Jetta mk1 fuel, temp, rev NOT working

Hi guys.. just got a Jetta MK1 1.6 carb.
Having a problem that the Fuel, temp and rev guages don't work (all dash lights, turn & handbrake lights, speedo & high beem lights work).
With the key turned but not running i only have the handbrake light on. Turn signal green light doesn't work but the light on the corner of the car do.
On start up I have much the same but the red oil light is on and also sometimes the red temp light.. nothing from the temp, fuel & rev guages.
It also has 3 Tim guages fitted that all work fine. (Oil pressure, amp & vac). Thes look to be wired into the cig lighter and T'ed into the senders.
I have looked and read up about a few things with no luck. So far i have re made the alt connectors & battery earths.
I did try and test the fuel sender and all i got then earthing the conector to the chassis was the oil light flickering and the temp light coming on and flashing.
I've also read that there is ment to be a earth strap from the coil to the rocker.. Mine isn't there as its had the gasket changed and the coil bracket looks to have been messed about with and spaced out to fit the bracket with a wood screw of all things..  Not sure if this has anything to do with it..
Last thing checked all the dash conectors are in place. One burnt out earth on the crown (near fues box) remade.
I have noticed that there are come conectors in the engine bay not fitted to anything. 1 is a earth thats in the same wire bundle as the temp & oil sender conectors, 2 conectors that come out od the coil wires and last of all 2 conectors that are near the coolant tank. Non of these look like they have been fitted to anything for years/ever very dirty and no fitting marks.

Any help or ideas where next to look would be great… Cheers guys.

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Check the following:

That you have 12V+ on the Black wire of your cluster, to the brown wire on your cluster (brown is earth).

Verify that with the Key on that your 10V Stabilizer is working that is the Middle leg is ground, and one leg is 12V+ in relation to the middle, and the other leg has 9.5-10V.  If you have 12V+ and Ground but no 10V then you have a bad Stabilizer.

If you are missing either the 12V+ or the Ground, that is why I mention that you should check the plug first so you know that the input is good.

If you have 12V and Ground on the connector, but missing one or the other at the Stabilizer, then you probably have a bad trace, and you will need to see which one you have, and you can back feed the 12V or ground, and or repair the Broken trace.  Be WARNED that the mylar Doesn't play well with solder, and that it tends to melt if you are not really fast and careful.

They make conductive glues that you can use and such.


In the Archive Section below, sub section How-to I have a thread on 92 Cabriolet fixes and I have a how to link to backfeeding the volts. Just click the link in my signature line.

The 10V stabilizer is flaky the right way can interfere with the Tach, but it directly is used to feed the Fuel and Water Gauge…

If the Stabilizer is bad you can either order one from the vender of your choice for 25-50 Bucks USD, or go to a Electronic parts store and pick up a FA7810AET for less than a Buck USD.

You will need what you save for your nerves afterwards with your favorite libation.

Also I have head of late that some of the fa-7810aet's are basackwards so if it doesn't work one way turn it upside down, and use some small washers to shim the screw.

Since they are cheap, I used to buy them for about 60cents usd, and ordered about 10 of them as the shipping was the same.

good luck,

Briano
 

Briano1234 said

Check the following:

That you have 12V+ on the Black wire of your cluster, to the brown wire on your cluster (brown is earth).

Verify that with the Key on that your 10V Stabilizer is working that is the Middle leg is ground, and one leg is 12V+ in relation to the middle, and the other leg has 9.5-10V.  If you have 12V+ and Ground but no 10V then you have a bad Stabilizer.

If you are missing either the 12V+ or the Ground, that is why I mention that you should check the plug first so you know that the input is good.

If you have 12V and Ground on the connector, but missing one or the other at the Stabilizer, then you probably have a bad trace, and you will need to see which one you have, and you can back feed the 12V or ground, and or repair the Broken trace.  Be WARNED that the mylar Doesn't play well with solder, and that it tends to melt if you are not really fast and careful.

They make conductive glues that you can use and such.


In the Archive Section below, sub section How-to I have a thread on 92 Cabriolet fixes and I have a how to link to backfeeding the volts. Just click the link in my signature line.

The 10V stabilizer is flaky the right way can interfere with the Tach, but it directly is used to feed the Fuel and Water Gauge…

If the Stabilizer is bad you can either order one from the vender of your choice for 25-50 Bucks USD, or go to a Electronic parts store and pick up a FA7810AET for less than a Buck USD.

You will need what you save for your nerves afterwards with your favorite libation.

Also I have head of late that some of the fa-7810aet's are basackwards so if it doesn't work one way turn it upside down, and use some small washers to shim the screw.

Since they are cheap, I used to buy them for about 60cents usd, and ordered about 10 of them as the shipping was the same.

good luck,

Briano
 

You are a star! Thanks for all that info.. loads for me to be getting on with.

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Any ideas what the stray cables in the engine bay are ment to be conected to or are they for items that come on a higher spec model??

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pictures or color of wires would be nice to know.  

Usually if they are Brown, they go to ground.

You also want to verify that you have a ground from the rear left hand as you look at the engine valve cover stud to the Coil bracket.

Briano1234 said

pictures or color of wires would be nice to know.  

Usually if they are Brown, they go to ground.

You also want to verify that you have a ground from the rear left hand as you look at the engine valve cover stud to the Coil bracket.

Just fitted a earth strap from the cover to the coil bracket. Also from the weber to the cover to be on the safe side.
I've since tested the conector on the clocks and its 12v. I put a volt meter across the 10v regulator and its only reading 0.02v. So thinking thats dead and the problem.. i've orded a new one

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These are the random wires that arn't fitted..
photo1 - looks like purple w/black stripe on same loom as temp & oil
Photo2 - twin wire brown & yellow. (Under coolant header tank
Photo3 - male connector red with white stripe / female connector looks to be black or brown.
Cant seem to find a home for these. Any help would be great

Jetta mk1 1.6 petrol carb. 1983


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Got some life out of the dash tonight.. re made the main conector & sat the soldered joints in resin so the don't short out. Just need to re conect the 10v reg and solder the dodgy tabs that it plugs into and it should be sorted.

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Briano1234 said

pictures or color of wires would be nice to know.  

Usually if they are Brown, they go to ground.

You also want to verify that you have a ground from the rear left hand as you look at the engine valve cover stud to the Coil bracket.

Any ideas with the stray wires in the photos up loaded??

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purple/black is for inlet manifold heater thermoswitch, spade type so would have been early inline switch in coolant hose to the side of the head. if you have a later engine in now its the 2 pin red thermoswitch in front flange.

2 pin is front fogs, and last red/white is for inlet manifold heater. the male spade next to it I cant see the wire colours