CRANK PULLEY WONT STAY STILL *pics included*

Would these tools lock my crankshaft sprocket in place. If not how would I lock it. Is there any special tool I can buy? 

I have never needed to lock my Crank down ever.
When you are setting the timing, you get the crank and the cam in time, then you can spin the intermediate shaft it align the Dizzy.  

Now you want as much slack in the belt at the tensioner side.  That way when you tighten it you will not have the sway that you may have had prior.  1/2 twist is all you need on the belt between the Intermediate shaft and the cam.  

Don't manhandle take it slow and easy….you will get there..

If you don't want the Crank to move, Stick the car in gear once it is set.

I have got the funniest sinking feeling that the crank sprocket is on slightly wrong woodruff key wise, I removed every pulley some time ago now to replace the oil seals behind the crank, intermediate shaft and cam.. every time I tension the belt.. it moves 😂 My plastic cover marks are slightly off.. however the mark in the bell housing is right when the cam mark is in place.. I was thinking of removing the crank pulley bolt and replacing it.. again. But correctly, the last time I removed this bolt I jammed a hammer in the crank itself with the sump off but I can't do that this time lol

You could try the starter bump method.

Take a 12pt, or 6pt depending on your bolt
A Deep well is keen, but a 2" 1/2 inch drive works as well .
Take a 36" breaker bar Brace it to the back of the engine and firmly against the ground,  then Bump the starter, or push the car forward.

bump the starter/ breaker bar at crank sprocket bolt | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum

If the Tranny is out,

Thanks broke.

The pn for the correct woodruff key is N0127082 should be 4X5 according to the etka.

I actually looked at a crank sprocket myself and it seemed that it's slotted so I couldn't have put it on wrong could I? Surely!? Hahahaha 

I wonder if it could just be the way I'm tensioning the belt maybe as aforementioned? 

Is it the photo or me but it doesn't look like one of the edges of the crank is rounded?

I see no Scaring to indicate rub wear.  

Take your time timing it, I know it is a royal PITA up and down… but don't try to align the intermediate shaft pulleys….

Put the Crank at zero.
You can has a dimple on the back (90's do) and make it even with the Valve cover tin not the re-bar, and not the plastic timing belt mark, remove it so you can get a good eye on the dimple.

Rotate the intermediate shaft to center the diz's rotor in the hash stamped on the diz side frame it will point ot number one wire. When you can take the rotor off to see the hash, you can scribe the plastic dust shield with a mark so you don't have to keep removing it.  

Then once all the marks are aligned and the tensioner is loose, put the belt on with the slack to the tensioner side
Then carefully really carefully tighten the tensioner.
If all the marks move the same amount, then ever so carefully back the marks with the crank to verify that they are still in align.

Granted one will look like it moved a lot because it is smaller and one will be half that and the other half that.