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How much work to remove and replace fuel tank & fillerne

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How much work to remove and replace fuel tank & fillerne

Okay.

So, after 6 months of rough-running and generally being crap, I finally got the carb on my GX completely renewed, and all diaphrams etc replaced.  Great stuff, thought I, and drove off - LOVE driving this little motor, makes me  :mrgreen: :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:

Gone about 6 miles, so then I filled up with petrol, and when I'm walking back from the kiosk I notice a puddle under the rear of the car - yep, it's fuel - it's leaking from somewhere - like leaking a lot, so got a tow back to the garage.  :banghead:

Mechanic's had a good look at it today and the tank is split along the manufacturer's weld - 2 options, he can weld it up, or he can drop exhaust/rearsubframe/braking system/rear axle, and then refit/replace the tank with a new one (from GSF).

As this car's had a complete engine rebuild, I'm not gonna skimp on the tanks - so went  for the new tank option - I need to know (roughly) how long this should take - assuming no problems develop.

Anyone done this before - I'm not thinking he's going to be ripping me off, as he's a trusted Mk 1 mechanic - but I need to work out how much it's gonna cost me!!

thanks - they're expensive but they're worth it - ight?  :roll:  :lol:

'83 :) Golf 1.5 GX - weekender - in pics: 1983 Mk 1 Golf GX - a set on Flickr
'88 T25 camper 2.1 - in pics: Gina the van's renovation - a set on Flickr

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Hi, the issue will be undoing the rear axle mounts and removing the rear axle. I will assume your mechanic will have much better access than I did.

Access to both the tank and the filler pipe should be generally easy after that.

It depends on how rusty the attachments bolts are. Look at page 2 & 3 of my project, I was lucky my car only has 64K on the clock.

If you have done a complete engine rebuild, you might as well get this area sorted out should any issues crop up.

Re cost, I would assume about 3-4 hrs labour plus parts.

The Mk1 Golf Owners Club

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Before going to all this work to remove the fuel tank, check the back seat and the trunk floor for an access panel for fuel tank. If the vehicle has one, you can change the pump without dropping the tank. Just skip steps ahead and cancel the plate, keeps the pump in the tank. Before unbolting the straps that hold the fuel tank in place, remove as much fuel as possible to the tank. but most are not, so you must use a hand pump to siphon the tank empty. Place the hose down the filler neck and use the hand pump to start the siphon action. Do not suck on the hose to start a siphon because the toxic gas and fumes may cause lung damage. Drain fuel into an approved container and seal the container when all fuel is drained from the tank. DO NOT allow open containers of gasoline sitting.

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You can tell that michaljetson is very focused on H&S, all good advice. However, I think plurker is not intending to do the job himself.

I am, however, a bit concerned about his mechanic suggesting he can weld the tank up !!, on the car !!.

Good decision to replace the tank.

Nice clean tank, filters and fuel lines will eliminate the running issues.

Assuming it is made from metal, remember to replace the vapouriser mounted on the front of the engine before the carb. you can get plastic ones nowadays. Previous experience proved this and internal corrosion was the cause of my running problems a few years back.

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thanks both.  

Michael - I'm sure my mechanic has the knowledge to take the necessary precautions - but many thanks for sharing.

Malcolm - thanks for the link, very informative - nice job - pictures speak volumes!  My car's only got 66,000 on her, and the engine only has 2,000 miles since rebuild - so definitely not skimping on this bit - as far as my budget allows at least!

3 to 4 hours sounds good, as it's only £45p/h labour, I was thinking it might be more than that timewise!

'83 :) Golf 1.5 GX - weekender - in pics: 1983 Mk 1 Golf GX - a set on Flickr
'88 T25 camper 2.1 - in pics: Gina the van's renovation - a set on Flickr

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Lovely job - old tank removed, all cleaned up under there, new tank in, all pipes/hoses/clips replaced - ready for collection £360 all in  :lol:

'83 :) Golf 1.5 GX - weekender - in pics: 1983 Mk 1 Golf GX - a set on Flickr
'88 T25 camper 2.1 - in pics: Gina the van's renovation - a set on Flickr

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plurker said

Lovely job - old tank removed, all cleaned up under there, new tank in, all pipes/hoses/clips replaced - ready for collection £360 all in  :lol:

I think your right on the money!

a days work for most people, about 3-4 hours work for someone who knows exactly what to do!

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Nice Information. I have read the information which you have mentioned here. And I am really very glad after Reading this Post. I was totally unknown from this. And came to know after reading your this post.

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Argh!

So, after spending £600 on the Golf in under a week, haivng the carb completely rebuilt with Weber kit, plus a new fuel tank and all hoses, filler neck etc, she was running a dream.  Did the 100 miles down m'way for Christmas without a hiccup.  

Next day, started up, ran at 3k rpm on the choke for a minute, then just cut out completely.  Every time I start it's the same, she runs for 3/4/5 mins then dies.  Loads of airbubbles coming into the inline fule filter, and back to the garage she's gone.  Can't afford this much more, I've spent more on trying to fix this issue than I bought the car for!  :(

'83 :) Golf 1.5 GX - weekender - in pics: 1983 Mk 1 Golf GX - a set on Flickr
'88 T25 camper 2.1 - in pics: Gina the van's renovation - a set on Flickr
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