1.8 clipper - engine issues

Hi everyone, have inherited a clipper that hasnt been on the road for about 10 years. Carried out core plug change as was leaking coolant when I filled it, bone dry when I got it. Managed to push my finger through a very rusty plug!

now when it’s running won’t drop below, 2000 rpm, plus smoking with fuel smell, over running to where I have to stall it to stop the engine, also radiator fan cut in but temp gauge not showing any temp reading.

It’s running the 2e2 carb. I’m going to check the timing but suspect the issues are carb related. Might have to get a Weber replacement. Read the 2e2 are troublesome.

any suggestions?

reving its nuts off at 2000-3000+ rpm until warm is a 2E2 speciality. Google pull down units, waxstats and 3/4 point unit

When warm should drop to normal idle however.

Is the petrol fresh?

The temp gauage could be just a lose wire or failed sender, are the rest of the gauages working?

There’s a braided earth strap that goes from the rocker cover to the coil bracket mounting bolt. That earths the clocks so it’s often left off after engine works.
Unplug the temp sensor and put a paper clip across the plug contacts the needle should move this rules out the gauge itself.
When buying sensors always buy Genuine from the Dealers.
I’ve seen lots of cars with issues because they have an aftermarket sensor fitted,
One guy spent lots of money on spare clocks because the garage told him they’d fitted a new temp sensor and it’s the clocks that are faulty.

But there’s also a guide on here on setting up the 2e2.
The wax stat from memory itself was £90 odd last time I looked for one.


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I had this trouble once,  I replaced the carb to manifold rubber which was split, the pull down unit which was under £10, and "re-set" the wax stat.

The engine ticked over sweetly after that.

Oh yea, and replaced all the vac pipes...

I've given up on the 2e2 and got Weber arriving today. Upon inspection the butterfly was bent?? Some hooligan had a go at the carb, maybe in an attempt to get it running better. The flange was actually ok but I've ordered a new one anyway, Sod's law and all….

Once I get it running the next question is upgrade routes. I read a lot about 2 litre upgrades, but mostly these seem related to upgrading gti's. Not 1.8 carb lumps. Any suggestions on how to squeeze some additional ponies, be nice to get it to little bit over 100, so could probably slap a sports exhaust and new intake on? Is there a 2 litre straight replacement carb'd engine option? I assume trying to stick an injected lump in is a Pandora’s box of loom and engine management nightmares.

The new carb should make it run and feel a bit faster.

It's a cabrio and more about show than go, having said that compared to days cars it only weighs around 950kg and has 90hp so it's not slow.

Unless messing with cars is an hobby I'd just get a GTI version and save yourself all the hassle for an extra 10hp that you are looking for.
 

Early-1800 said

The new carb should make it run and feel a bit faster.

It's a cabrio and more about show than go, having said that compared to days cars it only weighs around 950kg and has 90hp so it's not slow.

Unless messing with cars is an hobby I'd just get a GTI version and save yourself all the hassle for an extra 10hp that you are looking for.

It's a family heir loom, been with us for 27 years or yes I might just Chuck it in for a gti. Think intake might be good idea with a new exhaust for bit of better breathing. Any recommendations on an intake, I can only find universal? I’m not an expert in engines so maybe I don’t need an intake, any suggestions gratefully received :-)

I'm not 100% sure as not up on what's inside the 1.8 carb engine but a GTi cam shaft should help as I think the carb cars have a milder cam compared to the GTi?

With upgrading the intake it's best to fit a upgraded air filter like a K & N panel filter which sits inside the original air box, if you lose the air box and fit a filter directly onto the carb you don't get the cold air into the carb as it sits on top of the hot exhaust manifold at the back of the engine, you may also get carb icing in the winter as you lose the hot air feed.

Exhaust may help if you don't go to big but best to get a 4,2,1 exhaust manifold or an early style 6 bolt exhaust manifold as the later toilet bowl type manifold restrict the flow of exhaust gases.

Get your engine re bored and head re worked but it's expensive…

I guess it's how deep your pockets are?

I would say get it running sweetly then drive it for a year, you'll find other niggles and bits that need sorting out that will soon eat up the cash reserves!

Regarding upgraded exhaust manifolds be careful as most 'cheaper' 4-2-1s are designed for LHD cars and are incredibly tight against RHD steering stuff. Mine doesn't have enough clearance and it's a bit of a pain.

Power-wise  I find my carb-d (Weber) Clipper to be plenty fun - can chuck it around and keeps up reasonably well with 'modern' traffic. It's no Golf R but it brings a smile every time I take it out.

IMO the main thing is enjoying driving the car - good luck and welcome  

So car running a dream now! The problem ended up being cam timing out by 3 teeth!? Plus needed the Weber jets changing.

Took it on rolling road at Atspeed racing in Essex, spent 3 hours going over the whole engine. It's now chucking out 88hp, not bad for a 30 year old engine with 130k miles. Money very well spent imho. Not in a million years would I have got it running properly without it.

Oh and if you do what I did and buy a Weber from eBay get the jets checked, as the guys told me when Weber spec’d the jets it was a long time back when fuel was different and 9 times out of 10 they will need changing. These guys are Weber workshop so know their onions and had all the jets in stock.

now mechanics all running nicely it’s time for paint! Goes into paint shop next week, very exciting!