Mk1 does not starts

Hey guys, I'm from Colombia, my issue is this
On Sunday I took the car for cleaning the exterior and I've made some things in my hometown, that afternoon I took the car back to the garage and while I was backing up the engine stopped working, I tried to turn it on again but I only made that the battery lost the energy.
On Monday I tried again but I got nothing, today I check the fuse box and we spark everything it's ok, then I tried to look on the injectors but just a little bit of fuel went out when I opened the starter, anything that you guys can add for me? I'm sad it's my first car and I've finished the physical restoration just one month ago, the car went out of maintenance two weeks ago, I'm a little annoyed because I don't know what else to do.
thanks

The starter doesn't engage?  as the engine won't Crank, but does the Engine Crank but  never catches and runs.

First suspect is the ignition switch.
If you place the car in Neutral Parking Brake full on.

Turn the ignition switch to the run position not start.

Do you hear the fuel pumps prime, that is run for about 4 seconds. yes/no.

Once the engine has primed Jumper the Starters small pick wire to the Battery positive.  If it is the ignition switch the starter should spin and the car should run.

If the starter spins but the engine doesn't run, then I suspect the run side of the switch, as when you start the car the starter engages, and the starter side of the switch is directed back to the run side - the high loads, Load Reduction Relay (Heater blower, power windows, rear defrost, radio and headlights all cut out.)

Now if you cleaned the engine compartment with a pressure washer prior to this happening, then on a dark night, or cover the opened hood with a darK blanket

As some one inside the car tries to start it look about the high tension leads for Sparking Fairies dancing about the High Tension leads coil, Cap, Wires.  Look for Arcing between the HV leads metal jackets and the head.  If you see these then you need to eliminate them with Sand paper or a brass tooth brush.  These are called Carbon Tracks, and shunt the Spark from the Distributor to ground…  Once all are eliminated, then your car should start fine.

Also remove the Distributor cap with the heads attached and lightly sand the inside of the cap, and between the HV posts.

I have had to replace HV leads that were Arcing between the head and the wire at the metal outer jacket.

Update, I've discovered that the current that goes to the cap was negative on both connections I've change the cap but nothing happened, I'm curious does the switch haves a relay on the fuse box? If does which one is?
 

Which Cap.

The distributor if you have electronic ignition has a +12v, ground and a signal wire  on the plug of the Dist body.

If you have Points then you have a +12, and a ground to the dist body.

I don't know about early rabbits, where the +12 comes from but on older ones it is on one side of the coil and there is ground on teh other.

The Cap of the Distributor is HV that is @ 12,000V when the distributor fires, that is controlled differently on each version.

So knowing if you have a point/condensor inside the Distributor, or if it is Electronic would help us help you.

On Early dubs, the point condensor was the weak point, and would usually fry itself if you left the key in and the radio on if the engine was at a point connect position.

Fixed a lot of old beatles this way, 20 bucks for fixing a 50 cent part.  

Early point/condensor rabbits/golfs/gtis/scirocco's were the same.

Electronic are controlled by the ICM to Coil and the Hall sender inside of the dist housing.

So we need more information.

I've the electronic one, I've just change it after discovering that a didn't have spark, now I have spark but the car doesn't starts

Changed what.

The cap of the distributor, now I have spark but nothing from the start of the engine

Are you sure it is in time and the leads are on correctly?

www.cabby-info.com

She has how=to's on wires and timing with pretty pictures.