Is this going to be an issue!?

 Evening all.

Have managed to pick up a set of clocks today ahead of the Mk1 being dropped off next week. - it currently has none so a big need!

There are a few things I was hoping to check.

1. The PCB appears to be split at the top where one of the bulbs sits - is this likely to render the unit useless and is there anything I can do to patch or make it better want to check before I get the soldering iron out and make things worse! (see photos)

2. The oil light is missing - I assume it's a case of open up the unit and push one in - google hasn't helped with what bulb I need, can anyone advise!?

3. The Milage is showing as 787455! is there anyway of changing it to closer to the actual milage of the car?! or am I stuck with that mammoth millage!?

4. all the clips are missing/broken so I'm going to have to glue/epoxy something together to make it work in the dash any tips for anyone who has done this with theirs?!

Thanks all

Any advice is welcome!

Jack







 

It is possible to alter the mileage by taking it apart, as someone once did this for me,  but i have no idea what they did..

You could try and solder wires to reconnect the broken tracks, looks like theres only 2?

I suspect the oil warning LED was removed as it was flashing all the time, has the buzzer been bodged to stop it screeching?

The LEDs are just common or garden, prob less than 1p each on ebay if you could buy them individually

You can move the numbers round if you are careful, it helps if you can prise them apart a little bit, watch out where you touch, greasy fingerprints will show up everywhere you look, and be gentle, I'd advise on just doing the left side 2 dials as the small miles won't really matter unless your going for a zero miles dial
Sorry skills of a misspent yoof!
I’d try to insert some support / tape on the back side of the foil and line it up perfectly, there used to be a product available to repair heated rear screens you could paint on the glass to remake the continuity, failing that, gently scrape the blue off the track and carefully solder. I’m sure an old school tv repair man would manage

You can use a drill and a speedo cable to move it as well. Just don't go too fast.

I wouldn't use the drill, it will take forever and reversing the meter you can damage the spring, then the needle will bounce 

abfmk1 said

It is possible to alter the mileage by taking it apart, as someone once did this for me,  but i have no idea what they did..

Thanks, good to know it's doable, will have a play and see what I can figure out!

Early-1800 said

You could try and solder wires to reconnect the broken tracks, looks like theres only 2?

I suspect the oil warning LED was removed as it was flashing all the time, has the buzzer been bodged to stop it screeching?

The LEDs are just common or garden, prob less than 1p each on ebay if you could buy them individually

There's a PC repair shop a few roads away from me so might pop it down to them to see what they say. With it as is do you think the whole thing likely to not work?

Having never seen MK1 clocks before I have no idea on the buzzer - does it look like it's been bodged from this photo!?

jakethepeg007 said

You can move the numbers round if you are careful, it helps if you can prise them apart a little bit, watch out where you touch, greasy fingerprints will show up everywhere you look, and be gentle, I'd advise on just doing the left side 2 dials as the small miles won't really matter unless your going for a zero miles dial
Sorry skills of a misspent yoof!
I’d try to insert some support / tape on the back side of the foil and line it up perfectly, there used to be a product available to repair heated rear screens you could paint on the glass to remake the continuity, failing that, gently scrape the blue off the track and carefully solder. I’m sure an old school tv repair man would manage

Thanks that's really helpful, not worried about 0 miles just want it to be nearer to what was on the last MOT I take it the back of the unit just unscrews and you get in text way?

There's a PC repair shop by me, I may pop it down to as I'm not confident I won't make it worse! as it is at the moment will it render the whole thing useless or will I still have some function?

Jack W said

Early-1800 said

You could try and solder wires to reconnect the broken tracks, looks like theres only 2?

I suspect the oil warning LED was removed as it was flashing all the time, has the buzzer been bodged to stop it screeching?

The LEDs are just common or garden, prob less than 1p each on ebay if you could buy them individually

There's a PC repair shop a few roads away from me so might pop it down to them to see what they say. With it as is do you think the whole thing likely to not work?

Having never seen MK1 clocks before I have no idea on the buzzer - does it look like it's been bodged from this photo!?

Its buried inside the cluster on the 'L' shaped oil warning circuit board. I'd run it and see how it is before pulling it to bits when it may work

Jack W said

jakethepeg007 said

You can move the numbers round if you are careful, it helps if you can prise them apart a little bit, watch out where you touch, greasy fingerprints will show up everywhere you look, and be gentle, I'd advise on just doing the left side 2 dials as the small miles won't really matter unless your going for a zero miles dial
Sorry skills of a misspent yoof!
I’d try to insert some support / tape on the back side of the foil and line it up perfectly, there used to be a product available to repair heated rear screens you could paint on the glass to remake the continuity, failing that, gently scrape the blue off the track and carefully solder. I’m sure an old school tv repair man would manage

Thanks that's really helpful, not worried about 0 miles just want it to be nearer to what was on the last MOT I take it the back of the unit just unscrews and you get in text way?

There's a PC repair shop by me, I may pop it down to as I'm not confident I won't make it worse! as it is at the moment will it render the whole thing useless or will I still have some function?

I haven't messed about with this for years, the old taxi driver has long retired who I used to shave a few miles for…I don't have any mk1 clocks in bits but think I do have a mk2 golf speedo I'll try to post a pic of tomorrow, might have an old set I can post the missing led from..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heated-screen-kit-Car-Rear-Window-Screen-Demister-Element-Repair-Kit-posted-1st-/164694161203?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

This could be worth a try for the cost of a posh coffee!

See:
 Repairing your Flaky Water Temp Gauge | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

Shows you how to separate the cluster and get the face plate off, then there are the screws on the back of the speedo to allow it to be removed from the housing.

You have to pry the needle off first.  You have to pry it from the middle of the post at the center on both sides of the post, use a piece of paper or thin cardboard to protect the gauge face.  I used a pair of curved forceps and a small bit of plastic.  Once the needle is off then you can remove the 2 screws holding the face plate off.

Use a couple of small screwdrivers to pry the counter wheels to the left or right (can remember) then you can rotate the wheels to the desired position, you have to slightly pry them so the keeper dog between the gears disengages to allow movement.  I do think the VDO is easier to spin than the Momometer.

While you are at it you ought to remove the water temp gauge and clean the connections of the nicachrome wire and resolder them so you don't have to go back later when you find the temp gauge is flakey.

Plump the main connector as well.

to repair the cut traces I have found that gently removing the coating off the traces both sides will allow a conductive epoxy to be applied and left to dry, you may also want to use a thin sheet of plastic on the back side of the mylar to support it from ripping further. You can attach the plastic with thin water resistive super glue as it will stabilize it.

Going back, replace the face plate, then position the needle on the back side of the stop post (align it with the dot.), push it on, then Gently move the needle over the stop pin and allow it to rest against it in the normal position, this will pre-load the needle and allow a more truer reading of the speedo.

Gentle and careful are the key words.

You can buy a defroster repair kit {professional} and it usually contains the conductive epoxy that is used to attach the tabs back on the defroster grid.

Photos of the back of a type 19 speedo, yours will be about the same, you can use a small terminal screw driver and gently but forcefully flick the tumbler round, it will likely take 2 clicks per number to get them straight

I have a red led for you if you want to pm me your address

jakethepeg007 said

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heated-screen-kit-Car-Rear-Window-Screen-Demister-Element-Repair-Kit-posted-1st-/164694161203?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

This could be worth a try for the cost of a posh coffee!

You must be buying some real posh coffee! I because of where it is I think it may be best to solder and glue! will see how I get on

jakethepeg007 said

Photos of the back of a type 19 speedo, yours will be about the same, you can use a small terminal screw driver and gently but forcefully flick the tumbler round, it will likely take 2 clicks per number to get them straight

I have a red led for you if you want to pm me your address

I may just leave it be, I don't intend to sell the car in all reality and have made a note of the milage on the clocks now - It's had so many different dash's in it the last mot is 3k miles even though by the previous owners calculation the body has done around140K!

if it's just a 5mm LED I think I have some in a drawer somewhere! if not though will pop you a message thanks !

Briano1234 said

See:
 Repairing your Flaky Water Temp Gauge | Volkswagen Owners Club Forum

Shows you how to separate the cluster and get the face plate off, then there are the screws on the back of the speedo to allow it to be removed from the housing.

You have to pry the needle off first.  You have to pry it from the middle of the post at the center on both sides of the post, use a piece of paper or thin cardboard to protect the gauge face.  I used a pair of curved forceps and a small bit of plastic.  Once the needle is off then you can remove the 2 screws holding the face plate off.

Use a couple of small screwdrivers to pry the counter wheels to the left or right (can remember) then you can rotate the wheels to the desired position, you have to slightly pry them so the keeper dog between the gears disengages to allow movement.  I do think the VDO is easier to spin than the Momometer.

While you are at it you ought to remove the water temp gauge and clean the connections of the nicachrome wire and resolder them so you don't have to go back later when you find the temp gauge is flakey.

Plump the main connector as well.

to repair the cut traces I have found that gently removing the coating off the traces both sides will allow a conductive epoxy to be applied and left to dry, you may also want to use a thin sheet of plastic on the back side of the mylar to support it from ripping further. You can attach the plastic with thin water resistive super glue as it will stabilize it.

Going back, replace the face plate, then position the needle on the back side of the stop post (align it with the dot.), push it on, then Gently move the needle over the stop pin and allow it to rest against it in the normal position, this will pre-load the needle and allow a more truer reading of the speedo.

Gentle and careful are the key words.

You can buy a defroster repair kit {professional} and it usually contains the conductive epoxy that is used to attach the tabs back on the defroster grid.

Looking at what everyones said I'm not convinced the unit will hold up to much coming apart and back together again, think I'll see how the PCB repair goes and maybe leave it at that. I'm assuming someone has messed with the odometer to this point as I doubt there is a MK1 GTI out there that has that many miles realistically stacked on it!

If you use solder, I would only use surface mount solder paste and wire, why you ask.  It melts with hot air from a hair dryer.  A soldering iron if you aren't very careful and use a 14 watt iron, (princess) you will melt the thing in to a unusable glob of stuff (well at least melt holes in it and possibly ruin a run that is near.  

Conductive glue works best.  If you can solder to a component that is on both sides then you can bridge it with solder, but again you have to be really really quick which is why they use Crimp connectors.