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Door lock help

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Hi I have a sticky drivers door lock, firstly the barrel moves a bit inside the handle and secondly I have to push the key laterally towards the front of the car for the key to engage turn the lock. Does this mean the handle needs replacing or the barrel and key?

Another question - the little spring, should that sit with its arms either side of the bracket on the housing?

Video attached of the lock just now.

https://youtu.be/B7fOqi-AuO4


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Take the screw out of the pawl on the back be mindful of the spring that is under it, then pop the lock out of the handle by slightly tapping it at the rear probably with the
Ke inserted and turned.

With the lock cylinder out,  and the key inserted but no wiggled are any of the wafers sticking out?  if so that is the issue is that it is close, you can usually file it down to the same size the outside cylinder.

Wiggle turn may also mean that the wafers are sticky so spritz them with your favorite oil and work them a bit spritz them again and re-work…

If they are all at the same depth then try cleaning the inside of the handle lock area and try them again…You could have a bit of slag that is binding the one wafer….

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

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As Briano says.

Looks to me like you have excessive wear between key and wafers/wafers and barrel. A rebuild of the barrel might be in order, with a new key cut.

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Door lock help

Thanks both. Car is going in for bodywork and respray next month so I was thinking about getting a full set of door handles, boot lock ignition, seals and keys from classic vw. Any the lights on them?

Keep the originals for a rainy day of course!


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I would repair and keep the original handles/locks as most pattern parts are not made very well or to the same quality but I guess it depends on how bad yours are and if you can be bothered to repair them as it's easier to just stick on new stuff.

Theres a few guides on the web.

there is 2 types of handles depending on what year your car is.


one from the Scirocco register, Mk1 scirocco early handles and Mk2 Scirocco is later handles

https://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/carforum/viewtopic.php?t=55

 

Last edit: by mark1gls


1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.

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Bawbag said

Thanks both. Car is going in for bodywork and respray next month so I was thinking about getting a full set of door handles, boot lock ignition, seals and keys from classic vw. Any the lights on them?

Keep the originals for a rainy day of course!


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 I used the brilliant guide on here to reprogram the lock barrels on my car to all work off the same key.

Really straightforward to do if you can get some wafers. I started with an OE key that fitted the ignition barrel and then worked may way through the barrels from there. I just popped some wafers into the barrel, put the key in, turned the lock with my thumb and fingers sitting over the wafers on either side of the barrel, and if one sits proud when you turn the key, try another until you get the code. Once you have the code for one you then just follow the same steps with the others.

I'm not aware of anywhere that still sells the wafers but there are often job lots of knackered handles for sale that you can quickly take apart and remove the wafers. Just be warned that each wafer has a tiny spring that sits under it that'll never be found again if you drop it! 

P.S. definitely replace the seals but be super careful with boot lock seal when refitting as they're really tight and can take paint off when pushing them through. 

 Black 1984 MK1 Golf GTI Campaign.

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Door lock help

Thanks for all the info. Since dismantling the handle and lock it does operate better. However still play between the mechanism meaning the little spring isn’t snug, meaning that it may not push the barrel back to neutral at some point.

Separate question. The plastic film that sits in the door under the door card. Want to save these as I’m sure they do a job at keeping the damp away from the door cards. Any good suggestion for replacement as they seem a bit raggedy. Double sided sticky tape and some new smear plastic cut to shape?


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Bawbag said

Thanks for all the info. Since dismantling the handle and lock it does operate better. However still play between the mechanism meaning the little spring isn’t snug, meaning that it may not push the barrel back to neutral at some point.

Separate question. The plastic film that sits in the door under the door card. Want to save these as I’m sure they do a job at keeping the damp away from the door cards. Any good suggestion for replacement as they seem a bit raggedy. Double sided sticky tape and some new smear plastic cut to shape?


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Seeing as its not seen I've used old polythene sheet that a new bed was delivered in, taped to the door!

If you don't have anythng like that to hand, DIY places sell sheeting that is perfect.

1983 Mars Red 1.8 Golf GTI
1987 Alpine White 1.8 Clipper Cabriolet

The trouble with doing nothing is that you never know when you are finished.

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Cheap shower curtains from the "Dollar Tree" has served me well over the years.  You  can use Polyurethane rope caulk or Metal Duct tape to hold it in position.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?
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