Electrical Help Please [emoji120]

Hi all, hoping someone can help me out. My near side front side light just had a brown wire on it when I bought the car, I noticed a black and grey wire coming out of the loom with all of the wires for the headlights and I was informed that the wire would be the live for my sidelight. The other side works fine no issues so I was wondering if any of you know if that is the correct wire and why there might be no power through it? .
My next question is, about my indicators. When indicators and switch on individuals using the stalk for either left or right they seem to Flash rather fast but at normal speed if the hazards are on. All the Bulbs work, any ideas what this could be?
My third question is, the blue light on the dash that should light up when full beam is on doesn't seem to work, could this be the bulb or is there another reason for it?
Finally I found the horn to be disconnected and when I connected it I realised why it was disconnected, as soon as you connect it the horn comes on and doesn't go off? What could cause that?

I think that's everything for now, I hope someone can help me out, as I'm stuck. Appreciate any help and look forward to any replies.

The car is an 83 gti cabriolet if that makes a difference

Thanks





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Welcome along Mucker.

If I was mote awake I'd make some suggestions.

I'm sure many will be along directly to give you lots of helpful advice

Ian

 4.) VW put power full time to the black/yellow wire on the horn.
To power the horn, they took the earth from the frame and attached it to the Steering gear box, and up the center stalk and nut to the steering wheel.
From the Steering wheel buttons you have wiper switch on the back side of the wheel, that is attached to the Turn signal stalks.  Then out the connector to the fuse panel and this powers the relay that places a ground on the horn.

So I would suspect that your wiper finger is bent and shorting out the relay ground to power it to cause the horn to blare.


simplified.


Wiper finger on the typical stalk.


1.) Side markers have 1 wire and a ground.
Grounds on dubs are always brown…..

nearside farside, is that left or right on the car as you are sitting in the seat,  This southerner has difficulties with ya'lls vernacular.

The gray/black should feed the side marker Left side as well as the parking light on the bumper…it changes to gray at the tie and the gray wire is what powers the marker and the parking lamp.

The right side is a gray/red going to the side marker then gray to the bulbs…

The left or the right are powered from separate fuses.


2. ) Flashers speeds are determined by resistance, so I suspect that you have corroded sockets on the bulbs.
as the front turns are also markers,  So clean your grounds and sockets, also the bulb base and soldered end.

Last one.
High Beam indicator is powered off the connector on the Left High Beam it is blue/white and goes into the instrument clusters (clocks). So does your left side high work?  And does the light light when you flash the hi's as it is a separate power source for intermittent than it is for full on, and it would still be most likely a switch issue.  There are 4 separate fuses for the head lights so check your fuses.

I knew the good ol boy would be along with the info!

Yay to Briano ;-)

Ian

Briano1234 said

 4.) VW put power full time to the black/yellow wire on the horn.
To power the horn, they took the earth from the frame and attached it to the Steering gear box, and up the center stalk and nut to the steering wheel.
From the Steering wheel buttons you have wiper switch on the back side of the wheel, that is attached to the Turn signal stalks.  Then out the connector to the fuse panel and this powers the relay that places a ground on the horn.

So I would suspect that your wiper finger is bent and shorting out the relay ground to power it to cause the horn to blare.


simplified.


Wiper finger on the typical stalk.


1.) Side markers have 1 wire and a ground.
Grounds on dubs are always brown…..

nearside farside, is that left or right on the car as you are sitting in the seat,  This southerner has difficulties with ya'lls vernacular.

The gray/black should feed the side marker Left side as well as the parking light on the bumper…it changes to gray at the tie and the gray wire is what powers the marker and the parking lamp.

The right side is a gray/red going to the side marker then gray to the bulbs…

The left or the right are powered from separate fuses.


2. ) Flashers speeds are determined by resistance, so I suspect that you have corroded sockets on the bulbs.
as the front turns are also markers,  So clean your grounds and sockets, also the bulb base and soldered end.

Last one.
High Beam indicator is powered off the connector on the Left High Beam it is blue/white and goes into the instrument clusters (clocks). So does your left side high work?  And does the light light when you flash the hi's as it is a separate power source for intermittent than it is for full on, and it would still be most likely a switch issue.  There are 4 separate fuses for the head lights so check your fuses.

With


Thanks for the reply, I took the steering wheel off to have a look as it's been making a grinding noise and the metal ring on the back of the wheel seems to be rubbing on screws or something where the wheel bolts on. Am I missing a bush or something? Would this be causing the horn to sound all the time?



As for the side lights, on one side where it's all cOnnected I have a brown wire and a grey and red and on the other side that's not working I have the brown and the black and grey that's not connected that has no power down it. What do you mean by it changes to grey at the tie? And are you saying the sidelights have there own fuses for each side?

As for the indicators I'll do what you said. But why would they flash normally when the hazard switch is on and fast when using the indicator stalk ?

Yeah high beam works fine I just the blue light on the dash doesn't light up even even If just flash the lights. Ill check the fuses but if not where would I go from there?

Cheers look forward to your reply



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Yes those screws can back out and rub the wheel making ground and honking the horn. Electricity can be stupidly simple or extremely difficult.  If the ring is shorting to ground because of a backed out screw, then the the horn connector thinks you are pressing the button.  I would bet that they stripped a screw and used a larger one without filing down the head…. as all the screws that hold the stalks to the upper bearing should be black.  I bet if you turned your car on and re-connect the horn, with the wheel off you wouldn't hear a toot.

The steering shaft has a lower bearing, if that is exposed, as slipped out, then your wheel can hit those screws, verify that your steering shaft lower bearing is fully in place, if not shove it back up, and use a hose clamp to hold it.  Last thing that I can recall is that if some one compressed the steering shaft, (it collapses under impact) you may need but to pull it out.  Take the nit and place it on the bare shaft so it is event with the shaft face.
Clamp a pair of vice-grips on the nut, and inner shaft (hollow part) and give it a couple of good tugs, remove the nut and shoudl be good to go.
When replacing the wheel, use a lever and fulcrum on the u-joint at the bottom to prevent the shaft from slipping down.

If one of your horn buttons is broken that can cause the same symptoms.  So you may want to check those as well.

If you don't have power to one side, as in left or right markers then look to your fuses first as each side is separately fused.

black/gray is off of f14.
It ties to a Gray wire going to the parking light on the bumper, so if you have parking lights on that side, then the wire is broken between the connector for them.

if you are rears aren't working on that side then it is the fuse or the wire out the back of the fuse panel.

For your "Hi-Beam" indicator, it is but a bulb, so if you place a 9V dc battery on the brown wire on the cluster connector (GROUND (-)).  and the Positive on the blue/white wire, your hi-beam lamp should light if not, then you have a bad wire leading to it, (may be on the dip stalk,) or a burned out bulb…it is a bulb, and they do go bad. Since using the battery you are powering the light separately, then it is the bulb.



 

Briano1234 said

Yes those screws can back out and rub the wheel making ground and honking the horn. Electricity can be stupidly simple or extremely difficult.  If the ring is shorting to ground because of a backed out screw, then the the horn connector thinks you are pressing the button.  I would bet that they stripped a screw and used a larger one without filing down the head…. as all the screws that hold the stalks to the upper bearing should be black.  I bet if you turned your car on and re-connect the horn, with the wheel off you wouldn't hear a toot.

The steering shaft has a lower bearing, if that is exposed, as slipped out, then your wheel can hit those screws, verify that your steering shaft lower bearing is fully in place, if not shove it back up, and use a hose clamp to hold it.  Last thing that I can recall is that if some one compressed the steering shaft, (it collapses under impact) you may need but to pull it out.  Take the nit and place it on the bare shaft so it is event with the shaft face.
Clamp a pair of vice-grips on the nut, and inner shaft (hollow part) and give it a couple of good tugs, remove the nut and shoudl be good to go.
When replacing the wheel, use a lever and fulcrum on the u-joint at the bottom to prevent the shaft from slipping down.

If one of your horn buttons is broken that can cause the same symptoms.  So you may want to check those as well.

If you don't have power to one side, as in left or right markers then look to your fuses first as each side is separately fused.

black/gray is off of f14.
It ties to a Gray wire going to the parking light on the bumper, so if you have parking lights on that side, then the wire is broken between the connector for them.

if you are rears aren't working on that side then it is the fuse or the wire out the back of the fuse panel.

For your "Hi-Beam" indicator, it is but a bulb, so if you place a 9V dc battery on the brown wire on the cluster connector (GROUND (-)).  and the Positive on the blue/white wire, your hi-beam lamp should light if not, then you have a bad wire leading to it, (may be on the dip stalk,) or a burned out bulb…it is a bulb, and they do go bad. Since using the battery you are powering the light separately, then it is the bulb.



 

The sidelight issue turned out to be the Fuse thankfully so that's all sorted.
The horn is making a connection on the screws by the looks of it but I think I'm missing like a spacer or something that goes between the wheel and the column so that maybe why.

I shall have a look in to the hi-beam indicator soon and put power straight to it to see if it is the bulb.

My rear fog light seems to have no power going to it but the switch lights up. Do I need to have certain lights on for the fog to switch on? And is there a Fuse for it?

Finally my indicators flash fast but are normal when hazards are switched on. I've checked all the Bulbs are the same but it still does It . Any ideas?

Cheers mate


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A fast flasher to me is usually a bulb is out and the resistance of the circuit changed because of the missing bulb.

It could be that your flasher is "iffy", but if all the bulbs work for both, then just go for it.

For the horn, try pulling out on the shaft as in up towards you.  Make sure that the bearings at the bottom of the shaft are fully up inside the shaft.



I don't remember a sleeve or a thick washer….but it has been years since I worked on a "non" airbagged wheel
that is why I am suggesting that you verify your bearings and make sure that the shaft hasn't collapsed a bit.

Usually there is in and out play on the wheel, that is to and away from you about 1/2 inch when the lower bearing has slipped.

Thegticabbyguy said

My rear fog light seems to have no power going to it but the switch lights up. Do I need to have certain lights on for the fog to switch on? And is there a Fuse for it?


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I would imaging that your fog light has a fuse and a relay.  The Light coming on tells you it's on not that it is working.

We don't have rear fog lights on cars over here, and if a car has fogs on it they are usually in the front.

Check the Bentley/Haynes They probably have a breakdown for you there.

I would first check the switch to verify that it is switching power…..(at least to pic a relay.)

Only 4 things, now a 5th?  

Briano1234 said

A fast flasher to me is usually a bulb is out and the resistance of the circuit changed because of the missing bulb.

It could be that your flasher is "iffy", but if all the bulbs work for both, then just go for it.

For the horn, try pulling out on the shaft as in up towards you.  Make sure that the bearings at the bottom of the shaft are fully up inside the shaft.



I don't remember a sleeve or a thick washer….but it has been years since I worked on a "non" airbagged wheel
that is why I am suggesting that you verify your bearings and make sure that the shaft hasn't collapsed a bit.

Usually there is in and out play on the wheel, that is to and away from you about 1/2 inch when the lower bearing has slipped.

Thanks for the reply, so you think the fast flashing could be down to a faulty flasher relay then as all my Bulbs are fine?

I sorted the side light issue so that's all good and believe I have found the cause to the horn issue which seems to be because I'm missing the steering wheel spacer Sleeve, so I'll order one and hopefully that will sort the problem.
 
I've tried pulling on the shaft etc everything seems solid so I'm happy with that.

I've got more than just these problems but they were the ones I was wanting to sort first  as they are needed for the MOT next month.

So I just need to sort the rear fog issue and the indicator flashing speed then I can move on to the next things.


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I forgot to ask if you had LED bulbs in place of incandescent, because they flash quicker.

I personally wouldn't worry about it.

The rear fog lights due tend to go rusty on the cabbys as they sit under the bumper and water gets in to the case and rusts out the inside.

Have a check of the bulb to see if it's just a rusty mess. The wires can also chafe so check inside the back panel that the wires are all ok. The wires come off the passenger side rear light and run across the inside of the rear panel, chase them and check all the connections. You will need to have your headlights on and the ignition on or the the car running for the fog light to work.

Indicators flashing too quick is down to low resistance. So as Brian says either LED bulbs somewhere or flasher unit broke.

One of these will slow it down if everything else is ok

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CF14-3-Pin-Adjustable-LED-Flasher-Relay-Car-Turn-Signal-Indicator-Blinker-Light/272665874287?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Can't remember if there is a spacer on the later cars. Does there appear to be a large spline adaptor on the end of the column? Later cars had a bigger spline steering wheel and no spacer.
At the bottom of the flat face that wheel mounts to is a copper strip. Thats the horn contact pickup. Try bending it away from the steering wheel a bit. as they age they seem to move to toward the steering wheel making contact all the time.

Looks like you're getting there, keep it up  

Ian

borednow said

The rear fog lights due tend to go rusty on the cabbys as they sit under the bumper and water gets in to the case and rusts out the inside.

Have a check of the bulb to see if it's just a rusty mess. The wires can also chafe so check inside the back panel that the wires are all ok. The wires come off the passenger side rear light and run across the inside of the rear panel, chase them and check all the connections. You will need to have your headlights on and the ignition on or the the car running for the fog light to work.

Indicators flashing too quick is down to low resistance. So as Brian says either LED bulbs somewhere or flasher unit broke.

One of these will slow it down if everything else is ok

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CF14-3-Pin-Adjustable-LED-Flasher-Relay-Car-Turn-Signal-Indicator-Blinker-Light/272665874287?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Can't remember if there is a spacer on the later cars. Does there appear to be a large spline adaptor on the end of the column? Later cars had a bigger spline steering wheel and no spacer.
At the bottom of the flat face that wheel mounts to is a copper strip. Thats the horn contact pickup. Try bending it away from the steering wheel a bit. as they age they seem to move to toward the steering wheel making contact all the time.

Looks like you're getting there, keep it up  

Ian

I've checked for rust on the fog light bulb but all seems okay and I cleaned the contacts, but I don't seem to have any power there, I've tested the bulb so I know that works too. I can see where the wires run in to the boot but I thought I'd check the Fuse first and I don't seem to have any power at the Fuse itself. Do you know where it gets the feed from?
As for the indicators they're all just standard 21w Bulbs all working fine so I'm guessing it's going to be the relay. I have one on my bike for the led indicators so I'm just going to try that on it first before ordering ones. Hopefully that solves the issue.



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When checking fuses, you have to remember that a fuse is to be considered a wire.

If you have the key in, lights on, fog light switch on, then there should be 12V+ on both legs of the fuse even if you turn the fogs off.
If the Fuse has 12V+ only on one side then chances are that the fuse is gone.

View topic: Fuze box wiring layout . Relay locations . Fuze locations . - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

Should assist with the locations of the typical relay.

Briano1234 said

When checking fuses, you have to remember that a fuse is to be considered a wire.

If you have the key in, lights on, fog light switch on, then there should be 12V+ on both legs of the fuse even if you turn the fogs off.
If the Fuse has 12V+ only on one side then chances are that the fuse is gone.

View topic: Fuze box wiring layout . Relay locations . Fuze locations . - The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

Should assist with the locations of the typical relay.

Cheers mate I'll check tomorrow, so there's a relay for the rear fog light then? I wasn't aware of that


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