Couple of Quick Q's re: dipstick and coolant sensor
Posted
#1614418
(In Topic #220536)
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Going to be doing a few things today and have a couple of random questions,
First one, I have this dipstick. Will this be giving an accurate reading as it sits or do I need to buy a new one?
Second is I seem to have a coolant leak around the coolant temperature sensor. Is there a seal or anything or sealant I need to use?
Thanks
First one, I have this dipstick. Will this be giving an accurate reading as it sits or do I need to buy a new one?
Second is I seem to have a coolant leak around the coolant temperature sensor. Is there a seal or anything or sealant I need to use?
Thanks
Posted
Old Timer
you nehttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mk1-Mk2-golf-dipstick-guide-tube/252803430557?hash=item3adc42389d:g:SQEAAOSw4CFYwAGs&frcectupt=trueed a new plastic guide for the dipstick
and a fan switch washer but not sure if available separately from the switch
https://www.vwheritage.com/191959481c-radiator-3-pin-fan-switch-inc-seal-95-84102-91c-vw-spare
and a fan switch washer but not sure if available separately from the switch
https://www.vwheritage.com/191959481c-radiator-3-pin-fan-switch-inc-seal-95-84102-91c-vw-spare
Posted
Settled In
Will I need a different dipstick also or will the original work with the guide? Was there a guide originally?
I'll get a new fan switch.
Going to replace all the coolant hoses at the same time as more leaks are becoming visible the more I look.
I'll get a new fan switch.
Going to replace all the coolant hoses at the same time as more leaks are becoming visible the more I look.
Posted
Settled In
IS there a way to get coolant hoses to seal properly or do they just need replacing over time? I've got several small leaks from the end of hoses and have done the jubilees up as much as possible.
Posted
Settled In
I think the cause of my leaks may be the pitting on this part. I have wired wheeled them in these pictures but they still show pitting:
Im going to try and smooth them down with some sandpaper and hope this gets a better seal.
If not, do I replace the pipes or this part with the pitting?
Im going to try and smooth them down with some sandpaper and hope this gets a better seal.
If not, do I replace the pipes or this part with the pitting?
Posted
Local Hero
If you have deep pitting, then you can clean the area, and use JB-Weld Full Strength to fill in the pits sand smooth.
I prefer the Springy Clips for my Radiator, and I use a fuel hose clamp on the over flow. The issue with the Screw type clamp is that on smaller diameters it seals in a oblong and not a true round. I have seen the screw clamps with the fingers under the clamp not running flush with the clamp as well which causes the hose to pucker.
I prefer the Springy Clips for my Radiator, and I use a fuel hose clamp on the over flow. The issue with the Screw type clamp is that on smaller diameters it seals in a oblong and not a true round. I have seen the screw clamps with the fingers under the clamp not running flush with the clamp as well which causes the hose to pucker.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
Cheers, Im thinking that was another issue. They're good jubilees but as you say, they start to twist. I was looking at getting some of these to replace them:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIKALOR-32-35MM-HEAVY-DUTY-COOLANT-WATER-HOSE-CLAMP-CLIP-MLR-KX/122642862910?epid=1843855127&hash=item1c8e15933e:g:cSMAAOSwc49Y7gaC
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIKALOR-32-35MM-HEAVY-DUTY-COOLANT-WATER-HOSE-CLAMP-CLIP-MLR-KX/122642862910?epid=1843855127&hash=item1c8e15933e:g:cSMAAOSwc49Y7gaC
Posted
Local Hero
Those are better than the Screw type.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Regional Host NE
strange as it may seem why did
other car manufacters use jubilee
clips as opossed to spring steel type
other car manufacters use jubilee
clips as opossed to spring steel type
Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
Posted
Regional Host NE
not to sure but the normal
pressure should be 1 bar if the engine is forcing water
from hose joints it is exceeding
1 .5 bar
pressure should be 1 bar if the engine is forcing water
from hose joints it is exceeding
1 .5 bar
Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
Posted
Local Hero
nicci21paul said
not to sure but the normal
pressure should be 1 bar if the engine is forcing water
from hose joints it is exceeding
1 .5 bar
14.5psi is normal for the cooling system, so you may want to flush and back flush the system, if the t-stat is old you may want to replace that as well.
The Screw-type originally in the late 60's was a step up to the older spring type, and everybody raved on them.
The issue is that if your car is hot, then they squeeze ok, but when the car cools they need to be re-tightened to eliminate cold seal gap, the bottom of the screw part is supposed to lay roundish to the clamp and Circularly Hold the hose but I have found that most aren't manufactured and the bottom is elliptical and not curved for the hose so the hose will not seal flat to the flange. Specially on smaller diameters. The VW re-designed the Spring clamps to be better and they work far superior to the screw type.
Yes they can be the dickens to get to as if the POS (previous owners serviceman) placed them on from the bottom or the top…But they seal when hot and seal when colder. I actually prefer them yep stupid as that seems.
The screw ones can wear a flat area in the flange and leak when you reposition them, or they can cut the hose.
You clean all the garbage off the flange, and polish it, fill in the deep pits with "JB-Weld Full Strength" then allow that to cure for 24 hours, and sand smooth…That shoudl last a good while, I also spread a thin coat of Never-seize on the inside of the hose to prevent it from "Sticking" to the flange. Always cut the hose off of plastic bits, and I have had the Screw type break plastic hose connections on older radiators and plastic flanges…
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Regional Host NE
so 14.5 psi is 1 bar which allows
a pressurised system to boil at
113-120 centigrade is that correct
i am not 100 percent sure advice
appreciated
a pressurised system to boil at
113-120 centigrade is that correct
i am not 100 percent sure advice
appreciated
Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
Posted
Regional Host NE
getting back to the original post
water dripping from various hose
connections where are they actually
leaking from one or various spot on the
engine or different places
water dripping from various hose
connections where are they actually
leaking from one or various spot on the
engine or different places
Do not know a lot but willing to help if possible
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
1989 Sapphire Blue Mk1 Cabriolet KR
1985 Atlas Grey Mk2 GTI 2.0 ABF
Posted
Local Hero
If you have a way to air pressurize your cooling system, then you take it to 14.5 psi (a radiator cap that you can pressurize). If you have a leak int he cooling system as in a bad gasket or what ever, it should drip. A running car will never usually go above 14.5 psi as the radiator caps or Expansion caps are usually rated at that.
What do Divorces, Great Coffee, and Car Electrics all have in common?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
They all start with GOOD Grounds.
Where are my DIY Links?
Posted
Settled In
I've bought a load of hoses and clamps now. Have also rubbed down to remove most of the pitting. Some is really bad so may have to use some liquid metal on it.
As for the dipstick, is it not reading correct without the guide suggested or do I need a different dipstick with the guide? It's reading full on the dipstick but sure I've not put a lot in.
As for the dipstick, is it not reading correct without the guide suggested or do I need a different dipstick with the guide? It's reading full on the dipstick but sure I've not put a lot in.
Posted
Local Hero
What year is your car?
Early cars upto 1984ish had that type of dipstick.
looks like someone has wrapped tape around it so remove the tape.
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=classifieds%2Fparts-wanted_2%2Fmk1-golf-gti-oil
Early cars upto 1984ish had that type of dipstick.
looks like someone has wrapped tape around it so remove the tape.
https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.php?page=topicview&id=classifieds%2Fparts-wanted_2%2Fmk1-golf-gti-oil
Last edit: by mark1gls
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Settled In
Mines an 85. The plastic doesn't have tape. It's a little cracked but just wondering if there should be a plastic guide like suggested with this type of dipstick
Posted
Local Hero
Couple of Quick Q's re: dipstick and coolant sensor
Yes you still need the orange plastic guide with that type of dip stick.
Here’s mine on a 1984 engine.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here’s mine on a 1984 engine.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1988 Mk1 Golf GTi Cabriolet 1.8cc DX, K-jet. Daily drive. 317,000 miles and counting
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
1978 Mk1 Scirocco GLS 1.6cc FR, Webber carb. Weekend toy.
Posted
Old Timer
Overpresssure is highly unlikely unless you have a failed compression seal and a failed expansion cap! Be careful about pressuring the coolant system if you don't know exactly what you are doing because you can cause considerable damage.
The plastic guides always break down over time and you do need them.
Have you just given the engine an oil change? If you have then you should know exactly how much went back, and if you haven't do one anyway, she will thank you for it
Then when you have the new guide in place you will know for sure.
An oil level reading without a fitted guide is at least 1.5 litres to little !
The plastic guides always break down over time and you do need them.
Have you just given the engine an oil change? If you have then you should know exactly how much went back, and if you haven't do one anyway, she will thank you for it
Then when you have the new guide in place you will know for sure.
An oil level reading without a fitted guide is at least 1.5 litres to little !
Do it once and do it right! ok, we've identified the problem, lets not make it worse by guessing……… Identifying the sympton is not the same as understanding the cause
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