One rear fog light out / cam cover earth wire

Just putting finishing touches to Campaign.

O/S rear fog light won't work - changed bulbs several times and checked fittings which seem ok 

Could understand if both didn't work - wondering if it's the metal circuit itself on the light fitting - thought I'd checked everything but nothing obvious.

The reverse lights don't work neither after cleaning contacts on the multi plug and connection under expansion . I'll swop the reverse switch as have a spare.

Also is the cam cover earthing wire  a Brown/White or solid brown ?  I've a brown/white wire connected at moment as this was free and was dangling with end broken. I fitted a loop crimp and bolted it between two washers on to the cam cover bolt.

Always the last few little annoyances test your patience.
Was hoping to get it motd for summer .

What I have done in the past is to wire all my rear Tail/Turn/Marker lights to Frame ground on one of the Bumper Bolts in the Trunk.  I use the left side for the left lights, and the Right side for the right lights.  all it takes is one large Ring connector and a a single wire up to join all the Ground to with Solder and heat shrink.  Easy cost effective improvement.

I thought there was only 1 light which had a fog light (drivers side) and the other side was blank.
The fog lights are the same brightnesses as the brake lights so it's easier to see when your braking if there only 1 fog light.

Rear fog light is working on N/S but nothing O/S.

Agree if just working O/S wouldn't look any further as like yourself thought there'd only be 1 on the O/S and no N/S 🤷🏼‍♂️.

I've took the cam cover earth off and cleaned it all up around it - seemed to be some muck and oily surface around the head I'm bolting the earth wire to, so see if that does anything - can't harm things.

Well took a feed from back of working rear n/s fog to o/s so all sorted with that.

   Horn now working with satisfactory loudness - good cleaning up of contacts and tuning screws so sorted that.

Ordered new reverse light switch so try that when it comes

Just dashboard LCD and backlighting - power getting there as alternator and oil light coming on as are indicator and main beam light.

Can anyone confirm the wiring from coil bracket to cam cover. I've no earth wire from coil bracket but I have a brown/white (not solid brown) wire that I've put a connector on and fitted to the cam cover - is this right?

brown/white usually isn't ground.
Brown only.  You can just run a wire from the left rear valve cover nut to the coil bracket.

As I stated the blue/gray or Gray/blue wire on the connector is the Power to the dash lights via the head light switch brightness.  If your other gauges as in heater fascia has lamps then the issue is from the connector to the lamps possible the foil.

If none of the fascia control lamps light up, then you are looking at a headlight switch as IIRC there isn't a separate fuse on that circuit on the earlier Golfs.

Thanks Briano

Your font of knowledge knows no boundaries 😄

I'll take an earth from the coil bracket to the rocker cover.

Begs the question what the brown/white is 🤔. I'll have a look at the Haynes manual tonight 

Earth lead from coil bracket to head






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Great thanks - I'll sort something similar to your pic.

Question is then what brown/white wire do I have in engine bay and where is the brown earth wire - as can't see anything unless it's broken off in the sheathing somewhere 

The brown wire on my car is a earth for the instrument cluster, when it broke all,sorts of strange things happened like when I switched on my headlights the rev counter would drop by about 1,500 rpm and the warning lights would glow..

The brown wire runs in the loom with oil pressure sensor and I think the wiring for the dissy.

I've attached an earth wire from the coil bracket to the cam cover bolt to join with the brown/white wire I have  - hasn't seem to have made a difference to anything sadly. Got all excited earlier 😄.

However what I have noticed (and not saying it's since I've done this earth point) is that the rheostat on the light switch seems to give ignition live power as warning lights come on cluster 🤔 - getting weirder now.

I've padded out the tape on the foil on the instruments as Briano suggests but no difference to LCD power.

Any suggestions - new light switch ?