MK1 1.8 GTi appears to run out of fuel after a few mile?? PLEEEEAAASE HELP

Hi fellow dubbers! Hope someone can help with this.
This is my 3rd or 4th post so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ive had my MK1 now for nearly 2 years trying to get it road worthy and am nearly there.
The problem I have is this.
From start up,its very spluttery until about 30 secs to a minute later then its pretty decent in running terms.When I drive for around 2 to 3 miles then it starts to splutter as if its running out of fuel. If i pull over and stop and re start a minute or so later its ok again for another 2 to 3 miles then the same happens?The fuel pump sounds noisey and changes tone as if its getting starved of fuel
Ive replaced WUR and 5th injector works as it should on turnover from cold.
Ive replaced the fuel pump,the coil,plugs leads dizzy and rotor and fuel filter.
The feuel tank is rusty and will be the next on the list to replace.
Is it the fuel accumulator and if so how do you test this?
I thought the new fuel pump would cure it as the other one was noisey but its no different.Still quite loud and changes tone particulrly when you go round a corner??
Do you think it could be a fuel tank breathing issue?
SORRY to drone on but this is doing my nut in now
Thanks in advance for any help
Dom

The fuel pump sounds noisey and changes tone as if its getting starved of fuelIve replaced WUR and 5th injector works as it should on turnover from cold.Ive replaced the fuel pump,the coil,plugs leads dizzy and rotor and fuel filter.The fuel tank is rusty and will be the next on the list to replace.Is it the fuel accumulator and if so how do you test this?I thought the new fuel pump would cure it as the other one was noisey but its no different.Still quite loud and changes tone particulrly when you go round a corner??Do you think it could be a fuel tank breathing issue?

Depending on the year, 84.5 and above have 2 fuel pumps.
one in tank and one external.

Your fuel pump being noisy is the big clue, it shouldn't be noisy.

So lets re-cap.
Tank is rusty, until you replace or take out and have cleaned your still going to have an issue.
If you replaced the Main Pump, then your in-tank pump isn't putting the fuel to the main pump or it is being restricted, and the main pump has to over work.

So basically until you solve your rusty tank, your are going to continue to gum up Pumps, Accumulators, and Filters.

Hanging a turn and starving for fuel is a sign that the In-tank Pump isn't delivering fuel to the Main.
If you replaced the in-tank pump and didn't get the connection hose replaced, that could be the issue.
If your replaced the In-tank and the Screen fell off so you are sucking up garbage then your Pump could be slowing down after all it is a rotory or vane pump very small clearances between the blades and the walls.

If you haven't replaced your in-tank, and or screen, I would do that first before you burn up the Primary Pump.
I would also change the Filter.

Inspection, and cleaning your tank is the real fix, as anything you will do will probably get wonky until the tank is fixed.



 

Worth  checking the  thermo time switch.  On the front of the block.   .
But  if you have rusty tank,  that's going to be causing  problems  so  get that  sorted  too 

Briano1234 said

The fuel pump sounds noisey and changes tone as if its getting starved of fuelIve replaced WUR and 5th injector works as it should on turnover from cold.Ive replaced the fuel pump,the coil,plugs leads dizzy and rotor and fuel filter.The fuel tank is rusty and will be the next on the list to replace.Is it the fuel accumulator and if so how do you test this?I thought the new fuel pump would cure it as the other one was noisey but its no different.Still quite loud and changes tone particulrly when you go round a corner??Do you think it could be a fuel tank breathing issue?

Depending on the year, 84.5 and above have 2 fuel pumps.
one in tank and one external.

Your fuel pump being noisy is the big clue, it shouldn't be noisy.

So lets re-cap.
Tank is rusty, until you replace or take out and have cleaned your still going to have an issue.
If you replaced the Main Pump, then your in-tank pump isn't putting the fuel to the main pump or it is being restricted, and the main pump has to over work.

So basically until you solve your rusty tank, your are going to continue to gum up Pumps, Accumulators, and Filters.

Hanging a turn and starving for fuel is a sign that the In-tank Pump isn't delivering fuel to the Main.
If you replaced the in-tank pump and didn't get the connection hose replaced, that could be the issue.
If your replaced the In-tank and the Screen fell off so you are sucking up garbage then your Pump could be slowing down after all it is a rotory or vane pump very small clearances between the blades and the walls.

If you haven't replaced your in-tank, and or screen, I would do that first before you burn up the Primary Pump.
I would also change the Filter.

Inspection, and cleaning your tank is the real fix, as anything you will do will probably get wonky until the tank is fixed.



 

Hi and thanks for your response.Yes the fuel tank is the next on the list.I tried to take the old one off to clean it but although id loosened everything there just didnt seem enough romm to get the bloody thing out.Will have to try again!
Regarding the in tank pump,im not sure mine has one?Its a 1982 on a Y plate and i cant see any wires going into the tank.Ive removed the fuel gauge  sender plate under the rear seat and looked in there but no other pump.Can see toads of rust mind you.Would this be the location for the in tank pump,under that plate?
Thanks for your advice

If I remember correctly you need to lower the rear beam to remove fuel tank, and if its I tintop it dosnt have a lift pump.

abfmk1 said

If I remember correctly you need to lower the rear beam to remove fuel tank, and if its I tintop it dosnt have a lift pump.

Thanks for your help and advice will give it a go this weekend. New fuel tank on order!

Don't snap the 4 axle/chassis studs……

I had a 'mare with a pattern GTI tank, funnily enough symptoms just the same, would run OK for 3-5 miles and then kangaroo to an halt like you run out of juice.

Eventually located a good 2nd hand tank and all was good.

Old cars eh?

Defo need to drop the rear beam - just had the job done myself. While everything was off I had a load of other stuff done and waxoil - makes sense but more expensive and time consuming lol!

Just wondering is a tintop different to a cabby where you can take out the rear seat & check the tank for rust via the pump sender removed??? my cabby was checked like this before… as mentioned a rusty tank will cause a few issues so give it a priority  hope you get time & get it sorted dude…