Mk1 g60 wiring guide ?

Hi guys,
Is there a detailed wiring guide for the g60 conversion anywhere with photos?

A while ago I bought a project g60 cabriolet that had the engine fitted and wiring 'done'

I don't want to finish the car off with this loom as it looks rough and I just know it will give me grief

I have a spare g60loom and another mk1 engine loom so fancy making my own ,  I'm handy enough with a soldering iron but would be nice to have a guide to follow  .

Cheers. Karl

rubjonny

this shoudl do you, abf is basically same fusebox side as g60
http://clubgti.com/showthread.php?249714

also if you click the link in my signature find ce1-ce2 spreadsheet.

other thing with the g60 if you have the type which unplugs in the scuttle its 5/6 pin plug just those wires you need to get the engine powered up, the rest of the bay wiring use from a std mk1 with the ends adapted to suit g60

rubjonny

Wondering if you can assist me mate?

A mate is doing a G60 conversion into his 81 plate Jetta. We've had a read through some stuff but I'm getting perplexed as he has the early type fuse box.

Are there any links floating about for the early type box to CE1 box wiring by any chance?

That way, hopefully, we can splice where we need to  

Ian

I think I have it pretty much sorted now cheers guys.
I pulled out the 'convered' loom, pulled it apart and re-spliced it to put the ecu in the car next to the fuse box.

I've still got loads of other bits to do before I can fire it up to see if it's right but I'm happy with it for now, will wrap it up once I've confirmed that it's good.

Cheers , Karl

coolio. the thing with the ceramic fusebox is it has no ecu feeds to the fusebox, so your ecu loom will have to be pretty much completely separate with its own ecu and fuel relays.  

the only wires to the fusebox will be for the dash sensors, wiper motor and the 2 coil wires

Right then,  getting further on now with intercooler and radiator pipework and I'm back on wiring again.

From the g60 ecu I have.
Black/white  &
Red/yellow.

Any ideas where these go?

Also on the fuel rail I have
Red  (what do I connect to this?).
Brown/yellow  (I've joined this near the ecu to the red/white that goes out to the lambda although I think this is wrong,  and with the feed to the k-jet fuel pump)

If I can have some suggestions for the above, I'll be pretty much done 👍

Cheers, Karl

need to check the pin positions to be sure what they are for, but black/white might be for the ecu relay pin 86a and red/yellow could be fuel relay trigger on ecu pin 3, though its usually yellow/blue on the G60.

the fuel relay live goes to fusebox Z/1, or for CE1 this would be the big spade N on the fusebox. The other wire should go to ecu pin 12.

on my corrado diagram red or red/yellow is the live to fusebox, brown or brown/yellow is the wire back to ecu pin 12

Cheers for that John, I'll have a go with that next weekend and let you all know how I get on.

Fingers crossed

I've had another go today and I'm still stuck.

I've done the loom by following the wiring guide on the g60 into a mk1 thread so it should be about right.

Does the fuel rail (2 pin plug) get its negative through the engine or will one of the 2 pins in the plug be the negative?
From the fuel rail plug There's a red wire that ive run back to the fuse box area and a brown/yellow wire that goes to the ecu.  The guide states that the brown/yellow connects in with the fuel pump relay (so is +12v when the fuel pump is running) but surely connecting the red wire to a relay (to be triggered by the red/yellow from ecu) will pretty much do the same thing?

So 10 mins thinking about it,  I'd bet red/yellow from the ecu is a positive relay trigger to send negative to the fuel rail on the red wire.
I'll have a bash at that next

the red wire on the fuel rail is the live, it should be fitted on the large spade terminal 'N' on the CE1 fusebox. the other pin is the earth trigger for the injectors, pulsed by the ecu

the ecu earths the fuel relay via D/13, usually its blue/yellow but it might be red/yellow if its older loom or maybe its been messed with. Check what pin it goes to, if its on pin 3, then its the relay trigger to D/13

 I still have a brown/yellow from the ecu plug to the fuel rail plug.
If the fuel rail works on a switching negative then surely the red should be the negative as it's the only broken cable to have a relay fitted?

I'll check the pin for the brown/yellow when I get chance and check that the red/yellow trigger wire is on pin 3

to make a circuit, you need a live and an earth. if the ecu supplies the earth, the other wire needs to be live

as I say, the red wire from the rail goes to spade N on the fusebox

I'm over complicating things then 😂.

Brown/yellow is the switching negative from the ecu then and my unused red/yellow from ecu isn't needed?

We are talking about 2 different circuits here

the fuel rail needs power for the injectors, which is fed from the fuel relay. the negative is pulsed by the ecu at a different speed depending on how much fuel the engine needs at any given moment.

the switched earth from pin 3 to D/13 is what switches on the fuel relay, which then powers the fuel pump,  fuel injectors and the live feed for the lambda probe heater.

Hope that clears it up a bit

What I have done is connect the red/white for the lambda into the yellow/red from the fuel pump on the mk1 loom and splice this into the brown/yellow that goes from the g60 ecu to the fuel rail to give the fuel rail it's positive supply.

The only fuel relay I currently have fitted is the original mk1 item for the pump at the back

 I need a separate one triggered by ecu pin 3 for the fuel rail negative to give a pulsed amount of fuel to injectors  (main pump will run constantly so any unused fuel in the rail will go back to the tank through a pressure valve and return fuel line similar to standard mk1).


That sound about right?

noooo, leave the brown/yellow wire alone. This goes from rail direct to the ecu, and is the earth trigger to fire the injectors. nothign else should be tapped into it.

red wire from rail to N, red./white from lambda to a female spade plug which is then connected to a wire with a male spade on it on the fuel pump power pin from E/14 (so you can unplug and remove the engine loom in future without cutting anything)

If you wire it as above, then the fuel relay should be a 67, 80 or 167 in slot 2 and your ecu pin 3 wire needs to go to D/13.

Its not safe to have your fuel pump on constant with the ignition, it wont cut out if you crash.

That's perfect,  much appreciated.

The existing pump relay is only on when cranking, not with ignition so it's good there (with a few seconds overrun when you turn ignition off)

Let's hope I haven't damaged the ecu by putting 12v back through the negative trigger.

I appreciate your help john
Should be waking up the neighbours with this car soon.

sounds liek you have a kjet relay in there, it'll work ok and is safe as its triggered by the tacho signal from the coil.

I'd rather have the ecu control the relay if it was me, not leasty becasue if you need a new relay they are cheap and easy to get good quality ones unlike the kjet version