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1.6 GTi Metering head

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1.6 GTi Metering head

What's so good about it that it's considered an upgrade?



2 1983 Campains (concours & track)
1985 Blue GTi Ragtop
2001 Bora Estate TDi SE (very very rare)
2000 Golf TDI commuter
2005 T5 Transporter with 394000 miles on it!

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gives a better afr up top

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1800 metering head:





1600 metering head:



Both on a 9A engine, though. It might work out (due to the different VE of the 8V 1.8 engine) that the AFR doesn't follow the above trends, and in fact the 1600 metering head might just make the engine run lean at low throttle/low RPM and go into rich misfire limit (somewhere around <10 AFR) at WOT. Someone would have to do a back-to-back on an 1800 8V engine to be sure!

                                

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Well I've just found one for my 2.0 8V DX so we shall see



2 1983 Campains (concours & track)
1985 Blue GTi Ragtop
2001 Bora Estate TDi SE (very very rare)
2000 Golf TDI commuter
2005 T5 Transporter with 394000 miles on it!

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my friend had a 1600 metering head on his mildly tuned cabby,it packed up, so he put the original metering head back on and he says he can't feel any difference in performance

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I couldn't feel the difference either, but it showed up in comparative 1/4 mile runs.

                                

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well my m8 is a bit of a hooligan and if he can't feel it,then it isn't there lol! i don't suppose the metering heads make any difference to the way the engine revs does it? because his engine is REALLY keen to rev now

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ummmmm, yes they do.
cos more power is produced, the revs will rise faster (car accelerates faster)

                                

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It hasn't made any difference to mine, especially as it's currently sitting in the centre console! I've been too busy with work to get round to fitting it, I will report back once it's in though :)



2 1983 Campains (concours & track)
1985 Blue GTi Ragtop
2001 Bora Estate TDi SE (very very rare)
2000 Golf TDI commuter
2005 T5 Transporter with 394000 miles on it!

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I just swapped mine back, it didn't do anything you'd notice, I didn't change it for the performance, I changed it cause my car was highly reving and wanted to rule it out as a problem.

1986 Cabriolet (long resto!)
1983 Cabriolet (daily pain in the bum)
1983 T25 (weekend pain in the bum)

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Well I finally got round to fitting it yesterday, it needed a good 1/2 turn inwards on the mixture screw before the car would start!

Initial impressions are that it picks up quicker when blipped while stationary
Driving it pulls harder over 3500rpm, not sure if it pulls less below that or the difference is bigger making it feel like it's lost low end power, I will have to do so more driving to see.



2 1983 Campains (concours & track)
1985 Blue GTi Ragtop
2001 Bora Estate TDi SE (very very rare)
2000 Golf TDI commuter
2005 T5 Transporter with 394000 miles on it!

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are you going to be getting it rolling roaded?

would be nice to see some figures and share with the guys  :wink:

we're all suckers for whats on paper!  :roll:

'69 MG Midget 1275 (currently restoring, cammed and ported head) '81 Lhasa 1600 GTi - kent GS25 (294) cam, full supersprint mani back, filter, 2.2 throttle body '82 Audi 80 Sport '97 20VT Passat (AEB with a 57i) '84 Silver Campaign - DX but AEB coming

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At some point yes :)



2 1983 Campains (concours & track)
1985 Blue GTi Ragtop
2001 Bora Estate TDi SE (very very rare)
2000 Golf TDI commuter
2005 T5 Transporter with 394000 miles on it!

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you could do with getting it hooked up to a wideband to see how rich it is up top

i think pauls was pretty rich up top and on idle

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Yeah, its always possible you've swung from too-lean to too-rich, with the net same performance. As a general rule, nothing on the fuel injection of a Mk1 Golf GTI is a simple bolt on upgrade - at the very least, you need to measure the mixture and reset it. Mixture at idle is a very crude method, you ideally need to measure at WOT and part throttle driving conditions too - hence rolling roads.

                                

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So the metering head from my old 1600 gti engine is maybe worth more than i thought...! hmm :D I belive that power on na is at the 12.5afr figure, so i guess you want it near there. Plugs will tell you all you need to know after 100miles! The back to back test is always going to be argued as one will be less transmission loss from warmth of getting on straight away from the road, one will have a buggered bosch unit that wasnt set up etc etc

1982 1.8T-20v-GtEfi. K03S. Megasquirt. 16v Servo + MS. Relayed lights. Mk3 Wiper Motor… Getting too Reliable!
With thanks Eddie-Toyotec, Ben-Bens_cab, Brian-Broke and the Mk1 Owners Club! 211Bhp, should get 250 on next map!

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paul_c said

at the very least, you need to measure the mixture and reset it.
Indeed, I had to richen it up by half a turn before it would start!
Currently the idle CO is 1.5%, do you think I should have it richer Paul?



2 1983 Campains (concours & track)
1985 Blue GTi Ragtop
2001 Bora Estate TDi SE (very very rare)
2000 Golf TDI commuter
2005 T5 Transporter with 394000 miles on it!

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juz said

paul_c said

at the very least, you need to measure the mixture and reset it.
Indeed, I had to richen it up by half a turn before it would start!
Currently the idle CO is 1.5%, do you think I should have it richer Paul?

Ideally you need to measure it at WOT, which isn't going to be possible with a conventional gas analyser. You'll need a wideband lambda probe and a rolling road/drive fir this.

                                
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