Mk1 Golf Ultimate rear brake rebuild package

Good morning guys,

I am thinking of cleaning up the underside of the rear of my cabby. Take the subframe off, clean it and paint  it. And look at replacing the bushes on the roll bar. (are these roll bars good enough to re-use? or is a new one prefearble). The current one seems in decent condition

Whilst im doing this i'm also going to replace  the rea bearings, so was thinking of maybe doing the drums and the whole lot as seen in these kits. Have any of you used any of these kits attached in the links below?

Also, any other parts i shluld look at replacing as i'm doing this?

Thanks in advance

https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-ultimate-rear-brake-rebuild-package-5393-p.asp

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK1-GTI-CABRIOLET-BRAKE-DRUMS-SHOES-KIT-C384-/220926390933
 

Well if you are dropping the rear axle, by the way I like the second kit as the brake cables are there as well..
Don't get me started on how frustrating it was to change the rear shoes only to have the same side cable snap when I applied the e-brake….after buttoning it all up and back on the ground.  I have never needed to replace the rear stub axle as a maintenance Item and if your aren't worn or bent neither do you.

I do not see the rear brake cylinder rubber hoses, as they need to be attended to.  The Stainless Steel jacketed Teflon core ones are the cat's pajama's.
As long as you are replacing the bits get a hardware package that has the springs and shoe holder bits and a new parking brake wedge.  They are only about 14 USD over here for both sides.

Taking the lower rear shock bolt out can be a right royal pain in the keister, and on new to me cars I have had to cut them out… Think Swaz-all…. Going back wrap the bolt from head to threads with Teflon tape, then slather it with Never-Seize and you will never have to cut it out again.

I have a how to on that with pictures of a bolt that is 5 years or so old that was wrapped…

How to Keep Rear Lower Strut Bolt from Seizing. | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

If you look on the second one I think they also do the flexi pipes (4) and clips. The other one to consider is the handbrake cable holders (mini coat hangers).

Vic said

If you look on the second one I think they also do the flexi pipes (4) and clips. The other one to consider is the handbrake cable holders (mini coat hangers).

Naw it was the first one, I didn't read the description just looked at the pictures silly me…

buying the more cost effective version then adding hoses that you source SS PTFE are the best, and new clips will still be less than the more expensive one, and unless your caster or camber is way off on the rear, I don't think that the Stub axles are the way to go.  I mean over the 20 years that I drove my Diesel, and the 15 or so on Cabriolets, I never had the need to replace the stubs.  I did start really checking the setting on the rear after my Kiddies started to drive my Cabriolets….for beam and axle damage….when I would get it aligned..

Thanks for the replies. Always best to seek any advice from people that have done it before.

I will try and source some brake cylinder rubber hoses. I dont want to be held up waiting for any parts…ive been there too many times! ha

I sourced my parts individually and have done it over time. If your taking the axle off read read read first about any tips and problems that may occur and remedial actions if needed. Also plan if you intend to rebush the axle mounts. I was lucky in that mine came off easily. I also dropped the tank and cleaned and re waxoyled. If you do make a note of the flexi pipe plumbing from the tank sender to the hard lines. I used mini coloured tie wraps.