Mk1 20vt wiring (again)

Ok, got my hands on a AGU ecu remapped and decoded by Jabba  sport! Plug this in to my car!  But the ignition on ,no fuel pump kicks in etc , then I crank the engine it doesn't start but when the key returns to run/ignition on, the fuel pump kicks in for 20 seconds or so and that's it!….. Gone over the wiring ecu power etc all ok I think. Has anyone got any diagrams of PIN numbers etc (1997 1.8t agu).  I have wired the loom in similar to standard! pin 4 of the ecu gives a earth(negative activation) to a relay this then supply's +ve power to fuel pump, coils,injectors,lambda and MAF sensor. So in theory when I put the ignition on my fuel pump fires up ready for cranking! The sensors on the engine are powered by the ecu ! I've been told that if the ecu was immobilised it still should run then cut out after a few seconds…  I have a few wire that I'm not sure what the do for example pin 22 (engine control ecu-power supply on starting) any help would be great guys thanks for reading…

cf_emoticons__BangHead:

find a rubjonny and he has all the wiring diagrams in his sig.

so with the fuel pump running does it fire? can you bridge the fuel pump relay to run constantly, whilst you get fuel to the rail and see if it fires up then?

so the car was running before you swapped ecu? or do you mean you wired it in and fitted this new ecu at the same time?

Cheers lads! I've bypassed the relay to get power to the fuel pump constantly and tryed cranking still won't start! The engine was running in the doner but has never started in the mk1 with my ecu (original one or the Jabba decoded one) the second ecu I've got has been borrowed to me ! The guy had it running in a mk1 golf! He's addiment it was running fine etc. I took my original ecu to a place called duplicut he tryed to to decode it, it never worked he reckons because he hasn't got the correct file to dump on to it.   ECU number is 06A 906 018 D

ME7 or ME7.5

guessing ME7 if its AGU.

have a read of this and see if it helps you out, as it sounds very similar.
http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?255949-no-spark-or-fuel-pump-in-mk1-conversion

ok cool, these are the pins you need to check on ecu:
1 - ignition live (from ecu relay ideally)
2 - earth (i run this to battery -ve)
3 - permanent live
4 - fuel pump relay earth trigger, to D/13
67 - sensor common ground (check for continuity to other sensor earths)

t10/14a plug on 2nd loom:
5 - fuel pump live
6 - fuel pump live
7 - earth (i run this to battery -ve)
8 - ignition live (from ecu relay ideally)
9 - earth (anywhere will do)

other things to check, make sure the fuel injectors, maf and lambda heater blue/yellow and red/purple wires are live when the fuel pump is on.

Cheers for the reply, ok then!

Checked pins 1 to 3, all ok, got good earths and power supply's were needed

Checked pin 67, tested continuity from all sensors to pin 67. Does the ecu earth these sensors!

Pin 4 is not triggering the fuel pump!  I have wired a relay controlled by pin 4 (-ve activation) when this relay operates this then supplies power +ve to fuel pump, coils, injectors,lambda,air mass meter,over boost pressure reg. all individually fused. This is OEM set up. I have pay passed relay to get power to all component but still no joy on starting

Checked coil pack supply's and earths all ok!

The only wires in the loom I have not connected are
Pin6  green/brown -instrument panel signal to pin 11
Pin7 yellow/blue-connection to auto box signal 1
Pin8 green-not wired
Pin 10 red/blue-not wired
Pin15 purple/red-petrol vapour canister- I've removed!
Pin18 green/white-not wired
Pin19 green/white-instrument panel plug signal to pin 15
Pin 20 blue/white-instrument panel signal to pin 3
Pin22 red/grey-engine control ECU power supply on starting
Pin 23 red/yellow- connection to auto box signal 2

This engine came from a 1.8t a3 1997 AUTO!
 The wiring pin info is from a diagnostic tool we use at work called TEXA it's pretty good, I've crossed referenced the pin data and wiring with auto data 2004 most of it matches etc….

Pin 7 and 23 are connections to auto transmission system signal 1 and2, haven't  got a clue what to do with these. The auto box had its own ecu so presuming these are signals to stop starting in gear or something!have tried putting them together when tying to start but no joy!

I've wired the ecu almost like standalone , I haven't used any of the original mk1 wiring or relays as such-got a fused ignition supply from ignition switch, fused supply from battery and the relay activated by pin 4 powers my fuel pump- used original mk1 cranking and cooling fan system tho- is this how standalone management would be wired!!!
 
I've connected pin 22 to my starter single wire this becomes live on cranking, don't know if it this was correct put still never started! The main issue is I'm getting no -ve activation on pin 4 to power the fuel pimp etc… I'm unable to test trigger earths from ecu to coils to even know if its sparking! I've got a feeling the ecu is immobilised ,but everyone's saying it should start and shut down! Sorry for the essay thanks for your help guys….

reet:
6 - rev counter, run that to adaptor:
http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=440379
7 - cant find in my diagram, i'll take your word for it
8 - aircon, not needed
10 - aircon, not needed
15 - carbon canister, not needed
18 - mpg signal for mk4 clocks, not needed
19 - diagnostics, run this to a vag-com port but its not needed for car to run
20 - speed signal from dash, probably not needed (wont stop it starting, but mixed info if it casues rev limit/limp or not when missing)
22 - cant find, must be auto?
23 - cant find

as long as you have power and earths to the pins i listed it should work, so i think its down to 1 of 2 things. either the ecu has blown up which is quite common, or its because it cant talk to the auto box. however, if the ecu itself isnt an auto unit its not down to that, as the auto pins you listed are not even present in a manual loom so dont need to be wired to anything.

even if the ecu was immobilised the car would still prime the pump and fire up for a few seconds before cutting out, so its not that either.

I'm currently tryign to find out if there is any auto/manual switching you can do, but if your ecu is manual already then let me know!

Basically I have two ecu's! The first is defo a AGU from a 1997 auto, the guy that tried to code it said he cannot code it because he has the incorrect file so I know that's not gonna  get the engine running, the second ecu I have is off a pal ,it has a Jabba remap and decoded by Jabba, he assures me 100% it was running. Both ecu's are doin the same ! The engine doesn't start then cut out!   The question is am I dealing with too immobilised or damaged ecu's!  I reckon I need to get my original ecu decoded correctly for a start! Have you ever heard of the ecu's not being able to be decoded. Thanks again rubjonny…    

if it was damaged you wouldn't be able to pin it out the loom?

with ignition on do you get a buzz sound from the engine bay? as if something is doing something? i'm not sure what it is, injectors maybe? but I only got this with a working ECU, with my damaged ECU the bay was silent.

you checked for a spark whilst cranking?

as my engine had been sat for a while, i used some ezi start to help it along whilst cranking to fire up the first time. I sprayed it down the take off for the servo line.

its nothing to do with the immobiliser, like i said if it was that the engine would start and cut out, so no worries there.

if 2 ecus are doing the same thing either you blew them both up or there is summat wrong with your loom. the main thing is it should prime the pumps if you have wired the ecu earth trigger properly.

thing is though if all the pins above check out then I cant see what it could be wiring wise, i think it might be worth removing the loom and unwrapping it again, trace all the wires from the ecu plugs looking for any shorts. check ecu plug pins are all straight as well if any have opened up they wont make good contact.

get the diagnostics working too, see if you can talk to the ecu(s)

When I put the ignition on I can hear buzzing and ticking in the engine bay so the ecu must be giving outputs of some sort! The thing is I do get the pin 4 trigger wire kicking in after I crank !    So I put the key in,turn on ignition- hear the sound from engine bay buzzing etc, then I crank - engine cranks but doesn't start, then return the key back to ignition on/run- the pin 4 relay(fuel pump etc) kicks in for 10-15 seconds then goes off! I've tried cranking when this happens but it just shuts off!   Will strip the loom I think! And all the pins look sound! Do you guys use standalone ? 

running OEM ecu, albeit ME7.5 from a later engine.
my pump doesn't always fire up when the ignition is turned, perhaps the system is pressured?

anyhows you got a spark?

fuel out of the injectors?

what do you think is stopping it from firing up?

try a bit of spray in the manifold and see if it wants to catch.

I recon it's ecu! The fuel pumps gotta run with the engine constant! A petrol has no lift pump like diesels ! Thers no fuel pressure sensor in the system for the ecu to know fuel pressure!

but you haven't got the engine running yet.

like i say my fuel pump doesn't always buzz when the ignition is turned on.

so back to basics for any engine.

spark?
fuel at injectors?

you obviously need both of these for it to work.

mine had been sat for a ages (years) unused, so when i finally had it all ready to go (having sourced a 2nd ECU), I found some ezi start was needed to help the engine along in getting going. now it starts fine.


I found with my dead ecu i couldn't get any of the pin outs to work, no voltage at coils or injectors.

Might be a silly question but have you used a constant 12v ignition cranking live? I did a diesel to petrol engine conversion years ago and just used an ignition live for coil but it obviously cuts out whilst cranking which gave me your fault description only when ignition turned back to position 2 after cranking did I get a brief spark,took me ages to find but more me being stupi

Back again on this topic, checked all wires and they go wer they should! Got earths and +ve's where they should be! But still no joy… Next I put a fault code reader on… Only one. fault "evap/purge leak" this is because I have removed the breather and evap system, I need to put a resistor in the wiring to get rid of this code… When I crank the engine the fuel pump cuts out, I have no spark at any coils (trigger earths from ECU to activate coils) the ecu is not immobilised..
I am really out of ideas on this one…. Anyone local to brum….. Thinking of going aftermarket… What people think……. Oo and the battery's ok..  

maybe a silly question but any wiring you have done is the wire thickness correct?
Fuel pump should just prime then go off till you start the engine.. im guessing the pump wont start till engine is running, will prime everytime you turn the key thou

Found the problem guys! I wired the ECU ignition live to a feed that dies when cranking- so basically  when I crank the ECU cuts out… What a &nob I am, still had the fuel pump issue, got round that by putting a constant +ve to the relay…. The fuel pump doesn't  cut in when the ignition is switched on , but as soon as you start to crank if cuts in and fires straight away…. Thanks for your help and advice… Quite an easy  thing to do when you get your head round it….

Ooo yer got vagcom... What a tool a must have I think.....