Golf 1 cabrio no fuel pump,no spark....

Hi to all, i am new here and i was happy to be here. I am Adam and i am from Slovakia.

My story:
I bought non-starting Golf 1 cabrio 1.8petrol

I see after ignition on i dont hear fuel pump and after cranking engine i dont have spark. I check all wires,relays and fuses + change spark,coil,cable on coil new ecu for ignition and i measure and do all test like was in document for Digifant I and II. If i brick fuel pump relay and turn ignition on i hear fuel pump this mean wires are good. But i dont have as i say fuel pump priming and spark. Can somebody help me where can be problem? Can be both problems inide engine ECU or somewhere else? Many Thanks for your help guys.

No prime to Fuel pump usually can be but not limited to:

Are you sure that you got your Coil hooked up correctly, and that the connections are tight?  The coil supplies voltage to the fuel pump relay, and to the ICM.  Verify that your Hall Generator (Connector on side of Distributor) is putting out high and low.  The Hall Generator Green/White wire Should go from HIGH 11 to 0VDC if that isn't working then you get no spark and no fuel pumps.  Use a DVOM to measure the high/low.

Put the engine at 0TDC
Place the negative lead from DVOM to Ground, Place the Positive lead on the Green/white wire.
Take care as the plastic connectors are brittle, remove it from the distributor, then remove the rubber boot.
Ignition switch to the First position (run not start).
19mm Wrench or socket, rotate the cam and watch the DVOM to cycle from 0 to 11 then back to 0… If it does this then your Hall Generator is good.
Concentrate on the Coil and connections.





Easy way to set timing is statically, no Strobe light needed all it takes is a DVOM.
Static Ignition Timing on VW A1 and A2 DigiFant Engines.


Corrosion in fuse box due to water migration.
Bad Fuel pumps yes there are 2 one in-
tank that is called a lift pump and one in front of rear axle.

You might want to check your ground Cable battery to frame and frame to engine.

I would suggest that you do the Residual fuel pressure tests, as if you don't have 45 psi to the injector rail then a weak pump or bad fuel pressure regulator could be your issue.

in the archive section I have a plethora of how to's on a 90 cabriolet

The difference in a Cabriolet on Digi 1 or Digi2 is the coil.  If you have a round coil on the fire wall then you have digi2 if you have a square coil pack then you have digi1.  I thought that the Digi 1 was only on California Cars in the U.S.  as the rest of the United States had Digifant II.  

Thanks for your answer.
I measure i think all what was in Digifant I & II test manual.
I see after turn ignition on i have on coil for few second voltage i think this is good.
But when i measure hall sender between pin 1 and 3 it was nothing…but all 3 wires was good from hall to ecu i measure it multiple times.
Fuse box i open and looks very clean no corosion.


I take pic of coil + hall please look.

Yes and i have Digifant II

No you measure from the green/white wire to ground for it to switch from 0-to-11V as you either rotate the distributor or rotate the came a inch or 3…. if you are rotating the dizzy, be sure you have it at 0TDC.
If the green/white wire isn't going from 0-to-11V then your issue is with the Diz.

From your coil you have a Digifant II.
The one coil wire looks a little fried.

Here is mine

Thanks, my english is poor can you plese say me what is "Diz"?


But i try disconnect centre cap from coil what go into hall sender…i put it into ground and try crank engine but no spark.

Diz is short for distributor.

noooooooo
Yopu take the rubber cap off, then take a Digital Volt Ohm meter on 20Vdc scale.  Take the Positive lead of the DVOM and  stick it in to the Green/white wire (you did reattach the plug after removing the rubber cap?)
Take the Negative lead from the meter to battery Ground.  The link that I gave you on Static Timing has Pictures on what I just described.



 

The melted coil wire would be something to investigate before continuing with the other steps,  I'd look at replacing it as it may be un-insulated and shorting out, but something has caused this to become very hot nonetheless, and likely the root cause of your issue. Briano1234 , great help again

You will find (I forgot to mention) that you also need to do the ICM test to see if the ICM is working. When you rotat the cam looking for the switch from 0-to-11 Volts, the fuel pump will prime

Best test I can tell you on determining the issue But if the Wire on your coil is Burned like that you probably need to find where the wire is good, and then replace it.
Since that is a Critical wire, I would use Solder and Heat shrink to repair it when adding new.

If you are going to use AMP (Crimp Connections then I also suggest that you invenst in a good pair of wire strippers with a Dimpled Crimp tool.



The Dimple in the Crimper squashes the connectors in the middle, and fully locks the wire in place, the position of the Crimper at the rear gives you a more powerfull crimp.

This type is from the 50's  and I still have a pair that I have as well I never throw away a tool
The crimp at the front looses power and doesn't crimp the wire very well but it was the go to tool decades ago.




more modern crimpers work well and I have gone through one or two of them.