Water leak

Evening all, after a bit of help please ? Just been trying to sort the temperature gauge out and noticed a very slight water leak. I have taken a picture of it, can’t really tell if it’s the plastic adapter that’s split or possibly just where it bolts to the head. Before i strip it off are these prone to splitting / failing or is it more likely just needing a gasket ? Thanks


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Ok forget that, just answered my own question, quick wiggle and it fell into two pieces ! Time for a new one I think.


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Just had the plastic thermostat housing swapped under warranty on my daily driver Fester. When will manufacturers stop using plastic parts on engines. There is 30+ years experience that its doesn't work from flanges to water pump impellors. Cost accountants not engineers running the show……..  

Yeh it was a daft question now I think about it ! Plastic is never going to last long in those conditions. I’m used to old air cooled stuff and don’t get this problem.


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Early cars used metal flanges on the head so not so much of a problem.

Make sure the new flange comes with a rubber O ring, give the face of the head a good clean and make sure it's nice and smooth before fitting the new flange.
 
Don't go mad tighten up the nuts/bolts as there is a metal insert in the flange to stop you crushing it, your more likely strip the thread in the head.

Depending on what coolant you are using and how old it is good time for a coolant change?

Thanks will take that on board, I drained the coolant last night and was surprised it was antifreeze yellow with no signs of rust. Going to put fresh coolant in anywAy when I refill


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This is why I started the thread I Still Hate Plastic Parts.

There are 2 ways to go about this, buy two and carry one in your boot.

They only take 87 in/lbs of torgue on the flanges.
to hold them to the block, no more no less, no magic torque elbow.

I went so far as to use a bead of RTV between the o-ring and the outer flange area to no avail, they would eventually fail.

Some "Chinese" plastic is worse than others and it is a
carpshoot as to which type that you get. I did find that there was a supplier over here ALTRON that imported ones in from Ireland, and they seemed (or was it my Irish Distraction) to last a tad longer than the "Chinese Versions".

It is engine vibration, heat and coolant flow that weakens them, the one on the transmission side of the head usually distorts or ovals, and the t-stat warps.
The Digifants just flat out break, lets face it, it was engineering re-work by bean counting. The Bean Counters should be hung by their nether regions, with wire, fed a laxative, then handed a dull serrated knife, as they don't need to reproduce, and should feel our pain.

My 81 Diesel Golf/Rabbit had all metal flanges, and they never failed. Because the metal ones caused the rubber hoses to take the vibration load and not the plastic ones that took the load for the hoses.  Face it under engine vibration, heat, and torque which is going to fail quicker plastic that becomes brittle, or the rubber hose.

What I did was scour the Breakers over here for my Digi's to find older Diesel Rabbits, and remove the T-stat, and rear water flanges, I was smart enough to get 4 of each.  The one that stumped me was the Digi CTS/Temp sender, but talking with a few folks I found that the 16V CTS sender and oil temp single pin was a direct swap, so I could substitute the 16V non-oil cooler metal flange.  Then German Auto Parts over here started to sell re-makes or the end run of the metal t-stat flanges, and I quickly bought two of those, when I mentioned it in the forum on the Vortex, they sold out in a month. Sure they were pricey, 25 bucks each, but I have piece of mind, and metal flanges that won't break.

So here I link the why I hate plastic parts thread, and what I did on my Digi's to get around then breaking, warping and generally causing me Grief in the middle of the night or 50 miles from home.

I still hate plastic parts, but thanks Tolusina. | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum