Roof help on cabby

Can anybody tell me how to change a complete roof i.e. Ive got a complete black roof frame hood headliner off another car to bolt onto mine? 
Thanks in advance

Unless your frame is damaged or bent then you just replace the hood or whatever needs doing.

From a personal note of someone who fits roofs etc all the time I see no benefit in putting old stuff on your car.

You don't know how old the roof is, what real condition it's in. Does it leak, ripped, etc. Plus the condition of the interliner and top pad. Or how long they are likely to last before you need to renew any way.
Often I see folks doing this and end up keep buying more old stuff because what they have isn't going to last and isn't good enough eventually it costs more than renewing. Or they end up getting a wrong year frame.
Also remember if swapping frames to take note of what year car it's off as they're are 3 different size headliners and 2 different lengths of side tension cable. So should you need to replace them then you won't end up buying stuff that's no good.
Also some frames have the stubby hinges on them at the rear window frame. These may need swapping to the longer skinny ones.

I'd also get a new rear and side tension cables when doing this. Old cables stretch or snap and you can end up with the rear of the hood not sitting right and the cable popping out.

If you want proper cables give me a shout

There are 3 different frames.
 Very Early frames are manual and sit higher out of the car so are no good on later cars. Plus the tonnaue cover is specific to them. So 79-81 no good on later cars.

Later Cabs are Manual too.
But apply as above. Up to 1989.

Post 1990 Cabs tend to be power top frames, so therefore are no good on early cars as there is nothing to hold the roof in the down position, this is done by the hydraulic rams. Unless you are going to chop out the brackets weld in and get the wiring loom to switch over to full power set up.

You can put pre 1990 on later cabs as they are manual frames, it is then a case of removing the original pump, rams etc.


The frames are held on with 3 bolts at the side main hinge bearing with a further one opposite.
You will need to undo the assisting rams from the frame or bottom brackets, which will need to be undo also.

The headliner will need undoing from the rear parcel shelf supports.You need to prise the spikes open.
There are 2 screws that are in cup washers that fasten it to the rear body section, plus the 2 corner webbing brackets 3 bolts per side.

You will also need to remove the rear tension cable from the hood and the rear window glass heater connections.
It's a two man job and take the complete assembly off with the roof in the up position, it's much easier to put back on that way.

Yes I agree, it is a two people job to hog wrestle a frame on or off the car and until you get it bolted to both sides with one bolt so it can't move.  Make sure that you do it up over and out.  Don't try to slide it off as you can scratch the paint.

I totally agree to replacing all the cables.  A used cable snaps easily on tightening.

I have a how to on creating the side tension cables as knowing the length of them is paramount to getting them to properly tension the sides of the top.  There are 2 lengths depending on the mount.

There are 2 styles, the pre-83 and post 83 tops as there are 2 different attachment points.  I have found a solution to the post 83 tops that prevent the cables from breaking at the front Teat Mount.

Unless the replacement top and all is new, I too agree it isn't worth it, unless your frame is kinked, but still again I usually replace all 3 layers on a frame swap.

Cabriolet DIY side tension cables | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

Cable length is newer 37 1/4 inches to no more than 37 1/2 inches total length loop to loop, or loop to chain.

Older is no more than 40 inches total length loop to loop.

Another gimme is that oiling all your pivot points stops tops from not opening or closing evenly or easily.
Don't forget the 2 pivot points on the rear window brackets, the one on the window and the one on the parcel shelf.

Then there are the eccentrics to adjust to make sure you don't cut your "B" pillar seals People forget about those.