all working.

Just the indicator telltale on dash, I have a grn/blk and wht blk off the ce2 loom and a single blue/red from the ce1 dash loom? Now I've looked at RJ's wiring diagrams for 1989 Jetta nd 1991 golf and I can see a grn/wht/blk wire which I cannot physically find on the car? Am I barking up the wrong tree with this?

These I seem to have left over or the label has fallen off:

A single red marked as digi clock?

A thicker wht/yel?

A wht/blue?
 
Lastly a blk/yel?

on CE1 cluster the indicator warnign lamp is powered by the blue/red wire from A/17, on the CE2 cluster its thew green wire from U2/6.

CE2 black/white/green wire goes from H2/8 to the hazard switch pin 49a, the CE1 equivalent wire is black/white/green from A/18 to pin 49a on the hazard switch and indicator stalk. take a close look at your wires, its not liek a triple stripe its 2 colours and like dots if that makes sense

with those wires where do they come from? red could be perm live for dash, wht/yel could be front fogs, wht/blu could be speedo signal and blk/yel could be anythign loads of them

Ok excelent I have a bit more to go on, thanks mate. Learning all the time! I will have another gander tomorrow as I'm at work now.
The random wires are all with the oil pressure signals, headlight flash etc and the other stuff for the clocks, I'm splicing them into the white cabled loom which would have gone to the mk3 clocks so if I've got my head the right way around, those wires are coming from the CE1 clocks and are going to the CE2 fusebox, U1 and U2, I think!

ok ce1 cluster wiring:

T14
1 - blu/gry - Lights on feed
2 - brn - Earth
3 - pur/blk - Fusebox pin B/3 (fuel level sender)
4 - blu/yel - Fusebox pin B/7 (coolant temp sensor)
5 - red/blk - Fusebox pin B/19 (rev counter)
6 - red - Fusebox pin B/12 (permanent live)
7 - blu/wht - Fusebox pin A/28 (high beam warning)
8 - brn/wht - MFA switch mode button
9 - yel - Fusebox pin A/4 (high oil pressure warning switch) (blk/blu on early models)
10- brn/red
11- blu/blk - low oil pressure warning warning switch (yel on early models)
12- blu - Fusebox pin A/16 (alternator warning light)
13- blu/red - Fusebox pin A/17 (indicator warning lamp)
14- blk - Fusebox pin A/8 (ignition live feed)

T6
1 - wht/blu - outside air temp sensor
2 - wht/red - outside air temp sensor
3 - grn/blk - Fusebox pin B/15 (oil temp sensor)
4 - blk/yel - Fusebox pin A/3 (Gearshift control relay pin 3/L)
5 - wht/grn - Fusebox pin B/18 (Gearshift control relay pin 5/G)

for CE2 cluster, see here:
http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=219775

Cool, there was no connector at U2/6 so robbed bits off spare loom and plugged in there, indicator tell tale now working!
I think I'm starting to get the hang of this malarky finaly.
Off back down to connect up headlight warning and perm live now.
The gearshift control relay at T6, I'm presuming I dont need that?

You deserve a medal!

thats for the old skool mk1 dash with shift light and big mpg gauge, if you have later dash then no

Managed to get it started without the exhaust, picked it up after exhaust fitting, drove it home approx 8 miles without issues, the next weekend took it for a spin but only got 400 yards ish and it stopped. I havent been able to get it started since. Before I even put the engine in, it had these new parts:
Sparks
Ht Leads
Dizi cap and rotor arm
Battery
The new battery turns it over strongly, the fuel pump is buzzing away, ISZ is buzzing on ignition, 1/4 tank of petrol? Ive taken the injector rail off and watched all 4 produce mists of petrol to each chamber.
The coil and lambda are both second hand mk3 items, should I start here. I've still got the original coil, tci and wiring? Am really gutted because its just about ready for MOT but I cant get it there now. Pants!

unplug lambda to rule it out, coil is common fail on mk3 so a possibility. this is why i recommend you splice the mk1/2 electronic ignition wiring back in and use mk2 golf coil (mk1 coil may be wrong type for mk3 leads)

ecu temp sensor and crank sensor would be on my list too

Ok, she's starting and running again. It was either muck in the fuel filter/pump or loss of pressure dispite the pump running ok. Swapped out the whole pump/accumulator setup for one borrowed off a mate and bingo, starts on button. I can hear the pump pitch change now as the fuel is sent up to the engine and back to the tank, can hear it bubbling. Never heard that before. So relieved it insn't something too expensive.
I'd also tried what you advised and had tried another mk3 coil and a mk2 one but no joy. Thank you once again RJ.