Can anyone help

Hi everyone sorry dident make it to AGM I hope that the weather was good and you had a blast I had my 4 children all with chickenpox so I was busy can anyone help me please photos attached of front suspension mounts can anyone tell me what's happened

That mount, in fact both need replacing. Could be old age, poorly made pattern part, hit too many pot holes or stiff suspension, or a combination..

Thanks mate it is on coilovers so it's quite stiff but I've only owned it since March and I'm replacing bits as and when what do I need do you have a link ? Regards dean

I have no idea which is the best make but if you support the clubs sponsors and look on the left side, crazy quiff, classic vw or vw heritage for example should be able to sort you out..

No worries thankyou

Go for Meyle

https://www.classic-vw.co.uk/mk1-golf-suspension-top-mount-171412329a-meyle-jetta-caddy-scirocco-17565-p.asp

Thankyou

Avoid Topran.  I got a set of these and sent them back due to obvious poor quality out of the box.

Personally I would go with Febi Bilstein as a standard replacement.

Thanks for the info I was looking at febi or meyle cheers dean

If you want to make them last a wee bit longer.

I tried Meyle top mounts on both my cars and they was rubbish, one set on my Mk1 Scirocco started to separate after 2 months and I had only drive about 10 miles in that time, the other set on my Mk1 Golf lasted about a year before they was looking like yours in the second picture.

I've always used Febi mounts but they have got worse over the years, I get about 2-3 years 20,000- 30,000 miles out of a set (cars a daily drive) before I need to change them.

Thanks briano but I don't have a welder ..Mark 1 I'm surprised by that I was lead to believe that meyle parts were above oem quality ?? I'm still looking actually for them I've had the front brakes upgraded and I'm just adding goodridge stainless brake lines and getting the back brakes done .these lovely mk1s are a Labour of love spent nearly 2 grand on it since March this year .if febi are no good Mark1 where do we go next ??

I know that I got a set of Meyle for my Green Rabbit, and once lowered back to the ground they were at the same height that the old ones were….

So speed forward, I also learned that as I was tightening one of the nuts on the stud the pressed stud spun in the mount.  It wasn't even fully on…. I wormed my wire welder up the strut tube, and Zapped the Stud to remove it, and take it down to Tack weld the other side as well.

Learned about the Quality of different mounts FEBI seems to be the better of the two.  But I also learned the Trick of the Goo in the Crack at the Bottom.  The only trick to the 3m Window Weld is that you have to let it set up for a week and a half.

The last set of mounts I bought had a LLW on them from my Parts Vendor…. but I still Tack Welded the studs, and Goo-bered the bottoms.

Had exactly the same problem with mine when i bought the Topran ones from VWH but not as drastic as yours and i only had them on a week.
Sent them back and got some Febi ones which haven't let me down yet.
If you decide to go down the Febi route don't forget to fit the spacers that come with the kit that fit inside and sit on the bearing.

Goo-bered mount after 3 years and 30K

Thanks briano..Just want to know do I need to replace the bearings as well vw heritage do a kit with a bump stop and strut etc does anyone know if they are febi .also garage wants £70 surely with some spring compressors it can be done in my garage I assume all you experienced gents do your own ??

And thanks marcsa 3

Deano777 said

Thanks briano..Just want to know do I need to replace the bearings as well vw heritage do a kit with a bump stop and strut etc does anyone know if they are febi .also garage wants £70 surely with some spring compressors it can be done in my garage I assume all you experienced gents do your own ??

If they are bad then replace the bumpstops.

I can do the struts on my car in about 45 minutes a side, but I have done them a few times… I have a how to in the archive section. 30 minutes to get the car and tools lined up.

But there are 2 ways to do it.  1 was screws up your alignment which I show in the how do I do that.

The second way is easier and you don't mess your alignment.

Wheels on the ground hub covers off.  Using a breaker bar or impact loosen the Axle Nut.

Jack the car and place jack stands under it.

Remove the tire
Remove the nut on the axle.

Remove your caliper carrier and caliper use a wire and hang it from the brake line holder. 2 17mm bolts

Loosen and remove  the outer tie-rod.

Loosen and remove the pinch bolt that holds the lower strut to the ball joint and separate the ball joint from the
Strut.  

Remove the 2 nuts holding the strut mount to the strut tower.

Wiggle the axle out of it and have at replacing the cartridge.  

Pry the Bump Stop down.

Clamp a circular pair of vice-grips as tight as you can at the upper part of the Strut piston, use it against the ground and loosen but do not remove the upper strut nut.

Place spring compressors on the spring and compress it equally 5 turns one side 5 the other.

Once you see the spring loose its force on the perch and  you can insert a flat blade easily between the spring and the upper mount you can safely remove the nut from the strut.

Easy peasy.

But 70 per side or both, as that is fairly cheap…..that is if you are going to do the mounts, might as well do the cartridges as well.

No problem. Didn't you say it had coilovers fitted??

Thanks briano for the step by step ,,and yes marcsa3 it has coilovers on it's quite low