Extra wires and plugs on my 81 1.1 golf L

Hi all
I have got myself another golf. Its a 81 5 door 1.1 L model. I will put in the project section when i eventually start on it.
Please can someone help me with a few bits first. As the previous lads that owned it have had a fiddle.
Its non servo master cylinder with 2 sender units but what plugs into them
Theres 2 wires taped up here
There on the same harness as these.

Also what are these wires for



And should i have these because they werent on my other golf (78 1.1 golf N) and i have no plug for them.

Help as usual much appreciated

Well for the m/c one is for the brake light switch and one is the low pressure warning light on your console.

These 2 wires that are taped up are next to the master cylinder but there are only 2 and I have 4 spades.
Is it possible that I use the 2 taped wires on each sender unit then join a wire linking them.

No, the switches are separate, so they require 4 colored wires 2 each there isn't a jumper between them.

I am guessing one is the brake light switch as there isn't one on the pedal inside the car. My main concern is the 2 wires I am holding in picture 4 look like the wires that plug into the brake light switch but they are over the other side of the car near the expansion tank.
The car is august 81 so no servo and m/c on the driver's side so it can't be the same red/yellow red/black wires.

the brake switch wiring is the red/black and red/yellow wires you have found there. What you are missing is the connection loom section which plugs into those and runs over to the driver side for the brake switches.

The wires for the 2nd switch are crimped into the pins for the 1st switch. So the 2nd switch piggybacks off the first if you get me, wire colours are red/yellow and red/black for both switches.

the taped up wires are probably for the original carb, you have a later engien so you need to do a little adaptation to get it all sorted. the red plug in coolant housing is the thermoswitch for the inlet manifold heater, this would have an ignition live to it plus a purple/black back to the fusebox to trigger the inlet heater relay. the output from this relay is a thick white/red which then plugs into the inlet heater on the bottom.

The 2nd sensor looks blue? if so the engine used to be an SPI unit with an ecu, the blue sensor being coolant temp for the ECU. If its now running a 2e3 or similar carb you'll need to change it for a grey thermoswitch which then triggers the autochoke, or if its a basic weber or similar no need to worry.

the thick red/black from fusebox is for the starter motor, thinner red/black may be radiator fan related?

Thanks john
As usual your a lifesaver (i you had a penny for everytime you heard that you would be at least a millionaire mate).

I was starting to worry that the master cylinder had been moved to fit the expansion tank and thats why the wires were that side. I shall get a connecting wire sorted.
The rest i shall have to take in as my brain cant take that much info in one go.
The carb is the 1e1 pierburg with manual choke but there is an auto choke version in a box in the boot, i will leave the manual one on for the minute at least till i get the car up and running.

Are the taped wires attached to oil temp and pressure senders.


The one thing i did check is the starter motor has its connecting wire from the loom at the back (thick red/black)

so i am still not sure what the front red/black wires are would they be for the fan thermoswitch

And lastly the second sensor is black for some reason it does look like a dark blue but im sure its black. Is there any markings on the engine that will tell what the engine is (ie. Code, stamps etc…) so i can at least date it.

I posted some extra info in your other thread here:
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=technical%2Felectrics_2%2Fextra-wires-and-plugs

fan wiring looks right, you should have a permanent live from the fusebox to the fan switch then other pin goes off to the radiator fan, 2nd pin on fan is earthed.

with the oil switch blue/black wire now I think about it is probably for the low pressure switch 0.25 or 0.3 bar, which triggers the oil light ignition on and if oil pressure drops while idling

engine code is stamped into the block just above the gearbox bellhousing, if you're lucky it might still be readable:


 If there is a VW part number on the distributor I can tell you what thats off at least.