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Crankshaft sprocket removal?? 1983 Campaign 1800 DX

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How do I remove the crankshaft sprocket

Howdy folks,

Whilst in the process of carrying out a cambelt change.Two of my bolt threads on my crankshaft sprocket have completely stripped. I have spare still fitted on another engine sitting in my garage which looks like the threads are okay.

Does anyone know how to remove the crankshaft sprocket?

Does it have a woodruff key and if so how do you remove it?


Thanks

Mulls

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According to the Haynes manual it is "keyed" so you'd need a puller.

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Take the main bolt out in the middle then a couple of taps on the pulley and a wiggle.

Leave the Pulley attached.

You can buy them new/used, and you can have them heli-coiled or re-threaded.

Be sure you use a torque wrench and never-seize on the bolts,  you usually won't have that issue again.

Also going back the main bolt has two styles 6pt, and 12pt.  DO NOT CONFUSE THE TORQUE for the BOLTS.

12pt is @ 60 ft/lbs the 6pt is @ 110 lbs, and over torquing the 12pt will drive it to bottom out in the crank and bend, then when you go to remove it it will strip the crank, which will have to be replaced.  Ask me how I know… The POS of my Car did that very same thing.


Took 400PSI to get it out at the Machine shop…. so I could save the seal  carrier and I had to drop the Crank out with the Seal carriers attached… Wasn't fun. Then I had to find a new crank.

What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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If you have removed the cam belt then getting the main crank sprocket bolt out will be tricky.
Make a mark on the sprocket and on the block so you know the alignment.
You need to stick it gear and chock the wheels, you want the engine to turn over as little as possible - I'm pretty sure that the pistons can't hit the valves, but it's not worth the risk. Once the bolt is out, give the sprocket a few gentle taps and it will slide off - the woodruff key should stay in the crank. If you have an air impact wrench it's a lot easier as that doesn't have the tendency to turn the engine.

My rebuild thread I will try and keep up to date: here

K-Jet fuel pressure test guage How-To

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If it is a Gasser, it is a non-interference engine, the 16v not so.

here is a broken timing belt.


What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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Hi,

I have seen a few you tube videos where people have started/cranked the engine for few seconds and
used a breaker bar or torque wrench to spin and unloosen the bolt. Could this method work on the MK1 1800 DX engine?

I can't seem to find anyone local and mobile with a high pressure air gun.

Thanks

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They make a Electric Torque wrench, I bought mine on sale at a shop 40 bucks,  Snap-on has a battery powered one that is the "bomb" but it is pricey…

Yes you can use a socket and a breaker bar against the ground then bump your starter to get it loose.

I have done it, but I used 2 people, me on the braker bar to firmly hold it in place on the crank, and the ground.

The second person just bumped the starter switch for me.  



What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?

They all start with GOOD Grounds.

Where are my DIY Links?

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ideally get or make a tool which bolts from the block to the crank sprocket to hold it still, then crack it. use the tool to tighten the new one on (new bolt too) this prevents risk of any stress on the crank keyway

Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.



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