1.8 8v Gti running issues

Hey guys, in desperate need of some help. I have a 1989 Mk1 Cabrio 1.8 Gti 8v (DX) and it's spluttering like hell when the accelorator pedal is gently applied at any speed and revs, however when it's being given the full beans, the stuttering (or misfire?) is non existent.

Now for a little history. I replaced the original engine with a fully reconditioned one from The Engine Shop based out of Essex a few years back. Though I didn't run it at all for a few years due to issues at home.  I've since changed all water hoses, new tappets as the ones the engine came with were knocking, it's had several trips to my local garage to get the timing and fuel/air mix sorted as recently as last week. I've also changed,
radiator,
fuel filter twice,
oil and oil filter twice,
new fuel lines,
new oil cooler,
new distributor,
new aux air valve,
new HT Leads,
new alternator,
new spark plugs,
new Idle control valve (screw),
new injector 'O' rings

I've changed a few more bits on it, but can't recall everything. It also struggles to start from cold and runs lumpy until warm. My grandfather who's an old grease monkey seems to think it could be the cold start regulator so I'm currently trying to source a working one to eliminate that. I took the car for a good 50 mile run the other day, but this didn't seem to help and I've put nothing but 97 super unleaded in the tank.

Finally, I've discussed the prospect of changing the injectors with the mechanic I use but he seemed satisfied that's not the issue. I trust him as my cousin works at the garage, but I do intend getting new injectors in the future anyway as they are original.

If anyone has any idea's, or has experienced similar issues, please let me know. Thanks in advance.

Warm up regulator??


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sorry, warm up valve. I've seen it referred to as a regulator a few places.

RyanLlew

Take a look at rubjonnys guide if you haven't already;

http://www.vwgolfmk2.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=25972

It's for the 16v but just ignore the 16v specific parts.

It covers the basics but it's surprising how often the simple can be overlooked or forgotten. I like to think I know what I'm doing, but have used this with success in the past.

I'd also check if all vacuum lines are correctly connected and not split.

Where in Wales are you? Maybe there's someone on your doorstep who can help?

RyanLlew said

sorry, warm up valve. I've seen it referred to as a regulator a few places.

I meant have you replaced the WUR? I didn't see you mention that in your post . I had similar symptoms and replacing the WUR fixed mine.



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It's surprising what an effect the WUR has on the running of your car… i had similar issues, when starting the car it was buurrr burrr when trying to pull off, had to clutch it give it revs then it would be ok - would be for the 1st 20-30 seconds then it would be fine… felt that it was holding back though, when on a run it would have the slightest miss now & again.. so frustrating!! I even changed the 5th injector (cold start valve) Took off the Meter head, cleaned that out with CRC spray - not injection cleaner, apparently leaves a slightly sticky residue, but does pretty much everything else. Surprising how much carbon can build up in & around the pressure plate… changed the gasket between the air box & meter head & the o'ring - worth checking if it's lose then change it, cleaned around there too, cleaned the air box out, injection spray throughout the hoses etc around the rocker cover, checked the hoses for leaks too..
I tried/tested/renewed a lot of things & it turned out my WUR was the culprit (then finally tuned when i got the everything in order) it's a big player in the fuel management for your car as there's a bimetallic strip which controls the pressure (more or less fuel) to your injectors when it's hot & cold etc. There's also the PPR on the side of Fuel Distributor  - the small shim rings & rubber can sometimes be worn…
 took my WUR off it was fluffed! too it apart, it was dirty where some kind of liquid, be it rain water or out of the car, had got into it.. there was build up of cr4p in it & the seal was brittle - knackered basically. They are supposed to be spotless… i took it apart, cleaned it, replaced the seal - bought a bespoke strip of viton rubber 2x3x300 - had to cut a small piece off to fit then glue as a whole. There's also small gauzes on the front of the WUR 1 inlet & 1 outlet, these can deposit debris & are very brittle, advise not to poke these with anything, break them & it's asta la vista baby! i used injection spray as it had a small white connector to go on the spray head.. job done.. there's repair kits you can buy for about £50 or there are people who repair them - for about £200!!! or you can buy a 2nd hand one… once i got this sorted & after a lot of work it's running great & mpg is good too!










 

p.s. forgot to mention that the WUR was tested electronically & it appeared fine - until i took it off & apart as you can see… disconnect the battery too if you take it off. 

awesome, thanks guys. Funnily enough, in the past few days my grandad and I (he's been a mechanic for 50+ years) decided that the WUR was the most likely culprit. Having you guys pretty much confirm it is a step closer to solving the problem.

I have tried to source a working second hand one and like you said, to get one refurbished i found a company that will do it for about £182 with a 4 week lead time?!

One thing I forgot to mention is that my fuel tank did have a lot of that particles in it when unchanged the fuel filler neck. Cleaned it as best I could but I noted last night that the fuel pump in the tank is missing it's small filter. I may have to blow back the fuel lines from the fuel filter just to be safe.

Thanks again for all.your advice guys. I'll let you know how I get in.

Oh, I live in Glynneath in the Neath Valley. Near Swansea.

Yes fit the filter back on the lift pump, I don't think you will be able to blow back down the fuel lines from the fuel filter as there is an accumulator in the way which holds the fuel pressure in the system to help with starting the car from warm.

I also try not to let my fuel go below 1/4 tank as you start to run the risk of sucking up the dregs from the tank.

Filter in the tank looks like this and just pushes on to the lift pump.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK1-CABRIOLET-MK2-GTI-8v-16v-FUEL-PUMP-LIFT-PUMP-IN-TANK-C246-/200691149226?fits=Model%3AGolf&hash=item2eba1fe9aa:g:VV4AAOSwMzVTw6~7

Not sure where you can buy just the filter? VW heritage maybe???

While you are in the fuel tank get a magnet to do a bit more fishing around for rusty partials the clean the magnet off and drop it into the fuel tank then it will continue to collect any more rusty metal.

You can see my magnet left in the tank, just make sure the magnet is no where near the fuel gauge float as you don't what that sticking to the magnet!



My lift pump and filter.


   

I did the magnet trick originally, but I didn't leave one in the tank. Genius hack that!

And thanks for the advice about the accumulator. I didn't realise that was there. That could have been more cost if I'd damaged that.

I have tried looking for the filter only, as mine has literally vanished. I don't think it's in the tank either. Just can't find out anywhere. I might just buy a new pump for £20odd with the filter and piece of mind.

Thanks again for your help. I'm desperate to get this thing sorted.

I have seen pumps for sale without a filter so perhaps some one who owned the car before you fitted one of those pumps?
I'ts handy to have a spare as I've found the pumps only seem to last a few years.

Don't forget the change your main fuel filter (in the engine bay) at least every 40,000 miles or 4 years, I change mine every 2 years or 20,000 miles as I have the original fuel tank and it's cheaper to change a fuel filter than replace worn injectors.  

Hi, I have a spare WUR, its from a 16v but will work fine on an 8v, I ran one on mine for a number of years with no issue, and actually improved performance. You just need to link the extra vacuum up which is really easy to do. Send me a PM if your interested.

When you go to replace the Pump and filter. Replace the connection hose if it is still original to the car, they rot, hole and leak.

Heads up tip 1/2 to 3/4 of a tank before you remove the cover.

Heads up to keep the strainer / filter on the pump as you lower it.

Use about 3 foot of Masons String.
to tie the filter to the assemble, when you have it in. snip the string and gently pull it off, but remember to pull the knotted side.  

thanks for that, i'll make sure to do that. I don't want any more problems. I've literally just bought a new pump with the filter from Ebay, a Topran one, it's due next week so updates will follow. Thanks again.

I've had my lift pump in and out many times and never had any problems with the filter coming off, it's usually a pretty tight fit, just make sure to don't catch it on the edge of tank hole when you pull the whole unit out, it's a bit of an art getting every thing out of such a small hole.

sorry for then late reply. That all sounds fair to me.
I know my WUR definitely isn't working, but whether or not that will completely solve my problems is something else. I hope it at least improves the running of the engine. These WUR are becoming harder to get hold of, much like any other ancillary part from that era.

Anyway, I've literally just sent £50 to you via PayPal using the hotmail address you sent me. Can you please confirm when you've had it? This is actually the first time I've paid an individual using the PayPal app.

Just in case PayPal don't forward you my details, my address is;
REMOVED BY MOD

Thanks again.

Hi, yes looks like the paypal came through. I've wrapped up the WUR ready and I'll get to this into the post for you on Wednesday, hope it fixes your problem.

RyanLlew said

sorry for then late reply. That all sounds fair to me.
I know my WUR definitely isn't working, but whether or not that will completely solve my problems is something else. I hope it at least improves the running of the engine. These WUR are becoming harder to get hold of, much like any other ancillary part from that era.

Anyway, I've literally just sent £50 to you via PayPal using the hotmail address you sent me. Can you please confirm when you've had it? This is actually the first time I've paid an individual using the PayPal app.

Just in case PayPal don't forward you my details, my address is;
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Thanks again.

FYI - I would edit your post above and take off your address as it's up on a public forum which anyone can read.
Best to private message the seller you address or e-mail, there is a send message tab on the bottom of the posts which if you click on you can post a private message in the thread which you and the seller and the moderators can see or send a private message which is separate to the thread .  

Well spotted mark1gls

I've removed your address for your post RyanLlew - as Mark says, best to keep personal data of public areas  

Ryan,

Make sure the warm up regulator relay buzzes, which is located above the fuse box, as well as the fuel pump when you first attempt to crank the engine .

There should be two buzzing sounds when you turn the key-the first one will come from the rear of the car (fuel pump) priming and the second will come from under the dash where the WUR relay is located along the top of the fuse box.

If there's no buzzing coming from under the dash near the fuse box check the WU Relay along the top row of relays on the fuse box.

I had a hell of a time    with my 1993 1.8 JH engine cabrio, when it would intermittently run perfectly then next start refuse to fire or start then rev, splutter and stall.

I pulled the WUR apart and cleaned it, had the cold start valve - ( 5th injector) cleaned, pulled the tank pumps out etc etc….

Many articles have listed all sorts of remedies but it was by sure luck on the USA Cabby Co website - Trouble Shooting, one person mentioned the  warm up regulator relay.

To cut a long story short, the relay was working its way loose from the contacts/wiring on the fuse box.

This happened if I nudged the gutter when parking front in or travelled on gravel/corrugated roads.

To test the relay simply listen or touch the outside of relay whilst cranking the engine when its cold. It will vibrate/buzz if its working. If it doesn't press it in or wriggle it and try to start the car again.

I didn't know much about K-jetronic fuel injection but I do now after that experience!