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Looking for a Fuel tank removal guide

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Hi All,

Very slow progress on my 83 GTI Cab renovations. Having been sat for a while and am replacing fuel lines for the Crazy Quiff ones. I thought it prudent to check and refurb the fuel tank before trying to fire up. As such, has anybody got a guide ideally with pics on removal and replacement of the fuel tank?

When tank out was thinking of giving it a good rinse and clean out (with fuel). There are some chemicals and things I can get to assist. Then thinking of a rust treatment and paint.

If anybody has a guide that would be great. Even better if you wanted to come lend a hand one weekend. Based in Basingstoke…..

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I need to do this too ,so a quick guide, with products used would be good.
Thanks.

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You can take it to a Radiator Repair shop and they usually can Boil it out for you….

An Aggregrate (course Sand or stone, water) Agitate it about….. Drain Flush repeat.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Remove the inspection hatch under the rear seat and the tank sender/pump. Use a torch to peer inside and see if its full of water/rust/muck. If clean leave well alone.

If full of muck it can be siphoned out rather than removing tank which can cause much PITA due to seized and sheered rear axle bolts.

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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As above… the axle needs to be dropped/taken off to get at the tank… no easy way to take off/replace the fuel tank… :|

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Thanks all. I'll defer to your better judgments and have a good look at it in situ and see if I can clear out any much and debris from the sender hole. If the tank looks in good shape i'll leave it in. If not……….. well i'll cross that bridge when I get there.

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one thing you might do is to get a good magnet, and Drop it down the hole and push it away from the hole to the way Right as you are looking at it.  

That way, it will catch all metal or rust particles in one place.  

If you do have to drop it,  use only Brake Line Spanners on the Brake lines, you don't have to totally remove the axle but drop it about 6 inches.  

Order new rear rubber brake hoses.

Wire Brush the hades out of the studs and nuts and soak with Kroil or PB Blaster for DAYS, and use only a air driven 6pt impact.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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You can buy some stuff from UPOL for re-lining tanks if it's gone rusty inside.

I priced it up. It only a tenner more for a new tank. Plus less hassle! I was willing to pay the extra tenner  :thumbs:

Cornish Host.
1980 VW Derby
Clive the Cabby
Ujum the Invisible
Mynx the  Tintop

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Fuel tank are easy to take out, you just have to be very careful undoing the rear beam mounts, clean the treads and a good soaking with penetrating oil for a few days and keep re aplying, when you come to undo them lossen a little the do up the losen a little more then redo up, undo a little more then do up etc.. this will clear the thread of rust as it the nut gets clogged up it will become stiff and that's when you shear the bolt.
Brake lines have to come undone, rear shocks, hand brake cables removed and thats all that holds it on.
Remove exhaust back box and mid section.

If you take the beam off it's a good time to rebush the mounts and fit new braided flexible brake lines.

Undo the fuel lines in and out of the tank and remove the fuel filler neck then undo the 2 straps which hold the tank on.
The problem you will have with  your tank if you have the smaller tank (you have a full size spare wheel) is getting hold of a new tank for a Gti as they are really hard to get hold of a proper Gti tank.

Rear beam mounts.



New bushes.


Tank out.


My 1978 Scircco was really clean near the fuel tank.


Cleaned up mount with Jenolite and wire brush.


All painted up and ready to go back on, I left the wheels on so I could wheel it into place.


New bushes fitted, I lift the hand brake cables attached to the rear brakes and feed the cables out and back into the car.


I smeared waxoly over the nut;s and bolts.



If you do shear the ream beam fixings as they are very rusty you will need to reweld in some bolts from inside the car which can be a pain in the rear so it's at your own risk.  :thumbs:

1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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great pics and info thanks borednow really appreciate the help. I'll get around to having a look at mine in the next few weeks and work out a plan

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how hard is it to remove the rear shocks?
Never done it before. Do you need any special tools?

I stupidly let the fuel line to the pump drop down inside the car between the tank and rear footwell.   

Taken the chance to replace pumps and lines and hopefully clean tank.

thanks
CC

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concunningham said

how hard is it to remove the rear shocks?
Never done it before. Do you need any special tools?


thanks
CC

Sawzall, hacksaw, cutting torch or Grinder all come to mind in getting the lower bolt out the first time… Going back I strongly urge you to source new bolts and nuts Grade 8 or better, and Mummify them with Never-Seize (copper grease as y'all call it over there) and Teflon Tape from head to thread and more Never–Seize, you never will have another issue getting it out.

I have a how do I do that in the archive section, click my link in the signature and scroll down to suspension.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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