1.8 8v engine

right ive done a search on this and its still eluding me what i should do with my engine.
ive got ?1500.00 saved up and i was going to get a daily driver other than the mk1 but my mates convinced me to put it in my mk1.
so ive been quoted ?700.00 to do a full engine rebuild which i think is a bargain.
but would could i do with the rest?
i want to make it faster but not 1/4 mile fast.
just want something where its very nippy and always puts a smile to my face when foots to the floor.
so come on paul_c and m7r you both know your stuff from all the other posts you have both contributed too.
i challenge you to try and make me understand what to do

many thanks

1.8 16V engine
42mm inlet manifold
top end rebuild and replace cam belt and intercam chain
decent full exhaust system
decent setup on a rolling road

Should just about be possible with ?1500, if you're not paying labour charges (except for the rolling road session).

what would be best to do to the enigine ive already got though dont fancy the 16v personally

16V is much a better breathing engine as the revs rise, which is the main thing which adds performance, this is due to its having 8 more valves. With ?1500 you'll be able to do SOMETHING to the 8V but once you get into replacement cams, etc then really you're sacrificing low down torque for headline bhp, achieved at high rpm. The 16V is more torquey at low revs than the 8V and they're plentiful, so with enough money (and ?1500 should be) its a more sensible starting point.

The question really is what can you get for ?800 isn't it?  :dontknow: Hmmmmm, personally i'd go for a 4 branch, full system and presuming your running injection go for a panel filter in your original air box with a cold air feed. Also you could look into getting it chipped. I bought a chiped ecu for my mk2 8v a while back and that alone made a difference straight away, not only in performance-120mph 4's up and still pulling!  8O  but had a substantial effect on econemy aswell-was getting 400 miles to a tank of fuel!  
If your running carbs then maybe look into getting motorbike carbs, gsx-r ones are usely quite popular. There is a company up north called 'bogg brothers' and they will fabricate your exact inlet manifold requirements and if you send them the carbs for size and measurement will at the same time strip down, clean and rebuild your carbs.
Hope you find of sum use  :?

Chuckie said

The question really is what can you get for ?800 isn't it?  :dontknow: Hmmmmm, personally i'd go for a 4 branch, full system and presuming your running injection go for a panel filter in your original air box with a cold air feed. Also you could look into getting it chipped. I bought a chiped ecu for my mk2 8v a while back and that alone made a difference straight away, not only in performance-120mph 4's up and still pulling!  8O  but had a substantial effect on econemy aswell-was getting 400 miles to a tank of fuel!  
If your running carbs then maybe look into getting motorbike carbs, gsx-r ones are usely quite popular. There is a company up north called 'bogg brothers' and they will fabricate your exact inlet manifold requirements and if you send them the carbs for size and measurement will at the same time strip down, clean and rebuild your carbs.
Hope you find of sum use  :?

The problem is, those items you listed don't add any power. The GTI exhaust manifold is already a 4-2-1 design and very efficient, so its difficult to improve upon. Similarly the air filter is well specified and an aftermarket one, while might add power to other cars, doesn't on a Mk1 Golf GTI. The GTI doesn't have an ECU to its not possible to change the fuelling by chipping it. And twin carbs on an 8V are limited by heatsoak issues and counterflow head design so typically never gain power, but cause running issues (which can be overcome but not to the point of improving power over the fuel injection).

this is where i disagree paul, the stock manifolds pants!!!

if you want a nippy daily then follow the route I went:

stainless 4-2-1 manifold (better for midrange torque than a 4-1) and heat wrap it, ?150 - ?200

fit a cam - I had a newmans 280deg cam in mine, pulled well from 1500 rpm and would do 30 in 5 all day long! but when it got to 3K it picked up and 4K it flew!! also for the newmans they are timed as OE so no need for a vernier pulley - ?200

then fit a 16V warm up reg for extra fueling at full throttle, again not much can be had for ?30-60.

a good free flowing exhaust system, ?200 or so depening on if stainless or not, I recommend Jetex, as I love mine.

Audi 5 cylinder throttle body and port the inet manifold to match - ?10 from the scrappy / ebay for the throttle and portings easy with grinding stones and drill.

then its little things:

like a windage tray to help control oil froth at high revs - ?30 from ebay for a full sized one.

KN pannel filter and a proper cold air feed to the box - DONT DRILL THE BOX!!!!!

engine oil breather vented to atmosphere and then clean out the metering head and the air filter of oil gunk and reset the mixture as it will be too rich now, plus oil vapour lower the fuel RON rating  :wink:

tune to run on super unleaded, so ing advance to 6deg, not 0 as used for 95 unleaded.

then if your still flush budget ?300-500 for a new sylinder head, depening if you have it just ported and polished or have a larger exhaust valve too..

with a big valve head and the above mods you should be running 140-150bhp and wedge of torque but still happy as a daily driver.

140 to 150 bhp which youll just about get from a 16v without all that work

Great thread..

Its nice to see someone trying to play with the 8V rather than doing a swap, M7R that is a great list, its's given me a starting point now also.

M7R- I am very intested in what you have done with your engine you got any "how to do" thread on some of the work you have done!

awesome thread  8O