Heater box

Hi guys, I have got my dash and knee bar at the moment as I’m doing some wiring. While it’s it out I thought I do the heater while I’m at it. The heater doesn’t blow very warm so the matrix might be blocked (the valve is working) and the blower sticks on No1 speed. If I drop the whole unit out to change them what is the best thing to use to seal it back to the body? What’s on it now? Some kind of foam seal? What do you recommend?

Cheers Steve.

The heater matrix will slide out the hatch on the side, why do you want to remove the whole box to change the matrix, just seems like more work..?

Hi mark, like I said the dashboard is out. Changing the blower as well as the matrix. Thought it would be quicker to do both by removing the whole heater.

When I changed my heater matrix, the replacement came with a length of adhesive foam seal, like the stuff you stick round a door frame to keep out drafts, but in black.

Thanks for your reply Lee0, yes I have seen the foam seal that you put around the matrix. The seal I mean though is the one that goes at the top of the heater box that stops rain water getting in from the bulkhead. I now have the heater out and it is just self adhesive foam strip like the matrix one. I'm glad I took the heater out though as it was full of all sorts.

Here are just some of them.

Here are some pics.

Steve1973 said

Here are some pics.

hi you got do worse than go one of the high street craft stores and buy some sticky backed neoprene or felt, only 1£ a sheet (a4 size)and make a nice gasket.. plus left over helps stops rattles in the trims when replacing.

Felt would allow water migration and that you don't want, so a good self sticky closed cell foam will work nicely.  I would use one that is 1/2" tall as it compresses well, and place the seam at the rear Once installed you can use that flex seal tape I would thing a 1/2" wide strip on the outside to limit and and all leaks that Clogged Rain drains cause. As it is Bendable you can get a really good fitment.

To keep out the leaves and such you can use a good water divertor, for the Rain tray, and a debris guard that fits the hood vents.
It will allow stuff to enter via the hood seams but it will keep the Majority of Garbage out.

Debris Guard on the hood vents.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Going to go with some closed cell neoprene I have seen on eBay.Another question for you though. On the flaps in the heater box there was some sort of foam that had now rotted away. Do you thing I should replace this or just leave it as is?

Do the felt at the same time.. I put felt to add cushioning and then put aluminium tape over the top as heat guard. Works for last 2 yrs.. but could work better with tape then felt edges. From hobby craft sticky felt is 1.10 a sheet.. just bought 2 sheets

Cheers Ken I will look into it.

Felt or spare Motherboard foam tool drawer liner works well as well.

Look in the Archive How to's briano's 90 cabbys interior
Every vent fix for the Cabriolet, and you will get an idea, of what you need.

or click the link in my signature…

Hi folks, bit of an update. Fitted new felt and foam seals to the air flaps.



Re sealed the joints with plumbers putty.



New closed cell neoprene seal around the top flange and around the new blower motor.fitted new heater matrix.



Just need some new hoses and a stainless steel 5/8 hose connector and it can be installed in the car.

I covered my foam with the aluminium tape.. to try keep heat from melting the backing glue.

Yes ken, I read that in your earlier post. I have used some really strong contact adhesive. I think that is what was on it before as I had to use a solvent to clean it off. Time will tell though. How is yours holding up? How can you tell if it's still ok after the heater is reinstalled?

Yes still theres are when move flaps the heat moves to vents.  The foam on the central vent flaps has fallen off on 1 on the mk2, so have to re stick. You'll notice when comes off..as heat will go and you'll hear the foam flapping about