Brakes binding when warm, Mk1 with Mk2 Servo+Master Cyl

Hi Guys,

New to this forum, I'm mainly a surfer on the E30 M3 website, but my friend is building a Mk1 Golf to go rallying in but has no internet access, hence my registration to this forum.

Now, the problem.
He has fitted a Mk2 Servo with New Master Cylinder to suit, and instead of cutting the bar in the servo, he's spaced it out 10mm instead.(same effect)
But, he's not sure on weather he swapped the Clevis pin off the original Mk1 Servo.

The brakes we adjusted up, and they are great. But when they warm up they seem to stick on a bit. Hence then wind off the master cylinder but thr brakes turn crap again.
They are fast road pads.

Any Ideas ?  I personally think the whole idea with the Mk1 Brakes is a bit    with them rods accross the bulkhead etc….

I'm pretty sure it's just a matter of getting it all warm, etc… and then adjusting (lots of, hours and hours!!)  

When the brakes are cooled again, they are fine, not sticking on/binding.

Let me know your thoughts !
And feel free to visit my website, www.alexallingham.co.uk

I'll post some pics of my friends Mk1 soon now ive discovered this forum

he can't have spaced it right the brakes are draging the warmer they get the more they'll drag, need to sort the centre shaft out, if it is the wrong clevis pin the mk1 has a pin hole for the return spring the mk2 don't think they r different lenths too!

Hi Thanks for your reply.

Spoke about it last night, After a re-think, and a quick measure up, at first he spaced it with two nuts (16mm) and the brakes were total crap, knocked it down to one nut, and they are better but binding when warm (one nut=8mm) so our calulations are if it's spaced out another 2mm it should be able to be adjusted.

Figured out the nuts are 8mm thick. Hence 10mm needs to come off the shaft, so if he space's it another 2mm, should be same as cutting it.

Also, he's pretty certain he did swap the clevis pin off the Mk1, as he couldnt get the Mk2 one to fit onto the levery type thing.

If it helps I think if you swap the clevis off the mk1 and just wind it right onto the thread on the mk2 servo it'll be in the right place, at least it was when I last did it!

Thanks mate

stew72 said

If it helps I think if you swap the clevis off the mk1 and just wind it right onto the thread on the mk2 servo it'll be in the right place, at least it was when I last did it!

Same here, I'm sure the only reason to cut the end of the thread off is so it doesn't foul anything

theDaddyUK said

stew72 said

If it helps I think if you swap the clevis off the mk1 and just wind it right onto the thread on the mk2 servo it'll be in the right place, at least it was when I last did it!

Same here, I'm sure the only reason to cut the end of the thread off is so it doesn't foul anything

Yes, the thread will poke through between the forks and foul the clevis pin.