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MK1 Sportline Door upgrade HELP !!!

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Upgrading door cards, windows , seals full Shebang!

Hello fellow mk1 heads, 

Thought I'd ask for help once again,

My door cards are really annoying me during this restoration process … ngl it's been psychologically draining and I'll never neglect the car again, I promise myself! 

1.  Door cards are warped due to water getting through poor window seals and non existent door membranes, probably blocked door drains also.

questions are…  🙋‍♂️ 

- how do you advise unwarping the actually door card - heard heating it up and putting weight on the card can help ?

- how should I clean and seal the recaro door cloth onto card as it's been stapled or should I use glue or double sided tape ?

- which door clips do you advise as I've seen both plastic and metal ?


2. Would like to upgrade to electric ⚡️ windows - is this a good idea and if so which do you guys recommend? 

Will of course do this once I get inner door addressed with membrane etc 



Any advise on getting the convertible in general air tight as possible- thinking to upgrade all seals one day - temporary fix black silicon? 


Please chip in your thoughts and links to purchase or model numbers , item descriptions as you see fit.


Thanks all in advance for your help! 

 

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It normal for the seal along the door by the glass to let the water into the door, you do need a good plastic membrane and clear the drainage holes along the bottom of the door.

Sorry can be help on fixing the door card.

I would stick with manual windows as it's one less thing to go wrong and less weight to carry around.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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There are pucker drains on the bottom edge of the door at the rear, Debris can catch and clog them up rutsication of the door skin and water pooling can happen.

Screen Shot 2021-09-23 at 9.38.03 PM.png

To the left of the screwdriver.

When I redid mine, I would replace the masonite fibre board with the Corrogated Plastic. use your old as the template and it will never warp due to moisture.

Besure you have a good vapor seal on the door prior to replacing the door card.  The Cheap Shower curtains work well.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

There are pucker drains on the bottom edge of the door at the rear, Debris can catch and clog them up rutsication of the door skin and water pooling can happen.

Screen Shot 2021-09-23 at 9.38.03 PM.png

To the left of the screwdriver.

When I redid mine, I would replace the masonite fibre board with the Corrogated Plastic. use your old as the template and it will never warp due to moisture.

Besure you have a good vapor seal on the door prior to replacing the door card.  The Cheap Shower curtains work well.




Thanks for your input sir 🙏

So to confirm, the arc shaped area you have circled: clear that with a screw driver? 

I only assumed water was entering before from the bonnet ducts and scuttle panel area and through the blower due to damaged scuttle but I'll remember to clear door drains also, is this the only door drain or are there any more?

Yes thanks I've heard shower curtains work how about the plastic sheet they sell at b&q or shower curtains are better? Can you recommend which to go for? Thicker the better? 

Thanks for you help 🙌

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Yes the Pucker drain is to the left of the screw driver in the Yellow circle.

Debris that gets by the window scrapers if worn, is what causes the issues.  Leaves, stupid folks leaving a Business card that falls through, (just use the wiper blades or better yet Don't leave them at all).

I find that the cheap shower curtains that are avail at a "Dollar Tree" is thicker than those drop cloths avail.  Yes a thick plastic sheeting is ok to use, but shoot I prefer the cheaper ones.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

Yes the Pucker drain is to the left of the screw driver in the Yellow circle.

Debris that gets by the window scrapers if worn, is what causes the issues.  Leaves, stupid folks leaving a Business card that falls through, (just use the wiper blades or better yet Don't leave them at all).

I find that the cheap shower curtains that are avail at a "Dollar Tree" is thicker than those drop cloths avail.  Yes a thick plastic sheeting is ok to use, but shoot I prefer the cheaper ones.





I agree … have loads of people put notes asking to scrap or buy the car whilst it's been sat, so yet to discover what's stuck in the doors  yet.

I'll have a go at clearing the puckers next week and will invest in a cheap shower curtain as you recommend, thanks 

Any tips on the clips , should I get plastic or metal as I've seen both just want to secure the best to hold and not have them pop off? 

Also with the corrugated plastic boards are they easy to screw the speakers and door handle into and cut holes into and be sturdy?

Thanks again  

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I use a plastic cable tie to clean out my door drainage holes so I don't scratch or chip the paint around the hole, the cable tie is also flexible so bends around the inside of the door.

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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yes they hold up well and the screws on the panels are backed up by nuts or plastic barb for the speaker covers and such…

You can buy new masonite, and use it. I have replaced panels with it, but the caveat is that I shellacked all sides and all edges even the handle holes and what not.  Sure it cost me 5 bucks for the quart of shellac but it was worth it in my MG and bug-eye sprite.  




What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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mark1gls said

I use a plastic cable tie to clean out my door drainage holes so I don't scratch or chip the paint around the hole, the cable tie is also flexible so bends around the inside of the door.



Thanks for that tip! I got plenty of those! 
Will give that a try! 🙏

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Briano1234 said

yes they hold up well and the screws on the panels are backed up by nuts or plastic barb for the speaker covers and such…

You can buy new masonite, and use it. I have replaced panels with it, but the caveat is that I shellacked all sides and all edges even the handle holes and what not.  Sure it cost me 5 bucks for the quart of shellac but it was worth it in my MG and bug-eye sprite.  







So you recommend "masonite" is that MDF wood here in uk ? More expensive than the corrugated plastic board I'm assuming  and that wouldn't warp and is a better solution long term ? Or corrugated plastic … which way would you say for long term so I won't have to do this again anytime soon 

Also trying to bear in mind all the weight …. That reminds me - door hinges need aligning up or replacing also! 🤦 

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The masonite is similar to mdf, but either way you use 1/8 inch thick, and as with Masonite, varnish or shellac it on all 6 sides and any holes that you cut or drill.  Mdf is more prone to water warping than Masonite which is also called plyboard or hardboard over on this side of the pond.

You will use 1/8inch staples water proof contact cement, and a lot of clamps.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265285804744?hash=item3dc44422c8:g:BmwAAOSwbsFgz99y

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Briano1234 said

The masonite is similar to mdf, but either way you use 1/8 inch thick, and as with Masonite, varnish or shellac it on all 6 sides and any holes that you cut or drill.  Mdf is more prone to water warping than Masonite which is also called plyboard or hardboard over on this side of the pond.

You will use 1/8inch staples water proof contact cement, and a lot of clamps.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265285804744?hash=item3dc44422c8:g:BmwAAOSwbsFgz99y



Might use the link below as might save time and money tbh - HDF ? Should I varnish these anyway …. Also the clamps are for what to hold the cloth stretched in place whilst I staple ?


Also can you let me know if you know better to use plastic or metal door clips? 

Thanks 

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jakethepeg007 said




Thanks Jake, seen these might actually pull the trigger on these as would save me time and money tbh 🙏

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You should use a good contact cement apply to the door car and the vinyl, allow to flash, then pull and stick then clamp it after it is stuck.  It is extremely good on the corners and flats…. space the clamps about 2 inches apart, then staple between,  you will see that vw double stapled the corners and transitions.

Yes the ebay ones should be shellacked or varnished, and if your choice says cleans up with water  then it is water resistive, and not waterproof.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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