16v donor/conversion

ive been offered a mk3 2.0 16v 4dr dirt cheap, the question is !!! what parts are any good ??? would the engine go in and what about the rear calipers or is it all a waste of time ??? cheers for any help

Engine makes a good conversion. The rear callipers are also good. Not sure about gearbox, but a mk1 gti one will fit. Not sure what else is good to keep for the mk1.
But the ABF engine is a good conversion

nice one cheers mate, is it an easy coversion ??? what about the ecu do you have any idea what job it is to convert ??? cheers

It is probably as easy as an engine conversion could be. Although it took me about 4 months. Im running mine on k-jet.
To do this you will need the mk2 16v metering unit, ecu, ignition loom.
You can use the mk3 injection system but im not sure how tricky this is.

if you can do wiring keep the mk3 injection system. if you cant, use a mk2 injection system. be aware the k-jet inlet sits higher, and due to the MK3 16v being a taller block it can cause bonnet clearance issues. the MK3 inlet will fit under there ok.

CrazyNick said

It is probably as easy as an engine conversion could be. Although it took me about 4 months. Im running mine on k-jet.
To do this you will need the mk2 16v metering unit, ecu, ignition loom.
You can use the mk3 injection system but im not sure how tricky this is.

so what did injection system did you use ??? i dont mean to act stupid !! but why cant i use the injection system off the mk1 ??? ive seen in the engingine conversion section there is bonnet contact issues !!! but easy fix..any ideas what these are ???

the mk1 stuff is mostly wrong, fuel line lengths wrong, etc.

KR stuff is waht you use, though some of the mk1 bits will work ok, random hoses, pump and under car lines etc.

I use the mk2 16v metering unit, i think it runs at a different pressure to the mk1 one. I think you can use the mk1 1.6 gti metering head but not sure.
Also if you can get a scirroco inlet manifold it will make the conversion easyer. But they are very rare. If not you will have to bend the fuel lines over to the other side of the engine bay and relocate the metering unit to the otherside too.
So realy you need the mk2 16v metering head and injectors.
I never had any clearance issues with the bonnet.

you dont need to bend anything, just buy some decent high pressure rubber fuel hose.  :wink:

well thx for the response guys, is there any probs regarding the ecu off the mk3 ???? i dont want to act stupid but all this is new to me !!! ive always stayed with std whatever ive done !! so cheers for the advice  :wink:

deanpompey said

you dont need to bend anything, just buy some decent high pressure rubber fuel hose.  :wink:

Yes this is probably a better idea. Thinking of replacing mine anyway

as above, if you keep the metal fuel lines then you'll have to bend them over to the driver side, if you bin them then you can get proper conversion lines from crazyquiff designed for k-jet 16v MK1 applications.  Be very carefull if you decide to make your own lines as k-jet works on a very high pressure unlike normal EFI, so the ends need to be very well made.  Also have a good look at your old lines, chances are they'll be badly corroded towards the back. mine were in a shocking state!

If you decide to go with the MK3 managment then its not such a big deal, the fuel pressures are much lower.

If you go k-jet I'd just use the 16v metering head, as its designed for the application. While its true the MK1 1.6 metering head is supposed to deliver more fuel than the 1.8 8v one, I dont think it offers anything over a std 16v one.  Either way you go, make sure you at least use the 16v air flap assembly, as the bowl is larger than the 8v items and the air cone profile has been designed with the 16v in mind.

Just use the efi it so much easier the messing about with k jet and it cheaper because you have everything you need on the mk3. the wiring is simple just power for the ecu and another for the fuel pump. the ecu needs a signal from the starter and the rest is your warning lights and dash clocks. i have the wiring diagram for the abf engine somewhere. there are no colour changes in the wiring loom so as long as you look at everything carefully its simple.

cheers for that mate, ive seen a thread showing the wireing diagram but cant find it now, if i use the mk3 ecu how do i get round the imobiliser ??? is this in the ecu ???

ECU:
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vagcom:
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immobilisor:
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If you get a pre 95 ECU it wont have an immobiliser in it.  If you do get an immobilised ecu, what you need is a matched key and transponder box from any immobiliser equipped MK3 or other VAG car of the same era.  It doesnt have to be matched to the ECU, the important thing is you get a matched key and transponder box.

Once you have these you can match them to your ECU with VAG-COM, if you want to match a new key then you need an SKC code which can only be done by VW.