WUR HELP NEEDED

Hello guys I'm having cold start issues in the morning, I was told there is a gauze filter located at the larger banjo, now the question is if I undo both banjos on the WUR and blow compressed air in to the larger banjo whilst still on the car would any dirt blow back out the smaller banjo or would it end up going somewhere else, and would it be ok to clean the gauze giltet whilst on the car or does ithe WUR have to be removed from the car to clean all help is greatly appreciated in advance thanks

The WUR is held on with 2 bolts - if you've gone to effort of disconnecting the fuel lines, I'd take it off the car so you can give it a proper clean. Personally I'd remove the gauze and clean it. I wouldn't use compressed air as you may dmage the guaze/something else.

There is a vid on youtube by RetroVW where he cleans the gauze on his WUR whilst setting his k-jet pressure (it's a 16v mk2 but the principle is identical).

Thanks, I been looking in to cold starting  and the thermotime switch and 5th injector, and today in the morning I disconnected the 5th injector connector and tried to start it but it wasn't having it so once I put the connector back on the car started, will this rule both the thermotime switch and 5th injector to be ok , apologies if I'm not on the right path but just trying to eliminate if the 5th injector and thermotime switch is ok thanks in advance

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The Wur doesnt have much effect on cold starting. The 5th injector is critical to get the engine started when cold. Only once its started if the Wur gauze is blocked giving wrong (high) pressure it'll try and stall when you rev it when cold. Once the engine starts to warm it won't be so obvious as the high control pressure comes into line with the warm engine.
Is it taking a long time to start? As in lots of cranking?

What it does is, first thing in morning when I turn the key it starts then cuts out it does this 2/3 times before starting during this process it's just turning the key no pressing the accelerator pedal, once it started it sounds ok bit rough but not majorly bad, the rpm needle is just under 1000 rpm, and the battery light is on, I then press the accelerator pedal, to let the battery light go out, then after this the revs drops around 700-800 and as it warms up it increase but just sits under the.. 0.. on the 10 on the rpm clock , after this I let the car warm up and it behaves well after switching it off and restarting it , it seems all good the rpm needle sits below the 1000 mark, I did have a issue few months back where it not want to start after it was warm and sitting for a few minutes for example filling up at the petrol station, but this was sorted out once I cleaned the pins on the fuel relay, but now it's mornings that are a pain not to much but be nice to just turn the key once and boom it's alive, lol I know it's 38 and even I struggle to get our of bed in the morning but it be good to have a day that it will start with the first turn of the key,

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The WUR helps decrease the fuel pressure for cold start so that the air sense plate can lift easily giving you a leaner mixture. As the bimetallic plate warms up, the diaphragm closes and the fuel pressure starts to increase. Low fuel pressure is critical for cold start. Best to hook up a pressure guage, get a stop watch to time the pressure increase and see if it matches the Haynes manual figures. If pressure is high at cold start then issue with WUR. May be blockage somewhere.

KMI injection can overhaul the unit to factory settings