No power to s1 fuseholder which works l/h dip

Series 1 Driver 1979.
L/H diped headlight packed up, checked wire back to multi-plug that goes into back of fuse board, all ok from there to headlight (yellow black wire). But no power to fuseholder at s1- [first on left fuse holder]
 Fuseholder at S2 which does R/H dip has power to fuse holder.All with light switch ignition on. Main beam both sides ok.
There is a spare brown feed floating about! near back of fuseboard, could this go on large relay as there are only 3 wires in yet 4 terminals on relay? not happy to try..
Wiring diagram shows S1+S2 join-but is this done in actual fuse board? Can it be bypassed if Fuseboard faulty using new fused feed to S1 ?

Are early series 1 fuseboards about, and plugs that go into it?
mine also has previous signs of melted wire to next plug- in plus plug on board  damaged but never happened with me and quess was a much earlier melt and now bypassed as all was working fine until a few days ago.

Any advice gratefully received.
Marcus.

I must ask if you have the key in and on the run, as all the fuses have power on without the key in and in the run position.

Then depending on which side of the fuse you are on is related to the key switch being on, as with the ignition off there may be or may not have power. A fuse by it's nature is that when it is powered has the same voltage on both sides when powered, when it isn't powered it may or may not have power on both sides, and if it has power on one side but not the other under then it is probably bad.

If the load reduction relay isn't functional as it is opened then you won't have power to the Lows at all with key in or out.  

Here is a thread that explains the ignition switch to Load reduction relay ("X" Circuit).

Personally I would think the issue is on the Ignition switch, but I have been fooled by a bad load reduction relay.  (its job is to cut power on the high current items at Start, and only start.).

Hi  Briano, thanks for your reply.
Yes key and switch are on.
its only the low beam headlight on the l/h side (nearside) which has no power to the fuse holder (all others have).
wiring from headlight to fuse box plug is fine.
I couldn't see your link to x circuit.
Which one is the load reduction relay?
Thanks. Marcus.
 

 Well sorry will try the re-link
The "X" Circuit from the Ignition Switch. | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum

Don't have a diagram for the 79, but it should be a relay
Lower Relay second from right above the fuses…
PN oem VW #171937503, 171937503A marked 17 or 18
Replacements VW #7M0951253A marked 100.

Now have you verified that the bulb is good.  One way around this with out major tearing your hair out is to relay the head lights and power the one side that isn't working from the side that is.


You can buy loom kits off of ebay for about less than 20 bucks, they work be sure that you get the ones with ceramic sockets.

Actually this is the best cheapest upgrade to your car that you can make, as you off load current off the headlight switch and increase the voltage and Current to your headlights.  If you make your own, and you have single lights on your ride, you can ignore the high beam cut as this is for a quad lighted Cabriolet.

As you are powering it from the side that works.

I would suspect that the uk ebay or amazon has similar.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-Headlight-2-Headlamp-Ceramic-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Light-Bulb-Socket-Plug-Kits/311906051304?hash=item489f0ca4e8%3Ag%3As6wAAOSwRXRZVLqh&_sacat=0&_nkw=headlight+relay+kit&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xheadlight+relay+kit.TRS0.TSS0



 

Thank Briano, I was thinking of this and your diagramn makes it simpler.
Regards,
Marcus.

If you ever saw the innards of a Fuse panel, no wonder that the electric atoms can get confuzzeled especially if there is water migration in to them.