Mk1 running badly with choke all the way out

Please help with this issue, dunno what it could be, only just did an oil change but doubt it would be that 

A little more info may help,
When was it last serviced, Plug, HT leads, dissy cap, rotor arm?
Has it does this before?
What is the fuel filler neck like?
Is there any bits in the fuel filter and when was it last changed?
Which carb do you have, Webber or original Pierburg?
  

Yoo

I've got a similar problem at the minute to what you are describing.

Thought it was initially a fuel starvation/carb issue but I'm now thinking its electrical as the problem with stuttering only happens when the engine is under load (when in neutral I can freely rev the car without it missing a beat). Firstly, I changed the dizzy cap and rotor arm, problem still persists, I am now thinking Ht leads and Ignition coil, so I have ordered them up and gonna give changing those for new ones a go.

I will let you know if the new parts fix the problem!

Only got it on Saturday so vague service history, I know the previous owner did a basic service oil change distributor cap etc but nothing to do with HT leads.
Will check fuel filter tomorrow, could it be a carburetor problem? Perhaps it's blocked somehow or just has something flying around in it.
It does have original pierburg carbs at the moment but hoping to get Weber carbs soon. Strange how the Revs completely drop when I put the clutch in to change down gear even when I'm going 50ish but it doesn't happen every time only now and again. When it happens and I come to a stop and it's idling really low like nearly stalling the revs will come back up really slowly and then it won't happen again for another 10 minutes 

Sounds exactly like how mine is running. Mine is already running a Weber carb and it has been running absolutely fine for the last few months I've owned the car.
I fitted the new HT leads and ignition coil before when I got back from work but to no avail, the same problem persists. I'm thinking now it has to be a carb/fuelling issue so am going to have a play with the mixture. I have also read somewhere that it could be being caused by a leak in the vacuum system from the vacuum advance??? 

I'll research the vacuum stuff a bit more and I'll let you know if anything works. Let me know if playing with the mixture helps at all and I'm also going to try clearing out the carbs

You had much luck yet? I managed to find time this morning to have a good look at the vacuum system. I sprayed gt85 around the carb and vacuum system joints to see if the revs went up when the car was idling but didn't notice any differences.
I did notice that where my brake servo pipe attached to the inlet manifold it had been bodged with a new non standard peice of rubber tubing and upon removing found loose bits of the rubber pipe inside (perished).. don't know whether this could be my problem? Does anyone know what relation a problem with the tubing between my manifold and brake servo would be to the running of the car? I am going to replace the incriminating peice of pipe work regardless but would be good if it fixed my problem at the same time! 

Hi,
Just a long shot:
Try disconnecting a flexible part of the fuel line in near the carb' and carefully blowing back towards the tank. It should be an easy blow and you should hear bubbling from the tank area. Mine was almost completely blocked by rubbish and after a big hard blow  it then suddenly freed and all was good after, but need to clean out tank/pipe if this was the symptom. I had similar problems to yours, and like you,. thought it was electrical.

Couple of points you may or may not know.

First leaking servo pipe will be a big issue for both running the engine and more importantly stopping !!!  It will cause the mixture to run lean as extra air is getting into the system after the carbs and if someone has made it richer to compensate then this will mean it is too rich when the choke is out.

One post mentioned doing 50 with choke issues. I would expect the engine to be warm enough not to need choke by this speed.

If plugs are recent check the gap or if old change them. Plugs work much harder in the cold as with all the extra wet fuel coming in they can get flooded a little so if the have a wide gap and weak spark then it will not help at low revs as the fuel will effectively smother the spark at low revs due to richer running.

Dizzy Ht etc all mentioned good plan but the low cost options mentioned may help in the shorter term.


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have a look at my post in here:
View topic: daily driver - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

Have had no luck yetHad a proper look at it on Saturday, got a tin of carb cleaner and sprayed quite a bit in as it did look a little gunky in there but nothing that wouldn't be expected, changed the idle speed as it was idling a bit too fast, couldn't find the mixture screws, I have heard of some carbs being blanked so you can't mess with the mixture of it? its an original pier burg carb I'm pretty sure. checked the spark plugs and they're new but they were dead black so its running really rich but this could be because I have to run with the choke out often because of it stalling and stuttering when accelerating? Rotor arm is also new, HT leads are fine, will have a look at the gaps on Saturday again. Put in a bottle of redeem also to try clean out as much as possible but has had no effect  to the stalling problem. Also would anyone know what engine code it would be? its a 1.8 from 1989 and its manual, from a cabby obviously.

if its the original 2e2 for a start it shouldnt have a manual choke so that has been added to bodge around another issue most likely, rather than actually fix it properly.

most of the checks in here will still apply if its otherwise untouched, the idle and mixture adjustments are the last thing you mess with on these make sure its 100% tip top before you do that:
http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=14917

have a look at the flange and steady bracket as per the above links anyway though. also these carbs are sensitive to cold weather so you really need the warm air feed system to be 100% working otherwise it'll cut out. theres a warm air feed pipe from the bottom of the airbox to a shroud round the exhaust manifold make sure that side is all good. then in the domed bit on the airbox theres a flap which should open when the carb is running, if you remove the inlet pipe to it you can see inside

I've got it! Taken 3 weeks but I've got it! rubjonny you were correct, even though I'm sure I had already checked all around the carb. 

The rubber mount between my inlet manifold and where my Weber fitment kit starts has split down one side but isn't noticeable when still or on idle, however, when under load (or when I move the carb around by hand) you can see the split on one side. 

Touch wood, once this is replaced it works again haha 

Ah nice one, could it still be a similar problem even though I'm pretty sure mine isn't a weber carb? Can't find any type of code or writing anywhere on the carb

it is possible that yours may also be broken. The rubber mount is an original part and is used even when fitting a Weber carb so it could well be yours is the same even if you still have the original carb on. Only cost me £17 with delivery from VW heritage for the new part. Once I've got the carb off the car I will take some pictures and try and upload them for you. 

Ah yeah I see, cheers mate that would be great. Got a few pictures of it just to see if you can tell from that 

I never liked the idea of running rubber fuel lines above the hot manifold and engine so I re routed mine so they run around the side.
Also in the last picture with your fuel filter there is a normal jubilee clip used, it better to use a fuel line clamp as they clamp all the way around while jubilee clips only clamp 1 side and you can get a fuel leak and that's not a good idea where your fuel lines are running!

Fuel pipe clamp looks like this, lots of places sell them, link just a picture.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-FUEL-LINE-JUBILEE-HOSE-CLIP-CLAMP-DIESEL-PETROL-PIPE-ALL-SIZES-IN-STOCK-/300709654222

And yes that's a Webber carb.

Picture of how I've routed my fuel lines and filter but it's on a Mk1 Scirocco so other bits a carb very slightly different from yours.

Ah cheers mate thanks for the tip will definitely look into that as engine bay is the first thing I'm gonna be working at as soon as i sort this carb problem

IT WORKED!
Put the new flange on yesterday and its been running spot on since, thank you for the suggestion, so glad its done so now I can get on with other stuff.

Good news…