‘92 Mk1 Cabby - Performance issues

Hi guys

I posted somewhere here already just I think it was the wrong place.

To get things started, I just bought my first Mk1 Golf 1.8 Carb. Having performance issues and from what I have read, it could be a number of issues. Please have a look at my engine photo and let me know what you think. Lots of work already as it’s pretty messy in there.

Thanks!


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Issues include:
Rough idle
Stalls and cuts out
Fuel seems to be getting starved
After stalling it takes a number of attempts to start, sometimes doesn’t start back again until I leave it sitting for 10 mins.


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Well looking at the photos I can see that it's been what I like to say " touched " 😆. It looks like an automatic with the original pierburg 2e2 carburettor replaced with a Weber. Has it now got a manual choke? There is going to be a lot of stuff to check to get it running A1. As for your immediate problem I would run a new fuel hose from your fuel pump straight to the carburettor bypassing the vapour separator. If this makes the car run better,  then you know it's a fuel delivery problem. Some people leave them like that or put a restrictor in the return fuel line.

Yes it’s automatic and it has a manual choke. Good to know that the choke is not original. After inspecting the carburettor I have found it just lifts right up. The rubber flange is destroyed. Would this explain the issues? I will definitely do suggest fuel line change too.

The rubber engine mount is also broken which may explain why the flange broke. I need to figure out how to remove the choke and accelerator cable in order to lift out the carburettor. Thank you so much for the help!

Would you also have any suggestions for a upgraded carburettor or is there any need?

I have ordered a new flange hopefully that will help.


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Change the rubber flange before you do anything else. That's a massive vacuum leak. See how it runs then. The Weber IS the upgrade for the carburettor, although I prefer the original pierburg. You are going to have check a lot things like I said earlier. You will find other people's bodgery that you'll have to put right.

Looks like it's been stood for a very long time in very damp conditions, even the oil filters gone rusty…..

I'd give it a good service and check fuel, vacuum and electrical connections and run it so that each and every problem shows itself and can be fixed.

I’m trying to remove this cable but it just completely twists when unscrewing the bolt. Any suggestions?


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Mk1-newbieee said

I’m trying to remove this cable but it just completely twists when unscrewing the bolt. Any suggestions?


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Why are you trying to remove it?

It looks like the speedo cable, (I'm not that well up on autoboxes). If the same as manual GBs its clamped in by the plate to the right/underneath the ali nut on your pic. EDIT: also if like manual boxes if you yank at it the plastic cog on the end falls off into the bowels of the gearbox.

2 ways that I know of if the cable is frozen to the nut.

1.
Loosen the Phillips on the cover plate that holds the speedo cable to the transmission.

Pull the whole kitten-and-caboodle out of the tranny by wiggling the cable left and right a wee bit as you pull op on it.   You then may be able to hold the speedo gear with one hand and loosen the nut off the speedo gear assembly.

2.
If your cable is froze to the nut, just keep on loosening the nut till it is off….let the cable spin on itself it will be a pita and tighten up on you just keep the nut or cable tight while you reposition your wrench

If the cable becomes too stiff, then you remove the Drivers side  Side vent, and carefully worm your arm to the rear of the speedo and "pop" the cable off the speedo.  From under the bonnet you spray wd-40 or the like on the Grommet for the speedo cable through the firewall so the cable can spin.

Thanks guys. I attempted option 2 that Briano suggested. Success!!

The carburettor is now off and attempting to remove the tattered flange.

Should I check for anything else while the carb is out? This is exciting stuff guys!!


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Anyone know how to remove the flange? I have spent all day trying to search online and have seen others speak about three bolts from the top. But I don’t see them.

Please help.


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There is an adaptor plate used with the weber conversion which may be adding to the confusion.

What, if anything, is still attached to the inlet manifold?

I see what you mean about the plate. It’s like the plate and rubber are attached but not sure…

Nothing left on manifold. (


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that looks like the remains of a mount but long time since I changed one and that was on a 1300 not 16/1800 so not sure if its the original.

The rubbers totally come away from the manifold side so buried in the rubber thats still attached to the carb should be 3 (or 4?) metal furrules that the carb fixing bolts screw into. Have a dig around with a screwdriver in to the rubber?

EDIT: this looks like yours but with the rubber still on the metal mount/manifold. Your fixings should match those you can see exposed?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfXz0E_cAdU

I see the screws you are referring to but I can only see bottom of the screw. Do I need to take apart the entire carb to get the rubber out?

Thanks for your help btw


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See if this helps, it shows the adaptor plate being fitted to the rubber mount on the inlet manifold (and everything else so you should be able to reverse the procedure)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sL7Nk8LiG2A

That was very helpful. I was able to do as your said and reverse the process.

My only issue now is I’m unable to remove the bracket for the accelerator? See photo as I’m not sure if it’s the accelerator bracket.




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Watch this vid to see how the carb goes together:

https://youtu.be/sL7Nk8LiG2A

I used it to do my conversion, very helpful. The are 4 bolts holding the flange to the carb, anyway the vid steps you through it all.

To disconnect the accelerator cable on an auto, you can slide off the tiny circlip,

but be careful as it will ping off never to be found again if you're not.