audio cable terminal sleeve question

so ive almost finished my audio install however trying to find the correct name for the terminal/ferrule i need for the 2/4 awg cable…

bare with me as i try to explain…

the part im after crimps around the end of your power/ground cable once stripped

it then allows you to put the cable end into the distro block (or amp depending if you have screw type or allen key type connections)

looks like below however they have a hole in the top for the amp/distribution block terminal to screw into cable yet still have cable end crimped

i do have one at home to take a pic of but im at work, will update if no one can help

No those are Ferrules that clamp around the Cable
You want something like:

Battery Cable Ends, Lugs, Ring Terminals, Connectors, Tin Plated Pure Copper

These allow you to terminate the bare wire, (heat shrink over bare wires after), and screw the cables to a Distribution block or Earth point.  

Hope it helps, you may also want to Soder the connection after Crimping, and then use a good crimper that Bites the middle or compresses the end on to the cable

bri ive got some lugs, these things make a better connection inside the terminal, ill get a pic later to show you

it stops the 'stray' wires

I see, you are going to use them to Crimp the wire ends into a massive bundle which is what they are designed for, then you also need a Circular Crimper.  

You are going to insert bare wire in to the Ferrule, then Crimp the Ferrule tight.

The ferrule ended cable will be inserted in to your Distribution block.

I would still suggest that what ever is sticking out of the block have heat shrink on it, and that after the crimping you solder the cable to it, this will ensure that the connection is Tight, Unable to be Pulled out, and prevents Corrosion.

You will still get differential metal corrosion, or electrolysis between a Copper wire, and the Steel Ferrule, but using a Copper Ferrule will reduce that.

and I suspect that your Distribution block has steel Allens or bolts to tighten or "Pinch" the wires, and that too will eventually cause the Same Electrolysis…Sadly a side effect of differential metals being joined…may take 10-20 years, but well nothing you can do about it.  

I will tell you after wiring AirCraft, Cars, and thousands of Crimp/Solder connections, the ones that were soldered after never usually failed.  In fact on most aircraft repairs the "manual" stated after using a specific crimp tool to bind the end to the cable, you had to also solder it.  I really hated wiring jobs on Cockpits where you had to bend upside down to effect repair… not only that but you had to surgically slice the potting material off the wires to get to the specific wire, and the 100/50 pin cannon plugs never failed to have the broken wire in the middle of the bundle.

These are the little bad boys