16v Kr Cutting out after being rev'd up, Help Please,

Getting a bit stressed out now lol!

Got my 16v conversion running, after a full engine rebuild, its starts well enough for cold.

Had a play with the idle and mixture etc, and it ticks over nicely from cold, and then settles down as it warms up etc.

But as soon as I rev it a bit, as the revs drop back down it just stalls, no sign of trying to come back to idle?

When it has stalled, it's a pain to re start, and will only start, by giving it some blips on the trottle pedal?

Also I dumped the oil out already because it had petrol mixed with it. I thought this maybe due to restarting it and petrol getting into the oil, but then this is only beause it a pain to restart from hot, well hot-ish. Could this be leaking injectors etc?

Further info to help,

I'm running the k-jet from the mk2 donar car (87' golf), and a aux air valve from a mk1 gti instead of a ISV. I have removed the trottle stop switches that were on the mk2 loom.

Is there anythink wiring wise that could cause problems, as im using a mk2 k-jet loom?

All help much apprcatied as always  :wink:

Cheers

Pete.

I've had a bit more of a think and spoke with a mate, and remembered the m/head flap being stiff to move, like it was getting stuck so im going to look into this, could be as you rev it, it releases the flap, but as it falls it jams and won't let enough air through to idle, stalls the engine and floods the engine until you rev it to release the flap agian?

Will see if this is the case.

Pete

had a similar problem with mine, would start and idle but when i gave it revs it cut out, cleaning the metering head seemed to get rid of the problem but then the engine stalled the other day when the car was out on the road  and then wouldn't restart at all turned out to be the hall sender (soaked with oil) on the dizzy, replaced that today and the car is running again.

Doddsy said

had a similar problem with mine, would start and idle but when i gave it revs it cut out, cleaning the metering head seemed to get rid of the problem but then the engine stalled the other day when the car was out on the road  and then wouldn't restart at all turned out to be the hall sender (soaked with oil) on the dizzy, replaced that today and the car is running again.

Cheers for the reply Doddsy, will add this to my list of things to check.

The m/head flap is stuck, I can free it by lifting it with a magnetic pick up tool on the bolt in the middle of the airflap plate, but not by hand, (gripping on the bolt, to lift the flap by hand).

Pretty sure this is not right :?

Pete.

the reason it does this is probably because you are not using the ISV controller, the 16v has an over-run valve which stops this very thing from happening. what the valve does is 'catch' the revs at about 2k rpm, and makes them fall smoothly, preventing it from cutting out.  The only way to work around this is to raise the base idle up a wee bit, or fit the proper 16v isv control stuffs.

rubjonny said

the reason it does this is probably because you are not using the ISV controller, the 16v has an over-run valve which stops this very thing from happening. what the valve does is 'catch' the revs at about 2k rpm, and makes them fall smoothly, preventing it from cutting out.  The only way to work around this is to raise the base idle up a wee bit, or fit the proper 16v isv control stuffs.

Cheers John for the reply, I was hoping I could run the Aux' Air valve as my friend did with his conversion? I'm also running a lightened flywheel also, which probaly dosen't help the idle issue.

I have been checking over the k jet system and noticed, that after it has stalled, and I leave it, and come back a day later the metering head flap is stuck down, using a magnet I can pull it up, and there is a resistance until I reach full travel. When I let go it drops down it falls with no resistance and when you pull it up agian there is no resistance. Is this because I have pushed the fuel out that was built up under the pressure of the accumaltor?

I ask this because I read about the plunger sticking in the metering head, but apart from this initial resistance mentioned above, (which maybe normal), it feels smooth, and not rough as decribed if it was at fault.

Cheers

Pete.

the aux valve is literally just a replacement for the ISV itself, the 8v k-jet has no equivilant of the over-run cutoff you can use.

what you describe sounds about right with the metring head, when you 1st lift it there will be resistance from the built up fuel pressure I belive? Not actually tried this. as long as the resistance is smooth and even its probably fine

Its because its too rich - lean it out and that characteristic will disappear.

rubjonny said

the aux valve is literally just a replacement for the ISV itself, the 8v k-jet has no equivilant of the over-run cutoff you can use.

what you describe sounds about right with the metring head, when you 1st lift it there will be resistance from the built up fuel pressure I belive? Not actually tried this. as long as the resistance is smooth and even its probably fine

Cool I thought this was the case, oh well rules it out I guess.

paul_c said

Its because its too rich - lean it out and that characteristic will disappear.

Yeah I was going to lean it right off and adjust it back from there.

I'm also going thro checking for vac leaks etc,

Going thro the timing etc, going to check 5th injector, for operation and if it leaks, plus the injectors.

Cheers agian for the help

Pete.