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Car keeps stalling in hot weather & jams

My B reg Golf GTI has had three replacement (Bosch) fuel injectors but recently developed problems in the hot weather. Car starts to stall in traffic jams after repeated restarts refuses to go until it cools down. Garage mechanics can't seem to replicate problem and only suggesting new fuel tank. Any suggestions? Have had car from new (1985) and had bodywork restored and it is much treasured so seriously need solution.


































































 

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Why only 3 injectors replaced?

When the car starts to cut out does the fuel pump get noisy just before it cuts out?

Is the fuel pump relay in the fuse box getting hot when the car cuts out?

How old is the dissy cap, rotor arm, HT leads, spark plugs, fuel filter and did this problem happen after changing any of these?

I would guess it's an electrical fault possibly the hall sender as I've read people having problems with them when they get hot?

I would not think it's the fuel tank as you would have the problem when the car is cold or hot…..

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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This sounds like the classic Fuel Pump relay issue where the contacts that connect to the Fuse Box over heat, and the solder connections to the PCB on the relay open…. Once the relay cools off, then you can restart your car for a bit until the cycle repeats itself.

You can search for the proper relay, but that is a crapshoot look at www.cabby-info.com for proper internal workings, or remove your fuel pump relay, remove the cover, and heat up the solder at the connections suck it out and replace it with new solder.

You can also do two tests of this by either jumpering the relay out with a jumper wire with 2 spad connectors, or use the horn relay (BE WARNED THAT AS LONG AS THE KEY IS IN THE IGNITION THE FUEL PUMPS WILL RUN. USE THIS AS A TEST ONLY.)

I would try this first to rule out all the other stuff that CIS is prone to have.
Digifants don't seem to have this issue, just wonky CTS sensors, broken plastic flanges and wonky Fuel Pressure Regulators.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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sorry to jump on this thread, this sounds like the same problem I have.
Briano - I suspected my relay so I bought another however it did the same cut out and then after 5 mins was fine.
My only question Briano would be the car runs for an hour on my drive no issues as soon as I take it out it cuts out? does this make sense?

Nina - Does your oil light flash continuously also once stalled?

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If you are idling the car that isn't the same as zipping about.

Idle doesn't stress the system……

I don't know CIS as well as I should, Only owned one and it was for parts…. but it did run before I stripped it about.

I do know of the Fuel Pump Relay being more finicky on CIS and more prone to cold solder joints.  

Try the jumper the relay out or the horn relay by pass, but remember as long as the key is in the fuel pumps are running.

I would also ask if there is a loud whine from the drivers side rear wheel arch when it starts to cut out.

 

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Okay thanks
noticed that when the turn the key I hear the fuel relay and then a whining noise that comes from the passenger side when it stalls it sounded like a bang.
 
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